Ronnie

I'm glad to hear that things are going to work out for you! You must have the best insurance in the world. I have never heard of regular insurance paying for mechanical repairs. I have a hard time getting body damage paid for. My insurance would not even consider paying for anything under the hood. Would you mind sharing the name (not local agent) of your insurance company? I would just love to have that kind of insurance. If the answer is "no" I fully understand because there might be a privacy issue to consider. Good luck with your car!

I look forward to hearing if the accumulator corrected the problem.

That's about it. I can offer a few tips that I learned while changing mine. Mine old one was really tight. There is a hole at the top for using a hex wrench (Allen wrench). I used an allen wrench along with an oil filter wrench around the body of the accumulator for a more even pull on the accumulator. The oil filter wrench was the type with a handle on it that gets tighter as you pull on the handle. I had a helper trying to hold the part in place that the accumulator screws in to. That part does not seem very sturdy when you pull hard on the accumulator trying to remove it. Be sure to put a little oil on the new O-ring to lubricate it before installing it. I didn't tighten the new accumulator nearly as tight as the old one and it didn't leak. Maybe the old one was tight from being on so many years. Good Luck!

I paid $131.00 for accumulator, including shipping. Screwed old one off and screwed new one back on in about 15 minutes. Be sure to relieve all pressure in the system before changing. Pumping the brake pedal about 30 or more times with the ignition switch OFF should do it. Ten dollars should cover the cost of brake fluid to flush the brake system, which should be done. Instructions for both operations can be found here and in the FSM. How much is your time worth?

Don't forget to check the PCV valve hose. It is hidden on the intake behind the alternator. You can't hardly see it without removing the plastic fuel rail/injector cover and looking straight down.

I had similar results with the brake test a couple of months ago and a new accumulator fixed the problem. I believe one pump on test #5 and not having 1/2 inch in test #6 is a good sign the accumulator has gone bad. Many have had good luck, including myself, with gmpartsdirect.com . Their prices are very reasonable for the part, but the shipping costs are way out of line. However, with that having been said, together the price is still not as much as a dealership.

Please share your diagnosis and repair so it might help others with a similar problem.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TommyH</div><div class="ubbcode-body">heck of I know! </div></div> Wat kinda inglish is dat!

Code B552 is caused by a disconnected battery or a dead battery. I don't think it would be related to your problem. E022, the TPS code is probably not related to lack of spark either. You need to check for RPM data supplied by the crank sensor to the ECM. The data can be read on the CRT screen in diagnostics mode, (data code E011 I believe), when the engine not running or when it is running. Unfortunately it is not possible to view E011 data when the starter is engaged and cranking the engine. The CRT goes out while trying to crank the engine. If you have access to a scan tool it will give RPM data while cranking the engine. Reading the RPM data while cranking with the starter will tell you if the crank sensor is functioning properly or not. If it were me, I would try a new crank sensor next. The crank sensor and checking for a bad connection are about the only things left for you to try.

Are you holding the "off" and "warm" buttons at the same time on the climate screen until the ECM codes display? Do that and post the ECM codes you get here.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wat kinda inglish is dat! </div></div> GROW UP!

Does the AC work normally when you at speed on the highway? Try not turning on the AC until you get up to highway speed and then turn it on. That way you are not depending on the fan to cool the AC condenser in front of the radiator. If the answer is YES, the puller fan may not be coming on when the AC comes on as it should. If the fan is not running and cooling the condenser, the compressor head pressure will get too high and cause the high pressure switch to will open and the compressor will be turned off. I suspect the puller fan is not running for some reason and causing the problem you are having.

Three things can cause ALL cylinders to suddenly stop running. 1. Incorrect fuel/air mixture. (fuel pump, ecm, sensors) 2. No spark OR spark at incorrect time. (bad crank sensor, coil pack ect.) 3. Timing chain. (jumped sprocket, broken chain) not likely. Assuming you are going to try to diagnose at work without tools: Listen to see if fuel pump is running. If not check fuses and relay. Check spark by pulling a plug wire and checking for arc while attempting to start. Timing chain will be harder to determine if it is out of time. Good Luck

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> We will then force him/her to drive a Yugo for the rest of their lives.</div></div> From what I know about Yugo's they would have a very short life.

I hope everything turns out well for you. I'm on your side. However, as an experienced mechanic, I know for a fact that there is no way a mechanic got the rag in the pump by working on the transmission only. It might be possible but very unlikely that the rag could be crammed down the oil refill hole when the oil was changed. To make it to the oil pan the rag would have to navigate past all the valve springs and rocker arms, go through the holes where the oil drains into the lifter galley and then down into the oil pan. I just don't see how it could make it all the way to the pump. I don't think they would go to all the time and trouble to take the oil pan off and put the rag in there. I don't see how the problem could be blamed on the Aamco man without having more information on what took place while the car was in for transmission repairs. If you have not owned the car very long as you allude to in previous posts I would highly suspect some type of repair might have taken place before you got the car that resulted in a rag in the oil pan. I would like to know what other mechanics here think. I hate to be negative at a time when you are looking for sympathy but I want to give you an honest opinion from an outsiders point of view. I DO NOT know anyone involved and have no interest in this other than wanting to help by giving you an honest, unbiased opinion.

What model is your car? Did you get any BCM codes on the touch screen?

I can tell you what I have used the snap shot for in the past. I've not looked at the shop manual to see what it says. Example: If you are driving down the road testing a car that has known issues, lets say it runs rough while accelerating up a long, steep hill. It is not practical to try to look at all the sensor readings while the car is in motion and the problem is occurring. However if you take a "snap shot" (record all the sensor readings at a specific point in time) while experiencing the problem, you can look at all the sensor readings that were recorded, when you return to the shop and try to determine what reading was our of range while you were accelerating up the hill that might have caused the problem. I'm sure there are other ways to use the snap shot but that is how I have used it before. Good scan tools have a snap shot type feature built into them also.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I fixed mine today and it stopped the popping and snapping. I found used but tested capacitors at a TV shop that fit perfectly without modifying the heat sink. Now I gotta find that busted speaker. What is the easiest way to get the door grills off? Anyone know? Thanks again!

Alana, Welcome to the forum. You came to the right place to get information on repairing your Reatta. There are a lot of knowledgeable people here who can assist you. I have not personally worked on the headlights but DO NOT pay $1200 to get them repaired. I would start looking for another mechanic if he quoted you that price to repair only the headlights. I believe Barney Eaton, who frequents this forum, sells kits to repair the headlights and will be willing to offer you help with the installation. "Intake valve kind of stuff" sounds a little more like a bigger job than most people without experience are willing to tackle. (I assume you mean doing a complete "valve job", grinding the valves ect). It can be done with the proper tools and guidance if you are willing to try it. Good luck with your car!!

Make her wear a seat belt like the rest of us.

I'm willing to help when it gives a problem.

I found a thread that said the instructioins could be found here: <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...true#Post378297</div></div> but since the upgrade to the forum that link is no longer good.

Glad I could help. I think your problem being solved, by us going through the diagnosis step by step, will help others. Before I purchased my Reatta, a lot of mechanics had tried to fix the brakes but failed. I knew that I was on my own in fixing my brakes. By using the brake test at Reatta.net and studying the FSM, I leared as much as I could about the brake system. My problem turned out to be a bad accumulator. Thanks to everyone on this forum who offer your help!

Clicking lifters and low oil pressure go hand in hand. If the oil pump does not supply enough pressure and volume of oil to the lifters and rocker arms then the hydraulic lifters will not "pump up" and take the excess clearance out of the valve train. The excessive clearance is what is causing the clicking sound you hear. Now for the lack of acceleration. Does the engine RPM increase while the car stops accelerating? If so the transmission is slipping between gears. The big jerk you feel is when the transmission finally goes back into gear. IT can be caused by low transmission fluid. Spool valves sticking in the valve body and lots of other things. Sounds like you really need to talk to your transmission repair man. What it is doing can really damage a transmission. Sorry that I don't have better news.

The Cranking System section of the FSM shows it's location clearly. Look at page 6D2-4 Figure 5 "Starter Motor Mounting"