Ronnie

What would be involved in putting a keyless entry system on my '88 model? Has anyone done this before? What parts do I need and where can I get them? Is the wiring harness already setup for the keyless entry system? Any help or comments are appreciated.

I'm still trying to trace down this noise that annoys me. Most people say they don't hear it unless they listen really close. The noise sounds a lot like a burned valve and is only present when the car is idling after it has been driven for about a mile or so. It seems slightly louder when the car is in idling in gear. The sound is a slow, deep pulsating sound, a little like a muffler with a hole in it. It is not a burned valve. Compression is ~150 psi on each cylinder and the engine runs excellent. When using a stethoscope the sound is most pronounce in two unusual places. The loudest place is when touching the tip of the stethoscope to the front engine mount on the passenger side and the other is at the end of the pulley shaft of the A/C compressor when it is off. You can hear the noise only slightly throughout the engine block and transmission. However, I can hear it when sitting in the car at a red light. I have ruled out the A/C compressor by using a belt that bypasses the A/C compressor completely. The noise is still there. I have ruled out it being the harmonic balancer by installing a new harmonic balancer. I'm thinking of installing a new motor mount but I have never heard a motor mount make noises before. Does anyone have any ideas about what this sound could be? I don't think is is hurting anything. I have driven the car about 2500 miles now with no problems but I just want it gone.

Obviously great minds think alike. My last Sunday afternoon car was an '88 Fiero Formula, one before that was an '86 MR2. 914s are good... 916 is fantastic!!! (looks like 914 with a flat 6 cyl). Never had one though.

The best way to test the CV joint: 1. Get in a large parking lot where you have lots of room. 2. Roll the windows down so you can hear clearly. 3. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock while slowly moving. If you have a bad CV joint you will hear it grinding and popping while turning sharply at slow speed. Normally CV joints are quiet when going straight unless they are worn so bad they are on the verge of coming apart.

Bad connection to battery OR Bad battery IF what you did above is repeatable. Even new batteries can go bad. If it won't start with a fully charged battery then you may have other problems like the starter.

You are welcome! Please post here if your problem is solved by this thread so others can benefit from it. Maybe JWC is still monitoring this thread and can get his brakes working by reading this.

Did you ground the Gray wire with Red strip going to the relay as I suggested? Did the relay pickup and supply 12 volts to the pump? If so pressure switch is almost sure to be the problem. Your really need the pressure adapter to connect to the brake system to read the actual pressure in the line to know for sure if the pressure switch is good or bad. It should let the pump run until it builds ~2200 psi in the accumulator before turning off the pump (by breaking the ground to the pump relay). I don't have one. Would be nice if you had a pressure switch that is known to be good to swap to see if it corrects the problem OR a parts store that would let you return it if that is not the problem.

I don't really suspect the fuse being bad. I'm still thinking pressure switch. Try this: Find the brake pump relay on the fire wall it should have a Brown wire and a Gray with Red stripe wire. Ground the Gray with Red strip wire. Test for 12 volts at the pump connector.... Do you have 12 volts? --If YES see if pump will run when connected. Don't let it run long connected like this. Just a test to see if it will run. IF it runs you probably have a bad pressure switch that normally supplies a ground to the brake pump relay Gray with Red stripe wire. --If NO power to connector, swap the relay temporarily with one of the other two on the fire wall and test connector again for 12 volts. If you now have 12 volts the original relay is bad.

<span style="color: #FF0000">Get access to the Field Service Manual as recommended above.</span> You cannot do without it. It will answer most of your questions. First, you MUST determine if the pump motor is running or not. Disconnect the connector that is on the pump motor to determine if the pump runs or not. The connector has two wires one black and one pink with black strip. IF it is not running check for 12 volts between the two wires referenced above. Let me know what you find. Then troubleshoot why it is not running.

Well... I'm back to trying to find my noise. Please see my first post for symptoms. I installed a new harmonic balancer but still have the same noise. After I got the old balancer off and cleaned it up, it looks as good as the new one. What I thought was dry rot cracks was just a build up of dirt and oil deposited in a neat line by Centrifugal force. The noise sounds a lot like an engine with a burned valve that has a dead cylinder at idle due to low compression but the engine seems to idle smooth except for the sound. I have checked the compression and it is 150 psi +_ 4 psi on all cylinders so that rules out a burned valve. Using a stethoscope, the noise sounds like it is coming from the crossover exhaust pipe heat shield where the pipe goes over the transmission bell housing. You cannot hear the sound coming from the exhaust manifolds. Can anyone offer an idea about what the noise might be? Does anyone else have and engine that makes this noise? Thanks for your help!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cmas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ron Thanks for the reply, Test results I made many pumps with pedal, lights never came back on. Car runs normal no lights on, but brake pedal is hard and no brake assist. ---What happened to test #1? 2.Pedal is hard from first pump, never changes did 30 pumps. ---Does the pedal remain hard after sitting overnight BEFORE turning key to on position? 3. 6 seconds red light turns off. 4 seconds yellow dash lights turn off. 4. 4 seconds pump turns off. ---Bad pressure switch could explain these short elapsed times. 5.pump never goes back on no matter how much I pump the pedal. ---Bad pressure switch could explain this. 6. no difference over the line and will overflow if I continue to pump pedal with cap on. ---You need to get the fluid level correct. Get it even with the line so you can continue to pump the pedal. 7.I feel the tap. ---Good Rod Any idea. Feels like fluid is not flowing back to brakes. No warning lights on dash. I statr car and brake light is on then goes off and never reappears even though brake pedal is hard and no stopping power. Thanks Chas </div></div> See comment in quote above. I suspect the pressure switch is bad. I believe it is not allowing the pump to fully pressurize the accumulator before the it turns the pump off. Therefore you do not have enough power assist pressure to help you stop. That would also explain why the pump does not turn back on. Use the online Field Service Manual to diagnose the pressure switch. It can be found a Reatta.net under Documents. You will need to register to use it. Let me know what you find.

Click here and take the "Brake Test" toward the bottom of the page. Report back here with the results.

The code e026 is covered in the FSM. It appears there are about a dozen different things that can cause the e026 code to set, for SES light, TCC problems, AC problens, bad ground connections and others. First I would go back to the diagnostics screen and reset (clear) the codes. Then drive the car without turning on the AC for a while. Go back to see if the e026 is present. If it is NOT then the B448 could be causing the e026 to set.

A long time ago a friend named Joe and I were working in his two stall garage where he made his living. He lived in the house above the garage. I was washing out one of the stalls with a water hose and the water from it was flooding the parking lot outside. My friend was under an old Willis Jeep attempting to cut the exhaust pipe off with a torch so it could be replaced. While cutting the pipe he nicked the floor board and the gas tank that was mounted under the driver's seat with the torch. There was no explosion but gasoline started pouring from the floor board onto the concrete floor and started to burn. Joe quickly shoved the Jeep out the door into the parking lot, which was slightly down hill. The Jeep rolled into the curb on the other side of the street and continued to burn to a crisp before the Fire Dept. arrived. I used the water hose to wash the burning gasoline out into the parking lot and across the street where it helped the Jeep burn even more. For some odd reason there never was the big explosion you see on TV. It was a huge gasoline fire. Luckily the garage and house was not damaged except for smoking up the garage.

How about adding a signature line at the end of your posts with the model of your car. '88-'89 are different from '90-'91. Will help when others try to help with problems on your car. If your car is an '88-'89 model, go to the climate control screen. Hold the OFF button and the WARM button until the diagnostics screen appears. It will display all the codes automatically for the ECM, BCM and other computers. I can't tell you how do access diagnostics with later models. Hope this helps!

As usual I used the last resort (using the starter)first. The bolt came right out. Rest of installing the balancer was easy. Slide old one off and slide new one on. Thanks kennyw for the tip! That's why I love this forum. It's like having Mr. Goodwrench waiting to help. Thanks to everyone on this forum for making it so useful!

You might want to consider using some STP oil treatment. I believe it is designed for that purpose. Some people swear by it and other hate it. I have used it before and it does seem to quieten noisy engines and increase the oil pressure slightly. I would only add it to an older, high milage engine as a last resort. I would not use it in an engine in good condition.

That might be what I will have to do. I believe I will save that as a last resort. Sounds a little scary. Maybe there is a way to lock the bar in place so there is no chance of it coming loose and hitting something. Thanks for the help!

Thanks Jim, Vise grips are what I used to hold the flywheel. That was not the problem. I just could not break the bolt loose. I was afraid it my be left hand like the tensioner pulley bolt. My 1/2" breaker bar was flexing a lot and the bolt still would not come loose. It was getting to the point that I was worried that it might break. Looks like I will need to get it up on a rack and borrow a 3/4" drive, socket and breaker bar. Then use a cheater pipe for leverage. Is the bold required to be that tight?

I'm trying to remove the large bolt that holds the balancer to the crankshaft. I can't get it to turn, even with a 1/2" impact wrench or a 24" breaker bar. Are the treads possibly left hand? If not, any ideas on getting the bolt out?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wwebb</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I have bought drilled/slotted rotors from one of the Ebay suppliers for other cars and I prefer them if for no other reason they are treated and do not rust in all the non-working areas that all the other rotors rust. They work satisfactorily but I could not say for certain they work better than a regular rotor. A shameless confession...I needed rotors for the Reatta, did not want to wait for delivery of a drilled/slotted set, so, I installed economy rotors sold by one of the big auto parts places, but they seem to work well. </div></div> Which cheap rotors did you buy? How many miles have you put on them so far? I'm looking for good rotors at a good price.

Thanks to everyone for all the comments. I really appreciate it! I checked out the Brembo rotors at the Tire Rack website. There are lots of reviews there about the Brembo rotors there and most are very satisfied customers. Most say they have a high resistance to warping and that is one of the main things I'm looking for, along with quiet operation. I believe they are the best ones for the money but I'm still going to try to find some info on the Bendix rotors before I make up my mind.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nic walker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No one corrected me on my spelling of tarp...... </div></div> I just thought you might have lived here in Tenussee for a while.

I'm leaning toward the NAPA rotors for $33 each. If anyone has had problems with these rotors please let me know. Can anyone suggest a better rotor for the money?

Any more suggestions? Bump...