Ronnie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> that is a $500 JC Whitney body kit.</div></div> Could you please point out the JC Whitney kit that was used. I can't find it on their website. Thanks!

Maybe an adapter made of steel tubing to go between the steel line and the Camaro brake line would be one solution to extend the length. These guys should be able to make anything you need for custom steel lines. They make lines for street rods.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: style</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i noticed while driving between 70 and 100mph my crt display/picture moves up and down like a millimeter or so and its quiet distracting is it on its way out or is this normal, and why doesnt my cruise control work around 105mph is there any quick fix for this anoyance as well.... </div></div> I've heard about the problem you are having with the CRT before. I heard that if you straddle the console so you can put your face down low and directly in line with the screen the flickering will go away. The time required will vary, but if you watch long enough, the flickering will defiantly go away. After the flickering goes away you will realize the cruise control not working above 105mph was not much of a problem after all.

I like it! Stripes and all. Thanks for the link. $9000 - WOW. How about a kit for us Do-It-Yourself guys? Maybe something I could afford.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Keep in mind that one bad wire can take out two cyls. </div></div> That's interesting. Could you please explain how? I understand how one bad coil could. Maybe if a plug wire was completely shorted to ground it could. I would like to know for future reference and trouble shooting. Thanks.

You're welcome.

What is the difference between the LN3 and the L67? What is the advantage of converting to the L67 and what parts are needed to do it? I have an '88 model so I assume mine is an LN3. Correct?

1. - After signing in, create a new post or reply to an existing post. (You must click on the "reply" button, you cannot use the "quick reply" box at the bottom of a post.) 2. - Type your message in the editor. 3. - Click "File Manager" below the editor next to where is says "Post Options". (A new window will pop up.) 4. - Click "Browse" and select the photo file from your computer. You can add a caption for the file now if you like in the box provided. (make sure the photo is less than 1 meg in size) 5. - Click the "Add File" button (Repeat steps 4 and 5 if you want to add more photos.) 6. - After you're done, click "Done Adding Files" (The pop up window will close.) 7. - Click "Submit" to post your message and photos to the forum.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When comming to a stop, and stopping the rpm's are dropping very slow from 1200rpm's to 650 then 700 rpm's stays there. </div></div> Symptoms of a vacuum leak.

As scarce as our Reattas are, if they were half as popular as the Miata, they would probably be worth twice as much as they are.

Thanks for that article. I really enjoyed it. Anyone notice that the outside temp. shown on the CRT was 130°? That is in line with the engine temp. being 226°.

There is a problem with the key locking mechanism that connects to the ignition switch that is down low on the steering column. It does sound like someone has tried to force it. One thing to check before tearing into it - be sure the transmission is in park or neutral. (Move the shifter back and forth while holding the key in the start position.) The starter will not turn unless the park/neutral safety switch is in the proper position. Someone could have tried to force the shifter out of park also.

Sulfur smell was probably corrosion burning while the cable was making a poor connection. Remove both battery cables. Clean throughly and reinstall. Move the cable connector up and down continuously while tightening the bolt to seat the connector properly.

Is there some reason that us Reatta owners should not rely on the NADA price guide that is based on thousands of monthly sales reported by NADA members across the USA? Members that are legitimate car dealers, both dealerships and used car lots like you find on most city street corners. When it comes to selling our cars to each other we can inflate prices and maybe still be able to sell to each other because we love our Reattas. But, when it comes to selling to Joe Sixpack down the street that is another matter. He is probably going to use the NADA Price Guide to get his information on the value of your car and to determine what he is willing to pay. Showing him a price guide that has higher price will be of little value in making a sale.

I would recommend first checking with Jim Finn here on this forum. He is reliable and honest. His prices are reasonable. I don't have his email address handy but it is all over this forum. Just search for Jim Finn.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dpannell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nic is right...it has been chromed....and has ALOT of striations or grinder marks under the chrome throughout the length of the top. Nice people....and they're sitting on a gold mine.... MANY older great looking bumpers recently rediscovered in a warehouse. Imperial Bumper Center 317-926-2907 </div></div> I don't see the connection between "a gold mine" and chrome bumpers with ALOT grinder marks. I believe I would rather have my cloudy looking bumpers as have a bumper that had grinder marks with chrome over them. They may be nice people but I wonder why they would not do the chroming process properly by buffing out all the grinder marks before chroming the bumpers. If they did that poorly on the preparation, it makes me wonder how well they did on the plating process. I believe "Buyer Beware" would apply here.

I'm glad I could help.

I believe your spoiler is toward the rear a little more than mine but it still looks good. I think the Alero spoiler works well on the Reatta. It doesn't dominate the rear of the car and in my opinion flows with the lines of the Reatta really well. I will need to keep a watch on the water problem. If it starts to leak I will have to pull it back off and apply some silicon where the screws go through the trunk lid. I like the look of all the spoilers I've seen in photos of Reattas. I believe the ones I have seen are: '98 Mustang style spoilers, '05 Mustang style spoilers and the 2000 Alero spoiler. (Mine is the only one I have seen on a Reatta other than the ones in photos.) If anyone else has a spoiler on your Reatta, especially one not listed above, post your pics here. I would like to see them.

As Info, the blinker fluid is out of stock. I ordered one of the adjustable power bands for my Reatta and they work great!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: inthespot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">By the way, what type paint did you use and did you paint it yourself or have someone else do it? I just might go looking for me one of those and put on my car. </div></div> The paint is Dupont Ful-Base b/c. $29.85 per pint. It was mixed by a local auto parts store. They have a portable computer they set on the trunk to get a good color match. I had a friend, who owns a body shop, paint it for me. He primed and sanded it. Sprayed the red base coat and then the clear coat. After it dried over night he wet sanded it and buffed it. $30.00. He supplied everything but the red base coat. You might find one cheaper at the junk yard but I gave $59.00 including shipping on eBay brand new in the box. No bidding, used the "Buy-It-Now" button. There are more on there. They didn't supply the gaskets that goes underneath. I had to make those.

I personally would like to do tow things. I would like to lower the temp that the cooling fans turn on. I have I 180° thermostat. My car normally runs at 186° going down the highway even in 100° weather. I would like the fans to come on at about 195° and keep the engine cooler in traffic. I would also like the torque converter to wait until 52-55 mph before locking up. When driving in town it is annoying to have the converter unlock/lock every time I let off and get back on the gas. To be honest I have never liked locking torque converters. I know why we need them but I don't like them. Yes, I know it would hurt gas mileage and I wouldn't want it if my Reatta was my daily driver. I use mine as a Sunday driver for enjoyment and to have fun. A little gas mileage can be sacrificed to do away with anything that distracts from that.

Padgett, Although your original post pointed toward an ignition problem, your comment "almost seems like the engine shuts off for an instant, then catches, then cuts off again but just for a moment", makes me think it may be caused by a lean fuel mixture. Kinda like a car with a carburetor that has a bad spray pump, "bogging down" on acceleration. To isolate problem as being the fuel system or the ignition system I would try to get the computer to come out of closed loop mode and go back into open loop mode. That would simulate the engine being cold again as far as the fuel system is concerned. You said the problem did not occur until the engine is warm. If the problem goes away in open loop mode, more than likely it is the fuel system. I would change the oxygen sensor first. It has the most (almost 100%) control over instantaneous lean conditions. If the problem is still there in open loop mode I would be checking the ignition system closely. I believe disconnecting the oxygen sensor will put the computer back in open loop. Maybe even disconnecting the TPS or temp sensor. Someone else may know a better way. Hope this helps.

How about some photos of yours so we can see what a good looking spoiler looks like?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> BTW, I hope you sealed the mounting points. I had to redo mine with silicone because they leaked.</div></div> I didn't use any silicon. Did you use a rubber gasket between the trunk lid and the spoiler? I had to make my gaskets. I used a soft 1/8" rubber that compresses easily and is water proof. I may have to go back and use silicon like you did.

OK Reatta fans. It is not the widest, not the lowest and not the highest but I decided to go with it. I like the result. I'm sure others will not.