Ronnie

Where is a good place to purchase the correct balancer at a good price? Anyone used AutoZone or Advance?... or do I need a GM replacement? Would be nice to have a part number. Thanks for the help!

No photos showing up for me.

Has anyone purchased a new balancer from seller: carpartswholesale on eBay? Are they of good quailty? Will they fit my 88 model? Thanks!

What can cause this noise? My 88 coupe makes an unusual, low frequency, thumping noise only when idling. It can be heard when in park but it is more pronounced when in gear. It seems to go away above 1200 RPM. It can't be heard when the car is completely cold but starts as soon as it is driven a short distance or idles for a short period of time. I have found that if I remove the serpentine belt that it almost goes away. If I listen close I believe I can barely hear it but it is hard to tell for sure. The belt looks excellent. The the accessories such as alternator seem to sound normal when spun by hand. I inspected the balancer. I didn't see any large cracks or missing rubber pieces. It does have what appears to be hairline cracks where the rubber bonds to the metal. How can I test the balancer to make sure it is OK? Here is what I know about the engine: 103,000 miles Starts & Runs Excellent Good oil pressure 42 PSI idling, 52-58 PSI at 2000 RPM Good compression, 150 PSI +- 4 PSI NO sounds such as rod knocking or valves rattling Any help is appreciated.

Did you get the name and model number of the frig in case someone else here has the same problem? I'm glad to see you are making progress in getting the sunroof fixed.

Is there an easy way to temporarily disable the ABS system and keep the regular brakes functioning as if the car didn't have ABS?

Thanks for the information. When time permits I think I will try the repair procedure. Doesn't sound too hard if I can get the radio out without destroying something else. Someone also suggested getting the radio out of a later model Chevy pickup truck. I wonder if anyone has tried replacing the tape player with a radio that has a CD? I'm sure there would be some wiring issues to over come but I guess the big hurdle would be making the installation look like it belonged there. I find using the controls on my 88 model very clumsy and not easy to do going down the road. I just like knobs and normal buttons better.

From what you describe it sound like a cracked rotor or maybe broken or loose caliper parts. Does the vibration start as soon as you drive after the car has cooled down overnight? If there is no vibration until you drive it some, you may have a caliper sticking and overheating, causing the rotor to warp by excessive heat which can lead to a cracked rotor. If this is the case you may see the rotor actually glow at night when you drive a long distance. The caliper can stick in two ways. The piston can stick or the caliper can stick/freeze on the pins that allow it to move from side to side to center it's self on the rotor. Either one can lead to overheating due to friction from the pad dragging on the rotor. I hope this helps you find your problem.

Thanks for the information. I'll check it to see if does it when no sound is being played. Where can I send it for repairs and about what will it cost.

Don't you worry about the Southern folks. We are still saving our confederate money. We still think the South will rise again! This post was not about the North and South it was about parts.

I have a popping and cracking sound that seems to come for different speakers at different times but the back speakers seem to be the worst. Is there something besides the speakers that could cause this problem? The radio seems to pick up stations just fine with a strong signal. Thanks

Barney, I'm new to this forum. I noticed you mentioned a newsletter. Can you tell me about it. Is it part of a Reatta club? Is there a Reatta club? I looked on Reatta.net and didn't find anything. Thanks

Thanks to everyone for all the help! That is what I love about this forum. I can usually get the answers I need. Like this light bulb issue, sometimes the simplest things can turn into a big headache if you don't know the correct way to do the job. Thanks again!

How do I remove the curtesy light bulb located near the parking brake? Does it pull out, twist out or what? I can't seem to get anything to work.

Thanks Barney! The tip on adding a ground will help me. When I open the trunk my solenoid cycles several times as you say. I thought the problem was some kind of timer causing it of something. How should the ground be installed? Does the trunk lid need to be grounded to the body or the solenoid need to be grounded to the trunk lid or both? Thanks again!

I don't know about the Bar's Rear Main Seal Repair. I have never used it. I can tell you that Bar's Leak (in the bottle, not the dry pellets) is a great product. I put it in every vehicle I own as soon as I purchase it. It is preventative maintenance. It has a water pump lubricant in it that extends the life of the bearing and seal in the water pump as well as having the advantage of being there to stop a leak as soon as it starts. I've used it in two Toyota trucks that I put over 200,000 on each one and I currently have an s-10 with 197,000 on it. Between all three I have installed only two water pumps and had no cooling system leaks. Not bad for that many miles. One of the main reasons I use it is the dreaded heater core leaks. I don't mind working under a car but I hate to work inside one. Only drawback I have found is the coolant looks dirty and rusty with the Bar's Leak in it.

Take a look at this website: Eagle Stainless Steel Tubing they seem to have most any size tubing you could want and they will cut to any length you like according to the website. I hope this helps.

I don't understand what you mean for sure. Are you saying the FSM is in the binder? I'm kinda new here so what is the Craft Centre? Thanks

Bad connection or bad sending unit in the gas tank can cause this problem. If it acts erratically with any amount of gas in the tank then I would suspect a bad connection. If this only occurs when the tank is full I would suspect a bad sending unit.

Peter, I also appreciate your work maintaining the forum. I well understand that unexpected problems can arise when updates are done. In another post I offered to build a web site that would be just for buying and selling Reatta cars and parts. I think my post may have been misunderstood and folks thought I was wanting to replace this forum which was incorrect. I was only offering to build a website that would make it easier to list the cars and parts and streamline the buying and selling process. I was simply offering help where it might have been needed. There does not seem to be any interest in another site and that is fine with me. No interest saves me a lot of time and work. I am very thankful that this site is here. It has helped me tremendously in maintaining my Reatta. Thanks for everything you do!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nic walker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Since I am goning over to pick one up today, I believe the engine should be jacked up/or supported with a jack...is there a certain area to place the jack tongue/support or any tricks please? </div></div> I just replaced my dogbone. It requires no jacking or support. The main engine and transmission mounts support the engine. The dogbone just keeps the engine from rocking back and forth. Remove the two bolts going through the dogbone and remove the dogbone from the bracket. You might possibly need a large screwdriver to pry it out if it is tight. Installing it is just the reverse of removing it. Use a large screwdriver to line up the holes for the bolts. Thats it!

It seems there may be a need for a new website, just devoted to Reatta owners, where they can buy, sell and trade there cars and parts and also post a request for parts they need. I have plenty of space on a server and the ability to build a site similar to this one: RoaneAutoMart.com, but it would be devoted to Reatta's only. It would be setup with categories just for buying, selling and trading Reatta cars and parts and for posting a request for parts you need. The website would have it's own unique domain name. An important feature of such as website is that no one has to have access to your personal information, including your email address unless you want them to have it. As our cars get older, buying, selling and requesting parts is going to be increasingly more important to us. I'm willing build a website to make buying and selling your cars and parts as easy as possible if there is a need for it. You guys on this website will have to let me know if you would use the website before I spend the time and effort to build it. What's in it for me you ask? Hopefully if the site is a success someone would want to advertise on one of the banner ads, like the one that you see at the top of the RoaneAutoMArt.com page (the site would never be cluttered with ads) and also as important would be the pride I would have in helping my fellow Reatta owners with buying and selling their cars and getting the parts they need. I really love my car! RoaneAutoMart.com is a demo site that I have setup to demonstrate websites that I design and build. Use it any way you would like to try it out but please put a note in there somewhere that you are only testing so others will know it is not the real thing. I will delete everything at a latter time as nothing is intended to be bought or sold there now. I'm not knocking anyone for the Reatta Buy/Sell forum that is available here and not wanting to hurt anyone's feelings, but I would like to see a more organized site that is just built for the Reatta owner that would feature an easy way to list your cars, such as clicking boxes with predefined options or selecting from a list and also an easy way to upload your photos. Whatever the Reatta community would need in a website of this type I would be willing to try to provide it. All questions and comments are welcomed.

As info for anyone who may have the same problem with codes E027 and E029 and maybe other transmission related codes. I solved my problem by taking a small screwdriver and <span style="text-decoration: underline">slightly</span> bending each pin of the harness connector inward to cause the pins to have some friction when inserted into the female connector. I applied a small amount of die-electric grease to the connector before connecting for the final time. After driving for about 100 miles no codes have returned. I hope this helps someone else.

I searched again with no luck. His user name is actually CL_Reatta (note the underscore) To see all his posts by searching, leave the keyword blank, enter CL_Reatta in the "Display Name Search" box and set the time to 5 years as described above.

No luck finding the tutorial on the shifter mechanism. I did find this: Shifter tape tutorial #2 The search engine on this forum is very clumsy. Each time you search you must make sure you have the correct forum selected in the box on the left, enter your keyword and then set the Date Range to: New Than 5 Years to get good results. Glad to help.