Ronnie

I was wondering what problems others might have experienced with gmpartsdirect.com. It appears FEDEX lost the package that was shipped to me by gmpartsdirect. FEDEX said for me to notify gmpartsdirect of the lost package and said they would need to file a claim. I emailed gmpartsdirect and so far have not received a response. Anyone else had a similar problem?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I also had the prom reprogrammed by Sinister to turn the fans on at 190 and 195 instead of the factory 212 and ???. </div></div> I would like to get my prom reprogrammed. Does Sinister offer a reprogramming service to the public? How can he be contacted? Thanks!

Thanks guys. I appreciate the information.

Thanks Barney. I'm a little disappointed. I thought they would be the same as the Mustang wheels. I have read here that others are using them. I assume the Mustang has a different bolt pattern.

Has anyone tried to fit the 16" Taurus mag wheels to the Reatta? These five spoke wheels look good and should be plentiful. They would be a good source of cheap 16" wheels for those of us who want to do the Front Caliper Upgrades but don't have 16" wheels.

Are the Camaro lights brighter? What mods are needed to install them?

Bill, before buying more parts I would troubleshoot the brake system to pin point the part that has failed. Throwing parts at it until it starts working is going to get expensive. For example; the pressure switch MAY be the problem. But, if you have a worn pump that cannot produce the required pressure (aprox. 2200 psi I believe) then even a new switch will not ever sense the required pressure and therefore will not stop the pump from running and will not turn off the lights. To help you determine what part is actually defective read the following threads that are about troubleshooting brake problems. Maybe it will help you. I'm willing to answer any questions I can to help you out. Brake Test Results Hard Brake Pedal

fix it

I guess for us to be on the same page you will have to define what you mean by "leaking accumulator" If you mean the bladder inside the accumulator is leaking, my answer would be NO the accumulator can not cause the pump to continue to run continuously. This is the condition I assumed you were referring to. The purpose of the bladder in the accumulator is to separate a pressurized gas in the top of the accumulator from the brake fluid being forced into the bottom of the accumulator by the pump. The pump forcing the brake fluid into the accumulator, compresses the gas to provide a reserve pressure in the brake system even when the pump is not running. When the bladder is broken you lose the reserve pressure but the pump will still shut of when the accumulator is completely filled with brake fluid. The accumulator acts much like a "captive air tank" in a well pump system. If you mean the accumulator has a hole or a bad seal where it screws into the manifold is leaking brake fluid out on the ground, then YES it can cause the pump to run continuously. I never read anything in your post that lead me to believe this was your problem. Did I overlook something? Hope this helps to answer your question.

I believe you ordering the accumulator might have been a little premature. I would investigate the problem further. If both lights stay on all the time and never go off and the pump keeps running, the brake system has a problem other than the accumulator. If the pump keeps running all the time, for some reason it is either not capable of building proper pressure OR the pressure switch is defective and not sensing the pressure and shutting the pump off. If the pressure switch does not sense the correct pressure both the red and yellow light will stay on. If the accumulator is the only part that is defective, the system will take longer to build pressure but once it builds the required pressure the pump will stop running and the lights will go out. Even if there is a hole in the bladder inside the accumulator.

I hate to see such a good thread dropped. I currently only have 15" wheels but if I find some reasonably priced 16" wheels I would like to do this upgrade. What was the outcome of this project? What parts were ultimately used? How well did the brakes function when the job was completed? Inquiring minds would like to know.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: F14CRAZY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">With some magic unknown to me, it measure airflow with a pair of tiny wires </div></div> The wire or filament is heated to a predetermined temperature by voltage supplied to the wire. Resistance in the wire increases with temperature. As intake air moves across the wire, the cooling effect causes a measurable drop in resistance. The ECM takes that resistance measurement and compares it to data tables in the PROM (Programmable Read Only Memory) and determines the amount of air mass moving through the engine at a given point in time. So... dirt or other contaminates on the wire prevents the wire from being cooled properly by the air flowing across it. The ECM in turn gets improper data from the MAF sensor causing the engine to run poorly.

MAF = MASS AIR FLOW. Sensor that measures the amount of raw air flowing into the plenum. Sends information to the ECM (along with many other sensors) to calculate the amount of time the injectors need to be open for the correct air/fuel ratio. Air filter hose connects to it.

Luke, I'm glad I could help. Ron

Find another shop. They are trying to take advantage of you. AutoZone has the rebuilt MAF sensor with one year warranty for $161.99. Installing it should take about 30 minutes or less. Charge should be less $50 for installing. You might be able to install it yourself. Easy job.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 91Polo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sounds like a lock-up problem. How many miles on this car. When was the last time the tranny was serviced? Could be as easy as having the tranny seviced with a fluid changed. Then again it could be more. You might want to have it checked out. Good Luck.. </div></div> To confirm the lock-up problem, go into diagnostics mode on the CRT and see if the shudder occurs when the TCC light comes on.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 89REATTAJIM</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Haven't counted, but I believe yours are lighting correctly. If you remove the lens assembly, be very careful to not chip the surrounding paint. </div></div> Also be careful when reinstalling the assembly to not break the red reflectors. The tail light assembly will hang on the edge of them and they will break in the 90° turn. I found this out the hard way.

Hey guys, What is the diameter of the '88 hood emblem? I have a '88 model but the diameter seems large to me. I may have a '89 or later hood and/or emblem.

The code may not clear if there is an actual problem but it is worth a try. Turn on the key but don't start the engine. Allow the CRT to warm up. Push the "Climate" button on the upper left of the CRT display. Hold the "off" button and the "warm" button at the same time. After a few seconds, all the stored codes will start being listed one at a time on the screen. ECM codes are displayed first, then BCM codes and then other codes. BCM codes will contain codes for the AC. I would be prepared to write down the codes for further troubleshooting. After all codes are displayed the screen will ask "ECM?", click the "no" button. Then it will ask "BCM?", click "yes". It will continue to ask BCM related questions and you need to click "no" until you come to "Reset codes" and click "yes". That will reset the BCM codes. Click "end" and you are done. Restart the engine. If you still have the AC problem displayed you will have to troubleshoot the AC system. If cold air blows out you saved yourself some money. Good Luck!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 'Reatta1'</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Looks like you need some AC service too. I had same problem with my 88 4 or 5 years ago and ended up converting to 134a and have not been sorry. Have not had a problem since. </div></div> Has anyone tried the R12 replacement called Freeze12 to top off a low system? It's cheap enough and available locally. BTW, you might be able to reset the AC code and it will start working again. When the code is set the AC will shut off until the code is reset, even if it is just an intermittent problem.

The problem is either a dry/dirty window track or the window is out of the track. The reason it goes part way and stops is because resistance on the motor gets too great and the breaker trips. After it cools down the breaker resets and allows you to try again. Eventually the motor or the relay will fail for good if you keep forcing it to work. Repairs need to be made before that happens. The procedure for repair has been discussed at length on this forum. Sorry but I don't have a link. Search for window problems and I'm sure you will find the help you need or someone who has done the procedure will chime in here to offer help.

I would like to hear about the pan gasket. I'm having problems in that department.

F14, I'm a little confused. After reading your post and trying to follow what you say, I can't tell if you are saying the sway bar end links on eBay will fit, won't fit or you're not sure. I would like to change my sway bar end links. Do you think the ones on eBay will fit? Thanks! Ron

On each side of the engine cradle there are rubber parts (about 10" x 3") attached to the rear that look like small mud flaps. What is the purpose of them?

I would rebuild the one with the bad bearing as soon as possible. I would only install the front and rear bearings and the brushes if they are worn down. It appears the electronics in the one with the bad bearing are good so you won't have to change regulator or rectifier diodes unless you just want to for piece of mind. It would cost you very little money and would be quicker than going back to the junk yard. That way you would know you had an alternator that was going to last for a while.