joe_padavano

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packard32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Rolls-Royce even made a 3 cylinder engine....B </div></div> That might be unusual for RR, but three cylinder engines are downright common. The Suzuki Sprint/Geo Metro had a 1.0L 3cyl - an optional turbo version was even available. My 78 JD tractor has a 3 cyl diesel.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rusty_OToole</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I do know various car makers built bizarre experimental engines, way stranger than a straight 9. </div></div> You're right there. Oldsmobile built and tested a V5. You read that right - three on one bank, two on the other. I was unable to find the picture of it on line, but here's a news report from 1981: http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.ht.../Topics/Engines

Engine parts for the 215 are pretty easy to come by. Not only are there parts for the Rover version (as noted above) but D&D Fabrications in Michigan specializes in these motors and has a wide variety of stock and aftermarket parts. There were a lot of aftermarket parts available when the motors were new and many of these show up on ebay. Parts for the cars is a different matter. The repro market is virtually nonexistent, so good used is your only option. One thing I've always found cool about these cars is that the 61-63 Corvair, Tempest, Cutlass, and Special all share the same basic floorpan architecture. The Corvair was obviously rear-engine and air-cooled. The Buick and Olds versions used a conventional front engine and trans with a solid rear axle. The Tempest used the front engine but a version of the Corvair transaxle mounted in back. I'll never forget the first time I saw one of these Pontiacs in a wrecking yard. The transaxle had a torque converter hanging in the breeze where the Corvair engine should have been and a driveshaft input on the front end of the transaxle instead. Pretty wild.

I'm willing to bet that most of those vanity plates are here in Northern VA. Seems like every soccer-mom-driven SUV has some variation of "4R5SONS" or "R4KIDS" or something like that. I guess they're just trying to rationalize why they need that vehicle. Of course, whenever I see one, only the driver is inside...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Blownolds</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Have a pair of bare (no valves, etc.) big-block G heads for sale. </div></div> G-heads would have had induction-hardened valve seats on both intake and exhaust from the factory. If these have aftermarket hardened exhaust seats, determine if they are the Olds-specific seats or the more generic Chevy seats. The latter are too tall and sometimes machine shops that are not Olds-savvy will hit the water jacket when installing the Chevy seats... which may be why they are still sitting around. Also, are they big or small valve heads?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: talarico8447</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My vote is to keep the original color. Don't let those other changes sway you. </div></div> It's your car, do what you want. An original 2bbl Cutlass is not exactly a top-dollar collectible, despite what Barrett Jackson may make people think. Sable is not the most desirable color.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">GM burned a LOT of customers with that one. People who were loyal GM brand repeat buyers left and never came back. Buh-bye! </div></div> On the other hand, the Olds diesel block makes a BULLETPROOF gas engine.

Yes.

Have you actually removed the top of the carb after the car has sat for a few days to verify there is no fuel in the float bowl, or are you just assuming this? If you're pumping the accelerator and not seeing the accelerator pump squirting fuel, this could be due to a bad pump cup or plugged nozzles. One easy way to check the fuel level without pulling the top off the carb is to use a level stick through the vent. There's actually a calibrated tool for checking float level, but in your case a piece of plastic works fine. Simply mark the float level right after you shut the car off then check it again in a few days. If it's the same, you aren't losing fuel. If you're truly losing fuel, either the plugs in the bottom of the float bowl are leaking (not an uncommon thing for a Qjet), there's a bad check valve in the fuel pump, or there's some unusual evaporation going on. One other slim possibility is that the evap system is plugged and there's pressure building up that forces fuel out of the jets when the car is sitting.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barry Wolk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I also didn't agree with the combustion chamber question. I always learned that the cylinder forms a suction allowing atmospheric pressure to rapidly fill the cylinder on the intake stroke. </div></div> You just said it yourself: "...allowing <span style="font-weight: bold">atmospheric pressure</span> to rapidly fill the cylinder..." The 14.7 PSI atmosphere is the only available force in that problem. Moving the piston increases the volume in the cylinder but it's the weight of the column of air above the engine (ie, the atmospheric pressure) that's forcing the air into the cylinder.

96%. I'm pretty sure I messed up on the fans.

This is not an uncommon problem. I assume the rubber you're talking about is the double-stick glass setting tape between the metal and the glass, not the rubber weatherstrip between the side glass and the door glass, right? If so, you can get a piece of the tape from an automotive glass shop.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: '79 cutlass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what about fuel lines & all that good stuff for the 350? Thanks for the great info. </div></div> Depends on what carb you plan to run, but in stock configuration, EVERYTHING should be the same. The only thing to look out for is the water pump and accessory pulley issue. On Olds motors, the length of the water pump was different depending on whether the car had A/C or not. The pulleys match the water pump. Just swap the pump and pulleys from the 260 onto the 350, use the accessory brackets from the 260, and everything will be exactly the same. Just be sure to reinstall the spacers between the PS pump and the block in the correct places or that belt will never line up.

Just to add to what Dave has said, you don't need to change the trans to install a 350 Olds unless the original trans is not working currently. Any Olds motor will bolt to the existing trans behind the 260, though chances are you have the weak-kneed TH200 that won't live very long behind a more powerful engine.

I found that at 49 years old, I appeared to be the youngest person there (at least on Wednesday)!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: connl</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, it is the diecast model I am looking for. I cannot find a new replacement for this part. Maybe I am overlooking something? Part number or parts store to purchase from would be helpful. Thanks. </div></div> This is not a normal wear item that you'll find at a parts store. The last Olds V8 that used this part was made in 1990. If you're lucky, you MAY find a new one on a shelf at a dealership. Ask for an oil filter adapter for an Olds 307 (VIN Y) in a 1990 Custom Cruiser. Any GM parts counter should be able to look this up, but don't hold your breath. Are you adverse to used parts? There are millions of these in wrecking yards.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: connl</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am in the final stages of rebuilding my 425 for my 1965 Dynamic 88. I would like to replace the oil filter bracket but cannot find a new one anywhere. Does anyone know where I can purchase or if there is another style to utilize? </div></div> If you're talking about the die cast oil filter adapter that bolts to the side of the block, it's the same on all 64-90 Olds V8 motors except the 64 394 and the Toronados. Toro oil filter adapters are angled differently and won't work on a RWD application.

All Trans Ams used a 5 x 4.75" bolt pattern. That won't fit your 88. Only the 64-66 Jetstar 88 used the small bolt pattern.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave71442</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you dont say if you "solved" your problem but maybe this will help: The steering column on my past '71 442 that had an M22 in it would sometimes have to be "turned" to "unlock" the tranny and ignition.. sort of like the column was expecting a column shift, but did not have one. Once you rotate that back to where it should be, everything worked. I remember that it was pretty aggrevating, and I eventually removed the linkage completely that caused the annoyance. </div></div> That's how it's supposed to work. The backdrive linkage rotates the collar (and internal tube) in the steering column to lock the trans in reverse when the key is off (as federally mandated). It also activates the backup light switch that's at the base of the column. If the collar needed to be rotated by hand then your linkage was either worn out or mis-adjusted.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cotington48</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a 1973 Cotner-Bevington Ambulance on an Oldsmobile 98 chassis. The VIN number is 3W60T2M... I have been unable to decode the "W" and the "60". I am also mystified as to why this VIN would have a "2" for the model year as it is clearly a 1973 front end and rear bumper/tail lights. I am wondering if this was a 98 two door body with a "delete package" like the chassis used for modern day limousine and funeral coaches build by Cadillac and Lincoln? Thanks for you help. </div></div> In 1971, the ambulance and hearse bodies carried unique VINs (38840... for the ambulance and 38890... for the hearse) As you may know, the VIN format was changed starting in the 1972 model year; the two-digit series code in the second and third character locations ("88" in this case) was changed to a single letter to free up a character to be used to designate the specific engine option. In 71, the "88" series code was unique to the ambulance/hearse. I suspect the "W" in your VIN is the same. You will note, for example, that in 1972 Olds used the letter designators "U" and "V" for the different Ninety Eight models. In 73 Olds also used "T" and "X" for Ninety Eight models, skipping over "W". This leads me to belive that the "W" was already taken for the ambulance/hearse special chassis models. If you're using the on-line Olds VIN decoder, be aware that the information in it is not entirely complete, which may be why the "W" doesn't show up. Same goes for the "60" body designator. Note that the "40" ambulance and "90" hearse designators were unique for 1971. I suspect that the "60" is just not in the database you're looking at. As for the model year, the car is a 72. The VIN absolutely defines that, as required to comply with federal laws (such as the model year applicability of emissions requirements). It's possible that ambulance conversion was done after the end of the 1972 model year and the builder may have swapped the grille and bumpers to make the car look newer.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lawteachr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am contemplating purchasing a 1989 Cadillac Allante, the vehicle is in very good condition with 78,000 miles. I have read various articles on the vehicle would like some input from Allante owners and their opinion of this model. </div></div> I've got a 93 and I love it. I would suggest you stop in the forum at allante-net: http://66.34.30.72/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi The biggest problem with the 87-92 cars is the ABS. If the system isn't serviced annually, the ABS unit fails, and the brakes go with it. The 93s have a different system that doesn't have this problem.

I just went though this with the rear window weatherstrip for my 86 B-body wagon. The part was listed as discontinued but the parts guy was able to call up a different screen that showed which dealerships still had the part in stock. He was able to order it and get it delivered in two days.

The cam bearings are oiled AFTER the mains and the oil doesn't go anywhere else after that. Oil restrictors in the cam bearings are almost worthless unless the cam bearings are badly worn. More to the point, a virtually free way to get the same effect is to drill smaller oil holes in the cam bearings and install the bearings with these new smaller holes lined up with the feed holes in the block. No need to buy and install Modello's expensive restrictors and no need to worry about the holes in the main bearings. The real problem with the Olds oiling system is that the lifters and top end are fed from the main galleries, BEFORE the main bearings. The only effective mod is to put restrictors in each of the sixteen lifter oil feed holed that come off the main galleries. THIS will help push more oil to the mains.

Convertibles use the same trunklid as the four door. Just replace the trunklid.

First, all 64-67 330s and 65-67 big blocks use the same flywheel/flexplate. If you're looking for a flexplate, ATI sells them at a fraction of the Mondello cost: http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/flexplate/flexplate.htm If you're looking for a manual trans flywheel, Summit sells them - McLeod and Centerforce brands.