whtbaron

Also before you get too excited changing components, disconnect the wire at both ends and make sure there is current coming through. It's a lot easier to change out a broken wire than gauges or senders.

You're getting quite a collection of lever shocks there. Good to see you are still on track...

Any automotive paint supplier worth his salt should be able to match that to fleet chips for you. Most distributors should also be able to load it into a spray bomb for you if that's what you want. Just take the air cleaner lid in with you. Expect to pay more than you would for a box store spray bomb though.

I've followed a similar discussion on the HAMB and a lot of people seem to feel the quality of the Optima's have diminished in the last couple years. I also agree however that the secret to long battery life is keeping them properly maintained, and it's hard to say how these people that are complaining have treated their batteries.

Hudson33 posted that a while back, but I was having issues dealing with the new format...

Let's see if I can turn this right side up...

I'm not sure either, but they do describe it as an authentic restoration. Maybe wishful thinking, but if it's true, they were certainly ahead of their time. I think if I were to add an $850k car to the stable, I could put up with a little red paint.

Somebody told me those PowerGen's were around $700, but I see Summit sells them in the $300 to $500 range if you do end up going that direction. http://www.summitracing.com/int/search/product-line/powermaster-powergen-alternators

Yep...half a freakin continent away... always the way. Good deal for what's there though. I'd toss that pickup bed and build a boat tail with short doors. Excellent start to a project.

And before there were cell phones...

Similar problem with a slant six. It had a ball of solder from the tank's construction rolling around in the tank. When it sucked against the intake, instant off. As soon as the engine died it rolled back in the tank until the fuel movement pulled it back into the line. Ended up removing the tank and shaking the little *#^&@* out.

"You're right... the front brakes grab."

Pothole repairs in Winnipeg were suspended today when the work crew's truck became stuck in one of the potholes...

That's great news... I assume you found a new hiding place for them in case they do plan to come back. Time to add some better locks, alarms and cameras.

Are you looking in any particular state? Country? Continent? This one in particular or one like it?

It is...buff that out and cruise.

I'll throw another little bone of contention into the 24 volt part of the discussion. In the 1960's John Deere sold it's tractors with multiple batteries wired in series rather than parallel to turn 24 volt starters. Somewhere in the text books of theory this was supposed to make the large diesel motors start better. In reality, what happened was you doubled (or quadrupled) the number of connections between the batteries and the starter, and in dusty wet conditions, created the potential for more trouble. I had two tractors with this system, a 4020 that used 2 12 volt batteries, and a 5020 that used 4 sixes. Both tractors were converted to 12 volt starters with a single large 12 volt battery, short fat cables and they have never started better. Despite having modified my systems, in a round about way this puts me in the keep it 6 volts and make proper connections camp for a stock car. Unless you are adding a modern power train, AC, stereos I don't see the need to mess with it. Keep things simple.

That front bumper screams nerf bar to me... something a hotrodder would add on. I wonder if the difficulty in identifying this one isn't because it's an amalgamation of parts from different toys? The wheels look like they could be Turner, but those extended running boards seem a little odd compared to other trucks of the era. The long hood looks more like something off a limo than a truck.

Unless that car has been restored recently, it's likely going to need more than $600 just to pass a safety inspection. Rebuilding the motor is going to start at around $3k for stock specs. The days of racing with a $50 beater are pretty much over... the cost of potential litigation will raise it's ugly head again. You need to decide what class you want to race in and talk to some of the people that actually do it. I think the sticker shock is going to shake you up a little.

Not too surprising the bidding ended with 0 bids.

Minus 30 again...

I agree with Rusty in that thousands of engines have had the "spray bomb rebuild" and turn out just fine for runners, but you've already done the nasty part of the job in getting it stripped to bare metal so why not go the extra mile to help it last longer? Basically primers come in 3 families.... etching primers that go for adhesion only, primer/sealers that help seal against color and moisture movement through the porous primer, and primer surfacers that are used to help level the metal for a smooth high gloss finish. In your case I would suggest a coat of a good quality non-sanding primer/sealer if this is a driver. A few years ago I would have suggested something like PPG's DP-90, but I think that product has been replaced with lead-free versions. I think the last version I saw was called DP-LF (for lead free) but a good chat with your local automotive paint supplier will likely come up with something similar. If you are going for a customized show quality finish (a true restorer would call it over-restoring) and you have ground the block smooth, then I would use a good 2 part high solids primer/surface, and wet sand it with 360 grit before painting. If you are down to spray bombs, try to get the same brand as your paint, or there could be compatibility issues. Generally even though the spray bomb may describe itself as a primer/surface (ok... spell check won't let me call it a surfacer with an R) it will be too thin to have any real levelling qualities, but may enhance the adhesion slightly, and prevent it from rusting longer in a high humidity situation.

You're in the progress of building a running car of your own design... why would you want it to end?? Congrats on the running engine.

I like the C and the B cast into the clutch and brake pedals... lol... the thought that someone might have to be looking at them to make sure is a little scary though!

Got fairly nasty here last nite, minus 42 windchills with minus 30 temps... still only have about a foot of snow though. Might take my vintage 81 Yamaha sled out for a run this afternoon. When I fill up our bulk fuel tanks in Dec. I add conditioner right in the tank every year. So far no probs with the fuel (touch wood), but it's winter fuel delivered up here.