89TC-16V

i have the door sill plastic pieces, i have a bare center console surround, i have a console lid, i have cig lighter parts and i might have a ashtray that goes in the console possibly

i'm kinda motivated to sell this so actually the price is pretty negotiable. i may be interested in a trade even. i'm likely going to buy something different when this is gone. this car is rust free as hard as that may be to believe, it was from Illinois originally and there is soo much under coat on it that nothing but the muffler managed to rott away, any rust there is is surface rust on the chassis parts because they are never coated with anything from the factory.

i'm really looking if i can get close to what i'm asking for the car as basically what it owes me since ive owned it. its a strong drivers car, cosmetically its not perfect. I would not hesitate to drive daily or a long distance. Has all the unique parts that came factory from new that come with it. has 60k miles, i'm pretty sure the odometer is very close to this by the carfax though the odometer is not working its the speedo gear in the transmission that seems to be the culprit. fully registered, inspected and classic insured for an agree value of 13,000$. asking 7000$ or best offer.

i didnt know they refurbed injectors. i guess because i have enough laying around i just replace with what i have around and throw out bad ones.

i only did my rears, i did the left and then i did the right. i didnt touch the front at all. i had my brother pump up the brakes and then power bled them one side at a time

i bled the rears on my 89 the same way i bled any system, never had any problem. i had to replace the calipers on mine

the fuel injectors from an 89 lebaron gtc TII vin code j should be the correct injectors also for the TII auto, the DOHC i cant say, i used TI injectors in a pinch and saw no issues..a lot of cars used the same injectors

if you want to be true to correct and original you should have a shallow pan on the motor and also the shallow oil pump pickup tube. if someone only changed the pan and not the pickup tube it can be a problem as it wont reach the bottom of the pan. no way to know for sure without pulling the pan off. but hey good time to put a nice upgraded oil pan gasket in and do a main seal if its needed

its given there is not a balance shaft assembly in that motor, it wasnt made factory with one, didnt come out until 92 model year. the dipstick tube on a 8V and 16V should be the same length with the correct shallow pan that they were built with. with the deep balance shaft pan it uses a long dipstick from a 2.5l 8V engine. im questioning if you have the correct oil pickup tube as there different pans used different ones, size and length. i would get a correct pan and put it back on the engine. just a matter determining if the motor is common block or non commonblock and then purchasing a pan from a 87-89 2.2L chrysler car. then your dipstick would read correctly and there would never be any oil starvation possible issues down the road

having a balance shaft pan on a non balance shaft motor i guess as long as he has the correct oil pickup tube on it isnt a big problem, im just concerned about all the oil sloshing around because without a balance shaft assembly or a windage setup thats just a sea of oil in a deep pan that can move quite a bit around turns and hard stopping and possibly cause oil starvation

i have the shifter console surround and the armerest console lid. the wood grained trim that supports the switches i do not have.

nice deal for a 1000$, more of less best of both worlds, 8v with a 5spd already would have been nice to drive. i didnt see the 16v that survived a fire, im guessing wasnt in a fire particularly.

did it sell?

im not stripping the seats down, selling complete or not at all

giving it away is even tough lol

i have a mostly complete 1990 interior black leather that im getting ready to dump because im never gonna have use for any of it. the seats and console cover are in great shape still very soft. the door panels in great shape also. the rugs i have saved, i dont have the floor matts sorry. the top of the dash i have in poor shape and the speed cluster cover also in poor shape. i have all the black plastic trim for inside also including the steering column and shifter surround. i have the seat belts and rear compartment for spare tire also. i dont need any of this stuff, had thought of going to black in my 89 but the beige is a bit cooler in the summer temperature wise. pm me or post with wants or needs i will get back to you with price and pictures if i have it. would be nice to make some spare christmas money with this stuff. im located in NJ.

the tensioner is the same as a sohc version with a shim. i have one in box that is a Rich Deego version, its a sohc one with the shim welded and ground to be pretty. all the 16V engine parts are expensive. the timing belt alone is extremely hard to come by, the chrysler depot is all out, i managed to get 2 before they all got bought up because i posted the link to who had them when i needed one.

the whole dash needs the come out to replace the heater core. its a few hour job

id love to seee the jams or engine compartment for correct color

were any of them 16V 5spd cars Joe?

usually the trans is disconnected from the motor to do the pan or at least thats the easiest way

haha, good luck, lots of penetrate and from underneath with extensions and swivels. or remove engine and trans at once nad change and put back in.

looks like stock dipstick and if thats the case its too short thats why you are not getting a reading at the correct oil fill amount. the TCs dipstick is a different i think than the other chrysler motors at least it looks like to me when ive had it out but the blocks are the same as any chrysler 2.2L so theres a chance, take the dipstick with you and compare. if you go back to the stock pan long as the stock pickup is still in it theres no problem, if not you have to change back. stock pan is more desirable and harder to find at least thats what i know from being in the turbo chrysler world. you have to get the correct pan also, commonblock or non common block, if yours is a 90 and does not have an oil pump block block off plate on the front of the block then its a common block and you need a commonblock pan. ive had both, my 89 is non has the block off plate, my 90 was common, didnt have it. depended on early or late build

sounds like you have a common block deep sump pan that was used on the motors with balance shaft assembly the bottom is very flat and the square in shape dipping down lower (90+ 2.2l and 2.5l motors), not the older style pan that is on the motors like the 16V that do not have a balance shaft assembly. both my 89 and 90 16V both had the pan as in the picture you posted, the #s identifying the year block are on the block are along the back above where the pans mates to it, vin for car should he on the driver side of the head.. sounds like you may have the wrong dipstick as the one for a deep sump pan is longer than the one that is used on the shallow pans. a picture of your dipstick handle would verify if its the stock one or if it was replaced. long as the correct pick up is used with the correct pan no problem except lots of oil sloshing, most run a baffle set up to keep the oil near the pickup to ward off starvation should you go around a turn or something to that nature when using a deep pan and running no balance shaft assembly.

4.5 is the recommended fill on stock oil pan, im pretty sure ive run 5 most of the time without any issues in my other 2.2Ls but those had the large pan with balance shaft assemby and the TC does not have the deep pan