Brian_Heil

These parts (less the fenders that were over priced) are now at my home in Fenton 1208 miles later. Not nearly as far as Dandy Dave went for his stuff but far enough for me in 48 hrs. 4 wheel assemblies and the front mud apron have been spoken and paid for and will be delivered to South Bend. Who needs the other parts? Don't be shy! Someone called me asking about rear gas tank end covers and the little splash pans that go between the rear fender and the gas tank end covers. He has all of these too but they go with the rear fenders. $$$$ I feel better having seen what was left of the 'donor' car. Every scrap of wood in the Model 45 was gone, the body tub had been removed and left outside for decades but the chassis was in a barn. What the owner did with what was left (frame, rad, cowl, hood and shortened tub (it ended life as a farm truck like so many Buicks)) is really pretty cool. He took the stock frame and added a 60s Ford rear end that bolted right up to the existing Buick rear springs. Bolted up a Chevy truck straight axle up front also with no modifications as the spring perches on the axle also matched the Buick springs. (Both I find amazing but true). After market disc brakes up front to fit the chey truck spindles. He had an early 60s Chevy Truck straight six that he bored to 320 CID, high compression pistons, hot cam, and dual 2 bbl carbs, header with a cut-out. Roared like a beast. The best part is the rear boat tail is a cut and modified 40s Ford hood (backwards), what a great way to get that look on a budget. Chevy truck 4 speed too. I will post pix soon. He's 76 years young and works his construction business 6 days a weeks and wrenches on the Buick at night and has several other cars too.

Thank you for setting this Dinner up Mark! Yes, I will have After Tour handouts at the dinner. If you can't make the Dinner, no worries, just look me up at the Meet near the PWD Club House for After Tour info.. Cris and I will arrive Thursday afternoon, so the first I may see most of you is at the Dinner. Those going on the After Tour: You all made your room resevations in Fremont, Indiana? Right? If not, see the After Tour post at the top. Thanks again Mark! Brian

LAST CALL! On the reduced room rate at the Comfort Inn in Fremont, Indiana. After Thursday they may honor it, or they may not. More importantly, they release the block of rooms to the general public.

Why not a thin smear of your favorite gasket sealant on well cleaned surfaces?

Head Gasket? Something I don't have on my '23 so I would only be sharing 1950/60s head gasket knowledge so I will stay quiet, but a re-torque of the head and shop air (regulated) into the combustion chamber via the spark plug hole to see is you then build pressure to the cooling system? On thing I did have on my '23 that led to foaming was leaking water pump seals. They were sucking air at the pump shaft at speed and causing the coolant to foam and poor cooling too since the specific heat of air (ability to carry heat) is a fraction of that of coolant.

To answer the question on pusher fan and will it cause a blockage. The blades will 'windmill' due to the ram air at road speeds so no issue there but there will be a slight blockage due to the fan motor and legs. But at higher speeds this is not an issue as you have an excess of air flow. This issue is dealt with often on modern all electric fan cooled vehicles.

At highway speeds, you have more than enough (ram) air flow, unless one or both of your fans is backwards (hey it happens, is the puller pulling and the pusher pushing?) How did the vanes on the water pump impeller look? All there? In the correct direction and not backwards? And the belt is tight? Agree, about the classic signs of plugged core. Heat rejected to the coolant is proportional to the brake HP. At higher speeds, it takes more HP and you reject more heat. The cooling system can handle the heat rejection rate at 45 MPH (ie you have enough air flow, coolant flow and radiator dissipation capacity). Assuming good air and water flow at 55 then things point to the radiator not keeping up. Cars that won't cool in parades or at idle often suffer from a lack of air flow, you are not putting out any coolant flow to speak of so even your tired and plugged radiator can keep up with the low coolant flow and low heat dissipation load at idle but that half dead radiator needs more air flow to work so they add a pusher fan to cover up the radiator and solve the idle problem. The missing wire in the suction hose is a good one. You can do a 'poor man's flow check'. Remove both radiator hoses and stick a garden hose (full on) in the radiator, it should easily handle this amount of flow without burping back or building any pressure as you seal the garden hose at the top of radiator with your hand. The problem with plugged core paths is they stay plugged even as you try to flush things out. OK, 'war story' time. Engine would not cool, would only run a few minutes. Guy tried everything, even bought a new radiator. Engine even went back to re-builder where it again ran and cooled fine on their stand because they thought they had a 'friction issue'. I got a call, to please come look because he was ready to sell the car and his wife was ready to divorce him from all the stress. Car did overheat but the radiator was not that hot. Hmmm no flow, boiling the coolant in the engine only. Poking around, I found a plastic shipping plug from the re-builder stuffed in the water pump inlet, Re-builder put it there each time he had the engine done and on the pallet to keep the engine from dripping in his spotless shop. After I fixed his car I heard the guy continued to overheat and she left him. The other odd-ball I once found was an impeller that was perfect but was no longer attached to the shaft, the drive pin had sheared. Shaft and fan spun like hell, the perfect impeller just stayed put inside the pump. Pulling off the upper hose while running (and no flow) helped me find that one. Pump looked perfect on the bench. Always check to see if the impeller is attached to the shaft soundly, press fit, pin, whatever. You may laugh, but the toe of a panty hose over the engine out hose going to the radiator will catch all sort of stuff. Clamp it in there and leave it there for a hundred miles. Good trick to do on any old car you buy and cheap too. So is a garden hose back flush of the radiator. Buicks had a reputation for excellent cooling systems. If your car does not cool, there is something wrong, it's not due to a poor design or weak system.

I run the halogen bulbs from Restoration Supply Co.. They really do work well for those times you stay late and need to get home. You can actually see with them at night. They do draw about 10 amps each so depending on where you have your generator set you are running ~-16 amps total. I've run with this much draw for over two hours in a terrible storm on a tour and still had battery left. Not a problem for that 20 - 30 minute drive home from somewhere at all. I've also rewired my entire car too, I would not run this draw on the old wiring.

Wanted to give this one more push before I head to get these parts. Front (under radiator) Splash Pan has been spoken for, as have the 4 tire/rim/wheels also. Tom and I have also worked out a deal on the Top Rests I have. All the other parts are still available. I will not be bringing home the fenders due to the high cost from the seller (two parties were interested in them but not at the price I was having to pay (and I can't blame them)). I'll roll the dice and purchase the top iron set and the left and right rocker splash panels and maybe have a future buyer. I have no idea how these guys who haul a trailer full of parts around all summer to shows/meets make any money. One trip with two pre-paid buyers and I'm still way in the hole. Guess I'll keep my day job.

Getting ready to go get these parts. Wanted to give this one last push. Please see details on Pre-War Forum. Thx!

Jim Campbell is the expert in Perry, Michigan. Don't believe he frequents this site. Contact him via the BCA Roster.

Color Tour.

I thought I felt the Earth shake today. PWD After Tour Hotel Group Rate expires June 15th. See the PWD After Tour Post for more details. Thx Mark for the 'plug' and glad to hear you are on the mend from back surgery!

Please see my detailed post on the Pre War site and respond there. Thank you!

Tom. let me also dig around at my 'supplier', he may have a correct set and not even know it. It will be a few weeks until I visit.

Tom - I do have a set of top rests, (in fact forgot I had them until you asked, they came in a box of stuff 16 years ago when I got my car ). They look close/correct but I've never had them on my car. Let me dig them out and take some pix for you. The stem on the rests that goes into the body seems too large for my car too. If I remember correctly. Stem is 3/4 inch round, just measured it. Here are the pix. Mark Shaw may still have a set for a 1924 Model 45 from a parts car he has.

I've had some parts 'find me' so to speak. Here's what's available that I don't need and most importantly want to get in the hands of those who do. - All four fenders (have pix) some minor dents and surface rust but very serviceable, fronts include headlamp mounts - Lower Radiator Splash Pan that goes between the front fenders and covers the frame horns (have pix) - Both left and right side Splash Pan (body panel that goes between the running board and body) (have pix) - Top Irons - Looks to be complete set (have pix) - 4 Wheels/Rims/Hubs/Wedges complete 2 Front 2 Rear, tight and in good shape (have pix) - Front Axle Assembly less springs - 4 Coker 33x41/2 B.F. Goodrich Tires like new w/ flaps and tubes (have pix) Please send me an email to the address below and we can discuss your needs and prices. I'm not going to get rich on this stuff, just cover my 1200 mile gas to go shag it and a motel room + my cost (if I'm lucky). Can deliver to South Bend National Meet (and you West Coasters might be able to cut a deal with Mark Shaw who is trailering out to South Bend and back from Washington State for shipping and his fuel bill.) Plus I have trips planned to Winston-Salem, NC and Maryland and all points in between from Flint and could deliver or meet up part way.

I know of a set of complete roof irons for a 1923 Model 45 including the wood header. They will not fit the 35 but could be modified since everything on the 35 is smaller. Let me know what you think. The price was $150. The shipping cost would be awful I'm certain.

Please give me a private email at my address below and let's discuss further. Thx Brian

The After Tour block of rooms at the Comfort Inn in Fremont, Indiana at the reduced group rate go off the market on June 15th. See the post above. I have my reservation but was surprised at how few of you do. Signed, Your Thoughtful Tour Chairman :cool:

We often see/hear the not-so-good-stories of vendors and work, I wanted to put a 'plug' in for Jason and the fine work AER does. These are the only people you should be dealing with. Folks ship stuff there from all over and for good reason. I don't hand out free compliments very often but these guys get mine. Here's their info: www.aerrebuild.com We can restore, rebuild or repair any of the following items: Starters * Generators * Distributors * Starter / Generator Combo Units Regulators * Solenoids * Ignition Coils * Wiper Motors * Blower Motors Overdrive Solenoids * Sirens * Horns Window Regulators (Specializing in Manual) We specialize in the old, rare & unique. Superior Quality & Attention to Detail. Feel free to contact us with any questions. jason@aerrebuild.com<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

We often see/hear the not-so-good-stories of vendors and work, I wanted to put a 'plug' in for Jason and the fine work AER does. These are the only people you should be dealing with. Folks ship stuff there from all over and for good reason. I don't hand out free compliments very often but these guys get mine. Here's their info: www.aerrebuild.com We can restore, rebuild or repair any of the following items: Starters * Generators * Distributors * Starter / Generator Combo Units Regulators * Solenoids * Ignition Coils * Wiper Motors * Blower Motors Overdrive Solenoids * Sirens * Horns Window Regulators (Specializing in Manual) We specialize in the old, rare & unique. Superior Quality & Attention to Detail. Feel free to contact us with any questions. jason@aerrebuild.com

These folks are the only people to work with: Check out website @ www.aerrebuild.com We can restore, rebuild or repair any of the following items: Starters * Generators * Distributors * Starter / Generator Combo Units Regulators * Solenoids * Ignition Coils * Wiper Motors * Blower Motors Overdrive Solenoids * Sirens * Horns Window Regulators (Specializing in Manual) We specialize in the old, rare & unique. Superior Quality & Attention to Detail. Feel free to contact us with any questions. jason@aerrebuild.com

Agree. First rate people and work!

Will 1923 Buick Six Cylinder (Model 45) Rear Fenders Fit?