Brian_Heil

Well done!

Congratulations Dr. Doo Dah! (We have all wanted to check your papers for years!)

You can also block off the exhaust gas at the manifold with a small plate to solve the problem and not have to deal with the pipe/holes. I'd do both. Block the exhaust passage with a full plate gasket and press in a new pipe.

And I beleive the item shown is an aftermarket 'top end oiler'. You filled it with either engine oil or Marvel Mystery Oil, and the vacuum line attached drew the oil into the intake manifold (a very small amount of oil) to mix with the air/fuel to then lube the valves/guides to prolong their life. A fairly common item back in the day to add to your car to extend its life. Where does the copper pipe connect to?

The heat riser pipe inside the intake manifold tend to rust out and cause the carburetor air/fuel mixture to get diluted by exhaust gas. Very common problem. Mark Shaw, chime in here. Pull the carb. and check the pipe 1 3/4 in dia (?) internal to the manifold that is pressed in for rust thru holes. Get it out of there and press in a new one.

My parts being held by Larry just went up in price with his elevated celebrity status! Well done Joyce and Larry!

Atta-boy Marty, get out there and enjoy! Next week is the VMCCA Nickel Age Touring Group Annual Tour. This year's week long hub tour is out of Paris, KY (NE of Lexington). If anyone is looking for a fun Group to tour with, Contact me. We go every year and would never think of skipping it. Here's a fun pick from one of the Tour 'meetings'. I believe the quote was either 'What hat?' or 'That Ford chap has red hat envy'

Bill McLaughlin and me headed to the BCA National Meet in Rochester, Minnesota. This dealership was still open then, in the little town of Fox Lake, Wisconsin. I've heard it has since closed. Bill drove from Toronto, Ontario to Fenton, Michigan (20 miles south of Flint) to pick me up. The next day we drove from Fenton to Ludington, MI to catch the SS Badger the next morning, the next day we sailed across Lake Michigan to Wisconsin. Fox Lake is about 1/2 way across Wisconsin. It was about 95F out. I only travel with my top up when it really gets hot, and it was hot that trip. No trailers, no escort, just two good Buicks eating up the road. 500 miles one way for me, further for Bill. We had a great time. Cocktails, promptly at 5:00. Shaken, not stirred. Dinner at 6:00.

My Flint made 1923-45 has one. Bought my car with the little toggle lever switch stapped off. Made two toggle levers only to have those two knocked off over the years. Too many coolers, lawn chairs and kids (and too much fun along the way) passing right by the switch.

Tom is correct. On a related point, I have twice helped a person who's car would not cool well at road speeds. In both cases they had removed the mechanical belt driven fan and installed an electric 'puller' fan behind the radiator. (they did not want to keep the mechanical fan and add a 'pusher' fan in front of the radiator for esthetic reasons). The new electric 'puller' cooled great at low speeds and at idle. But at road speeds a new problem started, the car would over heat. Turns out in both cases the electric fan was wired backwards and was 'pushing' air from behind. As Barney mentioned above, at road speed, the ram air of the moving vehicle matches the 'pushed' air from the incorrectly wired fan resulting in no air flow. At idle, the incorrectly wired fan pushed lots of air to cool. Took me a while to find it but we found it. I've also seen a soft lower radiator hose collapse at road speed due to coolant pump suction and no spring in side the hose and a radiator with reduced flow (partially plugged) also helping with the high suction negative pressures.

Its listed in the Buick Master Parts Book. Sorry but mine is packed away.

They will get painted along with the stantions. Rather a shame like covering up a Renoir.

My sincere thanks to Larry Dibarry. His students are indeed fortunate to have someone of his character and capabilities! And we are all fortunate to have him in our club and forum.

Two old sayings here in the States, perhaps Down Under as well. 'Happy Wife, Happy Life' 'If Mamma aint happy, aint nobody happy' I made one of my two adjustment bolts from a regular brass bolt when I lost one. Just cut off the head and with a hack saw, cut the groove.

Rod, My band adjustment bolts look identical on my 1923 but are brass. Not sure if brass is correct but mine have not frozen up. Quiet? We went on a 7 day cruise to the Western Caribbean. Wonderful stuff. Just back. Carnival gave us a second cabin free so took the 22 and 24 year old daughters along with Mama. We had a balcony cabin. The girls were not in the engine room but they did have an interior cabin. If you want good service when out and about, take your wife and 2 daughters. The waiters hardly ever left our table. And here I thought it was my charm. Arrr matey, it's a pirates life for me.....

Let me know what I can do to help. Been through most everything on mine.

With today's octane fuels, you can run 7 degrees BEFORE top dead center with the retard lever fully retarded. I have been running this timing for over 16 years and 25,000 miles of touring. Make sure your timing advance weights are working within the distributor by reving the engine with the timing light hooked up and noting that the timing mark advances.

I agree with Mr. Shaw. Check your sping shackles. Sounds like your rear axle has jumped forward due to the shackles 'laying down'. As noted above, this can't happen on the 6's but it can on the 4's.

By my guess there are 300 pics on this disc. Im certain Lee W. would burn and mail a disc if properly compensated. Brian

And make sure the vent hole in the cap is open or your vacuum fuel pump (or any fuel pump for that matter) won't work. This vent hole being plugged was one of the reasons the fellow I bought my car from years ago sold it to me. He said it ran poorly after it warmed up. I figured it was a bad coil or condenser getting hot or a poor carb setting. Turns out it was this vent hole being plugged on the cap and after about a half hour of running the poor little vacuum tank was pulling so hard on the tank, I heard the fuel tank sides 'oil canning'. I also had the vacuum tank apart several times thinking it was it too. Got pretty good at taking that thing apart.

That was supposed to be 'Ray Brown'

This 23-44 belongs to 'Ray Broown' and was on the disc of 1923 info I mentioned in a previous post. Don't have my roster handy to look up Ray but have to assume he is in it since Lee W. who did the disc in not on the internet and works out of the roster to contact 1923 owners. Hope these help. Darn it. Once again the file is too big (which is why these pics are so nice) and won't load. Send me an email and I will email them to you.

I have some good pics of the same model of your car. Let me dig them up. Stay tuned.

OK, here goes Dr. Doo Dah. Let's see if I can post what I found. OK, just as I thought, they are all too large to insert. I will send you a couple of emails with them. Sorry folks. Brian

Dr. Doo Dah, How much on each? He has then installed, he has them torn down/going together? Every piece apart on a bench. You name it. Haven't gotten to pics of the rear/spare yet but I'm sure they are in there. You may want to get ahold of Lee and ask for a copy, there are hundreds of pics and I get stuck looking at most and don't get too far. More digging this weekend as I mentioned in my other post. Thx.