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Brian_Heil

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Everything posted by Brian_Heil

  1. The last year for rear only brakes (on a Buick) was 1923. This vehicle has front brakes, that makes it at least a 1924 or newer. What little I know is on 1923's and a few years before that. My wife may not even give me that much! Roberta is looking for a car to buy and take on the PWD After Tour!
  2. John Tarleton in Ohio has thousands. He has no email and no voicemail. Call, and if he's there, he will pick up. Wonderful gentleman (tell him I said hello). 330-332-0116
  3. I think we just heard from the first PWD rider! Heck, there's lots of time between now and July to pick up a nice PWD ride to add to your fleet Roberta! I know of a nice fellow from the West Coast who bought sight un-seen a 1925 on the way to the Minnesota National Meet and drove it on the PWD After tour.
  4. Had a great question asked about daily mileage for the After Tour. We will run 80 to 100 miles each day with the one day we run to Lansing, Michigan to see the R. E. Olds Museum we will run ~120 miles. No big grades to worry about either. (I once went on a Blue Ridge Mnt. Tour that was either 2nd and 1st gear long grade pulls, or 2nd and 1st gear downgrade Hail Marys for 5 days straight. The Buick did fine but near the end of the week I had an elderly couple in a Packard join us in the back seat. They were the nicest people from (flat) Indiana and he coined the term 'The White Knuckle Tour'.) We may encounter a mountain or two of food or ice cream!
  5. John, That's almost too funny. The two upper jugs I have came from Jay Barrett and sat in my fraternity Brother's barn in (Mt. Hermon) Massachusetts for 5 years before I got out that way to retrieve them this past Summer. Is this Jay or perhaps some of Jay's other parts 'calling me'? A complete engine and trans. is rather tempting. Can you email me some jpgs and prices? OK, what else do you have?
  6. I have always used the toe out of one of the Wife's panty hose captured in the upper radiator hose as it leaves the engine. Works like a charm. Don't forget to remove the wife first.
  7. This used, spare, upper cylinder block is still looking at me from the corner of my work shop. How many shopping days left until Christmas?
  8. For reasons unknown, the starter / generators do not interchange in the early 20's. There is a three digit code stamped in the casting of the S/G just above the Delco tag. This number is specific to year. There is also the full part number stamped near this number too. Whether the brush plate you seek interchanges is a good question, I don't know. But the Precision Power people noted above would. I know for a fact the 22 to 23 to 24 S/G's do not interchange.
  9. Ref the post of mid August on 1921 Starter / Gen. Precision Power in Lansing, MI, USA can help you. First rate work. Google them.
  10. Just a note of thanks to Mark Shaw for helping me get the Tour notice posted and the 2008 After Tour 'off the ground'. I would also like to encourage any and all PWD Members and Future/Potential PWD Members to join us for the After Tour, especially those who may be a little timid about Touring. We will have numerous 'seasoned' Members present to assist you should you have a vehicle issue. I am always amazed how quickly BCA'rs come to the rescue, or stay up late with a hotel parking lot repair or volunteer to drive that needed part across the state. If you think about it, an organized Tour with lots of BCA friends is the best possible situation should you have a problem and require assistance. I would also encourage any PWD Members who may be in need of a 'Tour seat' due to their car not being ready or on the other side of the Country or Pond to please contact me. A good navigator is hard to come by! Honestly, my Buick rides better with the back seat full. And by all means, bring the kids and grandkids to share in the fun! Looking forward to meeting many of you this July!
  11. FOR SALE: 1964 Buick Special conv. Red/ white top complete car, ran when parked. will need to be restored. 300 alum. nailhead. auto trans. fairly straight body, with some rust. spare rear bumper in good condition. spare 300 nailhead/ cast iron. Motor has AC.comp. PWR steering, ALT. and all brackets, and belts!NOS! spare automatic trans NOS. Its a cool car, but Iam getting married, and the projects must go. The car is located outside Metro Detroit. Accepting offers of 1500.00 (fifteen hundred) and greater. 734-709-6996 734-216-4487 pics. by request only. Just like your offers. Its a real nice car. (Posting this for my Nephew, contact him at the numbers above)
  12. RCH III, I copied your posting and put it on the BCA site too. Uncle B.
  13. I concur with Mark Shaw, in fact, until I learned the 'habits' of my engine I had similar poor hot re-start issues. My poor starting hot/warm was related to the fuel petcock and forgetting to close it if I parked for more than a short period of time. If I remember to close it and then open it for the re-start, the engine starts on the first rotation. If I let things leak out, it's a bear to start hot. The magic time period for my engine is about a half hour. Any stop longer than that and I need to shut the valve to get a good re-start. My carb does not leak while running but is does drip into the little pan when not running.
  14. Welcome aboard! Make sure to make contact with Mark Shaw who lives out your way and is a regular contributor to this forum as well.
  15. You could hook up a temporary gravity fuel supply from a gas can and determine if the issue is fuel starvation assuming the new source you supply has good volume/flow.
  16. For a period of time (six years) I was responsible for the approval of the 'factory fill' motor oils released at the Buick Engine Plant #36 and also used/required in all our vehicle and dyno tests at Buick Product Engineering in addition to my other release responsibilites in the Base Engine Design Group. The Shell data was so far off the others we had the Lab run it again. Same results. We had significant debates as to whether we should validate with Shell because it was so far below the rest yet made the API spec.. I have no data or experience with Rotella, only Shell as a company that produced a bare minimum Fire and Ice product when everyone else produced a far superior product. To me, that said something about the company as a whole and still does. The oil we did use was Mobil (non synthetic). It was based on bulk cost more than anything (and that its performance was similar to all the others except Shell) when you buy it by the rail car tanker full. We would draw off 55 gallon drums full from the tanker at the engine plant and truck them down to the engineering building for use so we tested with the exact same thing that went out the door of the plant. Interesting additional fact, we had similar results on Shell gasoline tests also.
  17. The inner cones and outer races are perfect and must be hard as heck. I'll opt for new balls (thanks any way Mark)and see if I can keep from messing up the retainers/keepers that hold them. Will keep you all posted.
  18. Of all the name brand non synthetic motor oils tested (something like 30) by the GM Fuels and Lubes Dept several years ago, guess which brand came in a distant last? Shell. Did it meet the API requirements? Yes. First place? Texaco Havoline. Every other name brand was within test error of a tie for a very close second behind Havoline. Shell was a very distant third, specifically their Fire and Ice product line of the time. Are all current API approved motor oils far superior to the oils of the 20's/30's/40's/50's/60's/70...? For certain. Since they all cost about the same, I'll let you guess which brand I don't buy.
  19. OK, a number of us have tried to find the front ball bearing type wheel bearings for 1920's Buicks with little or no success, me included. If someone is sitting on a pile of them, they aren't giving in. These same people have bought up all the good cheap cigars and bourbon too. In my case, the inner and outer cups are in good shape, it's just my balls that have a few chips and cracks (Mark Shaw will have a Field Day with that comment)but the retainer or sometimes called 'race' that holds the balls is fine too. The engineer in me says I should be able to purchase new, loose, ball bearings of the correct diameter (after measuring several of my good ones) and carefully remove the old worn balls from the race and install the new ones. The assumption is I don't mangle the race in the process. What say yee fellow Buick-ites? A brief comment on the rear wheel bearings for at least a 1923 while I'm at it. They are a standard double row ball bearing off-the-shelf at the local machine/bearing supply house. Early ball bearings where all German and hence metric and still that way today and these early bearing sizes are still the main family / size of bearings in use. I got mine at wholesale cost by giving the counter clerks at the bearing supply house a ride in the Buick, noisy bearings and all. They thought they had gone to old car heaven. Don't pay triple the cost for these bearings from 'an old car bearing source'. He just buys them from the corner just like you can for 1/3rd his price. Reminder, that big honkin' nut that holds the rear bearing on is left-hand thread on the left side of the car. And no need to pull the wheel hub off the axle shaft inside the hub cap on a '23 (that;s a lefty too on the left side), just remove the six acorn nuts on the outside of the hub and pull the whole hub and shaft out as an assembly. Ah, the joy of free floating axles and no retainer clips inside the differential.
  20. Terry W. was kind enough to send several 1923 wedges my way to replace a number of cracked ones I had a couple of years ago. I know that's not what you were hoping to hear. Not sure how many more he may have. If you have odd wedges but they get the clamping job done, you could still balance the wheel. I did so with standard/modern wheel weights attached to the back (inboard) side of the rim and a simple spin test on the front spindle with the wheel in the air. The same 'heavy spot' settled to the bottom every time and I added weights opposite. Don't laugh but it made a big difference and with a bit of trial you can really get it balanced. Correcting this imbalance on the front made for a vibration free ride. The guy at the tire store gave me a handful of weights for free when I drove up there with my Buick and told him what I wanted to do.
  21. Take the pan off, scrape out all the gunk from the years of use of no-detergent oil, plasti-gauge your rods while you are in there and then use a name brand detergent oil. Then pick up your non detergent oil friends and take them for a ride.
  22. Precision Power Inc. Lansing, Michigan People send them work from all over the country. I have heard excellent reports. Long time Hemmings advertiser. http://www.precision-pwr.com
  23. A simple pull/tug on the commutator will tell you if your rear bearing is in poor condition. My guess: Are you 100% certain the starter is still motoring as the pinion gear extends and not just when at rest prior to pushing the starter pedal? Without the rotation of the 'motoring' still happening as the two gears meet, clash is terrible and you are right, you can't get the (damn) thing to engage and your friends all look at you like 'oh my, I thought he knew a thing or two about old cars'.
  24. Fred, I too have read the Dave Chambers article about running 0.040 gap but I have run 0.025 for years. My thought being the Mallory coil I have is at least 60 years old and the smaller gap would help. (?) Next time I take them out I do plan to open them up to 0.040 and see she how she runs. Had the pleasure to stop in and visit with Jim Milewski at his home in Rome, NY two weeks ago and help him set his timing to 14 degree more advance than stock. His '23 purred like a kitten when I left. Prior to the tune-up his spark was so far off he had a severe knock at idle.
  25. The correct graphite impregnated 'rope' water pump packing material from Restoration Supply Company makes all the difference. 20,000 miles of touring and no leakage.
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