Brian_Heil

Dr. Doo Dah, How much on each? He has then installed, he has them torn down/going together? Every piece apart on a bench. You name it. Haven't gotten to pics of the rear/spare yet but I'm sure they are in there. You may want to get ahold of Lee and ask for a copy, there are hundreds of pics and I get stuck looking at most and don't get too far. More digging this weekend as I mentioned in my other post. Thx.

Dr Doo Dah, Still looking for your pics. Will be this weekend before I can get to it. Tried once and got side tracked looking at other stuff on the disc. :confused: As mentioned above, if some of you want a copy of the disc I would contact Lee directly. I would also $uggest you cover his postage, disc cost and time too. Thanks.

If your buddies are in the BCA Roster then they should have gotten one. If not BCA'rs shame on them. If they are not, they should contact Lee via your roster and send him some cash for the disc and Postage.

OK. Let me do some digging on the disc One bit of 1923 trivia. Buick produced it's millionth car that year. OK so you knew that eh? But did you know that after number one million they moved the rear tail light from the left of center to centered within the rear tire? Now you do.

Awww, shucks. Thanks Brother. The problem is, I don't always sign-in and because of that, I don't see the PM's/Notifications. How's that rod bearing coming? Touring season will be here before you know it. My Nickel Touring Group (VMCCA) has their tour this year in Paris, KY. Week of June 15th. Let me know if you want an invite. Great group, lots of fun. Week long hub tour.

Lee Wangerin sent most 1923 owners a disc of all the areas of his 1923-49 as it was rebuilt. This car was bought new by his grandfather and Lee did a full resoration and this disc has (I'm guessing since I've not gotten to them all) several hundred pictures of every aspect of the car. If you need a pic of something on a 1923 6 cylinder open car, let me know. Lee is not on the internet. Send me an email request since I don't sign in to this site as often as I could/should. Thanks

The single door to the left of the double door when facing the garage. Drifting and snowblower 'thrown'. On a different note. Lee Wangerin sent many of us '23 owners this week a detailed disc of every part of his 23 7 passenger touring. Lee is not on the internet. This car was his grandfather's, purchased new, and very correct. If anyone needs a pic of something 'correct' on a '23 six cylinder, just let me know. To give you an idea of the detail and number of pics on this disc, there are 6 pics of just the footrest as he rebuilt it.

Hey, things are looking up. Front Rooow. Summer. Ahhh. That's a nice thought, good ol' Summer. The pile of snow in front of the Buick's gararge door is piled up 6 ft high.

To further confuse our readers . . . . I have ridden in the back of Larry Schramm's truck and for that matter in the back of Mark Shaw's truck too. (Come to think of it, when do I get to sit up front?) No footrests but then you can swing your feet off the tailgate. And they in turn have ridden in the front and back of my Buick. And Larry S. has ridden in the backseat of Larry D's '37. Not sure if the '37 has a footrest. I'm actually going somewhere with this. Sharing rides on a tour or even just an afternoon visit and ride is a great way to meet new friends or visit. Footrests optional.

I'm not sure what I did but glad I helped. A hug from Dr. Doo Dah is a bit, well, frightening. It is kind of funny since my car has never had a footrest as long as I've owned it. With all the gear and luggage I tend to travel with including most often a large cooler, I think I understand why someone removed it years ago. Speaking of cooler, how's your weather everyone? I know, sorry I asked. About ready to change my signature line to Cabin Fever, Michigan Come to think of it, a ride in Larry's car or Dr. Doo Dah's with my feet up sounds pretty good. 'Once around the park Terrance. That's a good chap.'

Be careful of this 'high temp' coolant. Sure it won't boil but what happens to the engine oil film thickness at these higher temps? The oil is hotter than the coolant in a running engine. At the higher temps the engine oil performance is greatly reduced. Also the thermal clearances at high temps like piston to bore and valve stem to guide etc..

Mmmmmm Bacon! Somewhere I read a story where they drained the pan on a Model T tipped it on its side. Used leather from a belt Replaced the pan an oil and continued on. On one of the first tours I was on, a fellow Buick owner lost a rod bearing. He pulled the rod and piston and the two push rods and toured on 5 cylinders for the rest of the week.

For an extra 5 points: What does Ma have in the jug? Remember, this picture was taken in 1927, right in the heart of Prohibition here in the U.S..

The hood with the sharp edge at the beltline and the radiator with the center point pointing downward started in 1924, so it is at least a 1924 or newer. Prior to '24 it was a rounded hood and a 'square' radiator opening. The fender bead and the headlamps will be the other clues for someone better than me at this to get you the exact year.

I agree with Mark. I have to turn off my valve between the SW vac. tank and the carb. for parking greater than an hour or the whole SW vac. tank volume of fuel will end up leaking out of the carb and into the catch tray Buick designed to catch these leaks. Could I fix this with a viton seal on the carb. float needle? Sure, if I had a viton needle the correct size, etc.. The good news is, when you open the valve for the next start, there's plenty of fuel still in the SW vac. tank to feed the carb. and not make you crank and crank to get fuel back up to the engine. I've enjoyed the carburetor discussions. I'm currently working on a 1960 CJ5 Willys and the little Carter Carb. on it. Just rebuilt it. What I found inside was really a mess, last guy must have rebuilt it with an axe and a rock. Everything bent or in backwards if they could force it. Now it purrs. And Brother Doo Dah, I would only 'coin' you. I'd say $0.25 worth from a 5# sledge would get your attention.:cool:

I've seen this car for sale some time ago. Not certain if this is the same seller or what the price was before. I've seen really nice closed cars that are ready to go for 3 times this cost and in my opinion you would be way ahead $$$ wise walking away from this one if you had to have a closed car.

As Mark Shaw can attest, I had an axle / hub joint loosen up on the BCA Pre War Division After Tour this past Summer. In my case, I could feel this joint slip as I pulled away from a stop, like a bad universal joint ‘slip then catch’ feeling in the seat of your pants.<O:p></O:p> Upon inspection after Lunch (important to eat first on Tours), we found the large axle nut loose and the tapered hub/shaft joint very greasy. We cleaned everything up and could see that the shaft had been welded up years ago and then the taper and keyway re-cut. So, not the first time this joint had gotten loose in the life of my car. Also, the taper machining looked pretty poor and we guessed it did not match the hub taper very well. More on that next.<O:p></O:p> With things clean, Mark fabricated a soft aluminum shim out of a soft drink can to help with the tapers matching, wrapping the taper but not the key with a single piece of the can. My key and keyways still looked OK (I caught the issue very quickly) although not great due to what I would guess as 60 year old welding and machining repairs. We tightened the nut with a huge breaker bar and me standing on it. Also important is the star eared washer under the head of this nut, with the locking ears you turn up, which was missing on my car. My thanks to Bill McLaughlin for donating one to the cause out of his magic trunk of parts he carries (I believe I still owe him several cocktails, OK, one for Mr. Shaw too).<O:p></O:p> Another day of Touring, a 180 mile blast home from the Tour, and a Summer of touring and the joint is still tight. Also important is that this happened on a Tour with more good help then you could buy. Just look at this Tour Help List: Several Supervisors (very important) and they can create shade if you position them properly Picnic Table Movers to create a workbench Soft Drink Can donator Shim Fabricator Cleaning Rag donator Huge Breaker Bar lender Huge Socket lender Locking Washer donator Hand Cleaner donator My thanks again to all who helped!

Looking at those pics again, I'm concerned about the rust streaks running down the side of the block. Something has been leaking. The best you can hope for is a bad head gasket (new in '24 is a removable head and therefore a head gasket). The worst, a cracked block or water in the cylinder hydro-locking the engine and bending rods. The freeze plugs that can be seen look tight.

I don't see the fan and tensioner either.

Wonderful! Jacket and tie required after 5 at the Club. Should any members of your '29 Group need some pics or eyes on the parts, send them my way. No idea how long they will be there. Cheers Brian

I like it Don. Simple works for me and sounds like for you too, in this case, since 1967.

Welcome to the Forum! Make sure you also join the BCA if you have not done so already. The '39 Boys will take good care of you. The rumor that many of them email from prison is yet unfounded.

Larry brings up a good point and one that is a little scary too. I've seen two fuel related old car fires. Both were related to electric fuel pumps and the fact that their minimum pressure is more than the old carburetor and float/needle can handle. A vacuum fuel tank 12 inches above a Marvel carburetor creates about a third of a PSI in pressure. No electric pump or regulator can get you that low. Electric pumps exceed the inlet fuel pressure a vacuum tank type carb. was ever designed for. For those who were not reading car magazines in Chemistry or Physics class while they were asking what's-her-face to be their lab partner, let's do the math. 1 PSI = 27.67 inches of water Gasoline is ~75% as heavy as water Let's assume the highest point the fuel level in your vacuum tank ever gets is mid-way, and from there to the top of the Marvel where the needle valve is, is 12 inches. Measure your car and plug in your own number. (1 PSI/27.67 in H2O) x 12 in H2O = 0.43 PSI but gasoline is 75% the density of water so 0.43 PSI x 0.75 = .33 PSI No wonder that 1 PSI pump is a causing gasoline past the float needle valve and into the carb. circuit causing flooding and rich running; it’s 3 times what the pressure should be. Worse, it can be forcing fuel out the vent on the top of the carb. bowl too, just looking for something to ignite it. How did you all wire that pump? To the ignition? Get in a crash and everything stops but that pump you wired that keeps running if you don't turn off the ignition. You need to either ground it through an oil pressure idiot light switch that shuts off when there is no oil pressure (but also give it cranking circuit electricity and a diode so the pump does not engage the starter) or run it off the charging side of the generator with a diode too so the battery does not keep things running. But, you all get my point. Or, fix that vacuum tank and be smart like Larry!

Bill McLaughlin, this has your name all over it and just a few miles South of my house. Aren't you due for a visit? Cocktails promptly at 5:00, then dinner at the Club. Oh, and we better go have a look at that chassis in Howell too.

I'ver heard several times there is a Holden's aluminum piston from the 50's that is very popular and very available (like asking for a small block Chevy piston in the States) that is a drop in for the Buick 6's from our era. Correct wrist pin diameter, bore (plus over sizes), and good compression height (pin center to top of piston) in a 'modern' aluminum piston/ring pack. How about it Mates? Anyone have the info. down under? (I may even write it down this time!)