lozrocks

Forget all of your fancy mould removers. On any porous surface the best product is white vinegar. Not the cheap imitation but pure distilled white vinegar. The local supermarket should sell it. Do not scrub the mould. Simply spray it on and leave it. Generally a 70 to 80% solution with water will work but I prefer to use it straight. On the seats, spray it in a hidden area first. I've not known vinegar to damage any material, but it's wise to be safe. The vinegar will kill the mould. Once the mould is dead you can simply wipe away any trace.

I use 125 weight in my gearbox and it works very well. I've tested many different grades of oil and found the 125 the best. The 600weight oil available over here is absolutely useless in my gearbox.

Does this help?

The steel of the body should come down in line with the lower edge of the visor. The windscreen winds up to sandwich between the outer skin and the inner trim panel. The rubber strip will mount to the inside of the outer skin. Many of the all steel bodies still had timber here although the above photo is of a steel over timber bodied car.

I believe Blue Heaven was a one off aftermarket modification for Eddie Cantor who was the star of a musical on Broadway. The musical was either called My Blue Heaven or at least featured the song of that name.

The rubber strip and J strip is mounted on the header board which is at the top of the windshield but on the outside of the screen. The header board holds the windscreen wiper and the front visor on my car. The crank mechanism should be on the inside of the screen.

It's quite common for the fan to be mounted the wrong way around. The fan turns clockwise when viewed from the front so to drag air through the radiator the leading edge needs to be closest to the radiator.

JRA, You need to check the price of 2 pack rubber mix in Brazil first. The photo above shows 8 insulators but the pairs are tied together. Here's one insulator shown from 2 angles. When installed they are folded over the end of the spring and sit in the spring cups. They are easy enough to change. Some like to put up a fight but mostly they just slip in. They are not easy to manufacture and you may find it cheaper to purchase the Steele Rubber kit. I tried to make my own back in the 80's but in the absense of a good quality mould mine looked like s%$t. Plus there was a lot of waste. The rubber mix comes in a 20litre drum and from memory I used about 1 litre and the drum cost about $100 back then. Loz

The spring insulators for a Chrysler 75 look like these. There are 4 different insulators.

The brass tag identifies the model of vehicle or engine the carb was fitted to. C for Chrysler and D for Dodge, my carb has C75 with a 6 under it. The 6, I believe, refers to the jets installed. I have seen carbs with C75, C6, DA, DB and D6 tags. Export Chrysler and Dodge vehicles were commonly fitted with the Carter or Ball and Ball carbs, Strombergs and Tillotsons because the original carbs were too big to fit next to the steering box. E and F refer to industrial engines. The railway museum in Queensland has a 1930 forklift fitted with a Dodge industrial engine and Ball and Ball BB1 carb. It's tag is E6 with 6 underneath it. Military ground support equipment (Air Force tow motors) with Dodge engines were prefixed with M.

The 56 Ford Truck will look good that colour!

Fender/Horn bracket assy looks correct. Unknown panel? I'm going to go out on a limb here - I'm pretty confident that it doesn't fit your car, anywhere. I don't recall anything like that around the dash.

Personally, converting to 12volt is a good idea. Not expensive and easy. I converted my Chrysler 75 to 12volt years ago. I agree that battery technology today is far better than 1930, and the biggest mistake people make is to install incorrect wiring in their vintage vehicle, but manufacturers didn't step up to 12volts and 24volts for the fun of it. I went to 12volt because I couldn't find anybody to rebuild a 6volt generator properly. Having thrown the solder three times in four years, I finally imported a rebuild unit from the USA (which also died in 8 months). I then installed a 12volt alternator. Plus I found that 6volt batteries don't have the same longevity as 12volt batteries. Couple that with better starting, better performance, better reliability, more powerful lights and more readily available parts, I figured it was a no brainer.

As far as I am aware there is no such thing as 100% stainless. The best quality stainless on the market today will rust. You just have to look around the local boat yard to see rusty stainless. If the problem is only surface it can be polished out with some fine wet and dry or even some 00 steel wool with mineral oil. Stainless is the same material all the way through so the rusty area can be ground down a bit and then polished.

Very familiar! and the float is the most likely the problem. You will need to check the operation of the needle and seat, and the float.

This is a JR5A, curently on eBay. The JR3A is the same only with smaller throat I think. old Tillotson JR5A updraft Carburetor 1BBL 1929 Chevrolet 6 1930 1931 Universal | eBay

VSCCA 1934 Chrysler CA Coupe.

One edge of the split ring has a recess. This allows a small tyre lever to be inserted. I find it easier to cut a piece of timber the diameter of the wheel to act as a fulcrum. That way you lever off the timber not the wheel. Once the first edge is slipped out it's just a matter of slowly working around the wheel lifting the ring. You may need two tyre levers to get it started. The big mistake many people make is to work a small amount of the ring free and then grab it by hand and pull the ring out. This only stretches the ring or distorts it out of shape. The idea of the timber is to sit across the face of the wheel to protect the spokes and the paint. You could also cut a round piece of plywood with a hole in the centre to assist.

I think that is only true in the USA isn't it? The terms of Veteran and Vintage have been around for decades originating in the UK. They are still widely used across the world. I thought the term of modern classic applied to cars manufactured after January 1st 1970 up to the thirty year rolling date. For today that would be April 1982. Laurie

That would tend to indicate to me that the wheel slave cylinder has seized. A very common problem with brakes that aren't used on a regular basis. You should be able to back the shoes off (adjust) to give enough clearance to roll the car.

There were a number of specialist body builders around the world. This speedster style was quite common and most of then are worth more than factory cars. Just look at the price of a Moonlight Speedster bodied car these days.

I don't know of any early Dodges and Chryslers with Australian bodies that have a chassis numbers. Back in the day the vehicles were identified by the engine number. And oddly there are some Budd bodied Dodges that also don't have chassis numbers. Most of us have to stamp a number on the chassis to get it registered these days.

I agree with your mum. Many young people start rebuilding a car but loose interest, especially when a girl comes along. When I was your age, I had the benefit of a father and older brother who were both heavily involved in rebuilding old cars. They talked me into an old car but a daily driver. In the day a seventenn year old Chrysler Royal. I loved it and also rebuilt it as I drove it. Great fun and the best of both worlds. In Australia, the 60's and 70's Mopars are the flavour of the decade. There is also a glut of early Mustangs on the market that aren't selling, so a bargain maybe available. The other thing to do is pick up a copy of Just Cars. (or go online) Have a look for cars in your price range and see what you fancy. Laurie

You need to join the forward look forum. More info on your car there. The Aussie 58 Destoto's were the same as the US model. Imported as CKD and assembled in Adelaide. Only 91 came into Australia I think, and they were assembled along side the unique Australian Chrysler Royal. All 57, 58 and 59 models used the same RHD dash to cut down on costs.

It all sounds easy doesn't it? Practice is always the key, drive your car more often and learn from each gear change. I personally believe that 3 seconds for a gear change is too long. As well, Its not easy for a layman to recognise whether the gears are over-running or under-running when they crunch. Every car is different. The other thing to consider is do you have the correct lubricant in the gearbox?