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Everything posted by lozrocks

  1. If the car will sit at idle in the driveway for an hour and not overheat, what happens when you bring the revs up whilst sitting in the driveway? 30mph is not exactly a heavy load on the engine.
  2. The question is in regard to a pre war vehicle. That's pre 1939. I was under the impression that Chrysler's fluid drive came into being during 1939. Were there other gearboxes prior to this that used 6V solenoids? The other point is that 1950's 6 volt air conditioners were very large and very inefficient. Since we are fitting an a/c we aren't worried about originality. So surely the smart thing to do is to fit a modern compressor.
  3. If you are going to fit an air conditioner to a pre war car would it not be smarter just to convert the car to 12 volt. It's very simple and very cost effective. In the long run it will be cheaper, and think of the thousands of systems available to you.
  4. It all comes down to the mighty dollar. Car manufacturers are not concerned about how easy or economical it is to repair a car, only on how cheap they can make the process of manufacture.
  5. You will need to manufacture a temporary connector and light fitting to replace the existing front turn signal lights. So if electrical work isn't your strong suit you're in trouble. Since the front lights have been removed from the bumper and already have the correct fittings I'd be trying to reconnect the original lights. Because they don't need to be seen you can wrap them in a rag (or similar) and just tape them into a secure position. That way they are protected and won't get damaged.
  6. Quite often the suppliers to car companies used more than one manufacturing plant. Paints especially were shipped from the closest point to save costs. An example being in Australia paints were supplied by Berger and BALM, and although the paint colours used the same name there were some differences in the finished colour from both suppliers. The paint codes in the Ditzler sheet appear to be two different types of paint. "poly" generally refers to Polyurethane paint which I thought came into prominence during WW2 and "QDE" refers to Quick Drying Enamel which is the more common paint of the thirties. Is it possible that the west coast cars were all painted with poly paint and Detroit cars with enamel?
  7. I spotted this on eBay. Family of past owner is looking for the new owner of 1928 Chrysler. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1928-Chrysler-62-Info-PLEASE-HELP-/171890067624?hash=item28057248a8&vxp=mtr
  8. Okay! Interchange is the wrong word. Total replacement. Remove the backing plate and all the brakes from a 75 and it will bolt on to a 72 diff.
  9. The rear windows will wind down about half way. The instrument cluster shown is for a Chrysler 75. The body however is not Charlie's 75 body, but appears to be a 1930 Chrysler 70.
  10. I'm going to say that the brakes should interchange. The front axle off a 72 is the same as a 75 so you should be able to exchange outboard of the king pin without too much drama. The diff appears to be the same as well. At least it has the same external dimensions, so worst case just swap over the complete diff from a 75.
  11. Detergent oils require a full flow oil filter. As in all of the oil passes through the filter prior to be circulated through the engine. Detergent oils keep the dirt, and whatever other particles it collects, in suspension while the oil is hot and the filter removes these particles so your engine is kept clean. With some effort the earlier chrysler/dodge engines can be modified with a full flow filter if you aren't too worried about originality.
  12. Post Office will sell you a money order in US dollars. They are linked with Western Union and it will cost about $5 and the exchange rate of the day sent. In regards to the spare tyre location. I have to admit I have never noticed.
  13. 1939 the body should be Richards built if it was built in Australia and will have TJR stamped into the firewall. Only the chassis and mechanicals were imported and these came from Canada. Late 1939 early 1940 Richards retooled for military production and cars were fully imported. I was under the impression that the imports still came from Canada at that time. With that body number your car may be a US built Chrysler that was converted after import.
  14. I had a similar incident 12 months ago when visiting the USA. I took the note to the bank teller, and he looked up the serial number. His words"Because you are the first to bring the note in you get a nice new note. Whoever has the other part misses out." The serial number must be all there and the note not signed off for destruction.
  15. Excellent information. But I believe the carburetor was not designed by Carter. Carter took control of Ball & Ball Carburetors in 1929 and continued to produce the Ball & Ball basic designs of which the BB1 is one. Carter made some improvements to design and patented the new design in 1930. There are examples of the B&B1 dated as early as 1928.
  16. My car is a 1929 Model 75 and I'm just up the road. I've sent a PM with my phone number.
  17. In 1929 Chrysler had the 65, 75 and Imperial 80. I have a 75 and I am just up the road in Chain Valley Bay.
  18. The body does appear to be a 66. On the body tag, the model should read 3066, but in many cases with Holden they got a bit lazy with the stamp. Odd that it actually fits the early chassis.
  19. For which model? I had a quick look at some of your posts and you seem to have numerous different years and models.
  20. All 1926 Chrysler bodies for export were made in Canada. Richards was making bodies for Dodge but not Chrysler. The relationship between Richards and Chrysler started in 1928, although very few Chrysler bodies were made until 1933.
  21. I've seen a couple of Ford Mainline utes from the fifties and they all had the X frame chassis. I would assume it to be for strength, as these utes were work horses.
  22. You will have to define what you mean by body badge as well. The 75 has three exterior badges one on each headlight and one on the rear fuel tank cover.
  23. Without shocks, the ride is fine as long as you stay under 15mph. Over that the ride becomes a little hairy. Especially a sedan, your back seat passengers will get seasick. I've got a 1929 75 that I have modified with telescopic shocks. Now that's a fine ride! but not original.
  24. Yes Gary is still in business. I received a delivery about 8 weeks ago. He is very slow to respond, if at all, because he gets flooded with emails. I found the best way is to find what you want in the catalog and send in his form with the money. He refunds any over payment for shipping.
  25. In every case where I have assisted with vaporlock the fuel lines have been incorrectly routed. The most common problem is restorers wanting to install loops or S bends in the fuel line for stress relief or to make the fuel look better. The fuel line needs to be routed so that the vapor bubble can flow and not be trapped in the line.
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