lozrocks

shock absorber, modified to act as steering damper. Mine had something similar.

I can't place it on a 75.

Any body able to tell me the correct part number for the headlight lens for a 1929 Chrysler 75? I'm going to have a search thru some lenses on the weekend and hopefully will find the correct lens.

Your best bet is a 12volt to 6 volt step down converter that will supply 30 amps. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Waterproof-DC-DC-Converter-Regulator-12V-24V-Step-Down-to-6V-30A-180W/141929142470?hash=item210ba2d8c6:g:IlsAAOSwz2pfQ05B This will do the job. There are 40 amp units available as well if you need more grunt. Do not use a resistor. It just becomes a fire hazard.

The cars I know of use the same handle that opens the golf club door on the side.

The small door is unlocked with the handle underneath. The large door is unlocked with a removable handle. It should have a U shaped handle to pull the door open. The locking bolt protrudes from the large door into the small door. The small door has two lock bolts which engage with the sides of the car.

I've seen a lot of the top handles on Australian built cars. It could be that the top handle was used by TJRichards, and the bottom handle US built cars.

Not really possible to tell because of the angle of the camera. In each photo the seat closest to the camera will always appear larger.

I 've always thought it was a fifty/fifty split, or a one piece. I don't think the roadster came out with different sized swabs.

I run a blanking disc in my 1929 '75'. I have found that it makes absolutely no difference to running temperature. When I first put my car on the road I fitted (what I thought) a brass welsh plug behind the water pump. The engine was fitted with one when I dismantled it. The welsh plug rusted out. (so much for supposedly being brass) I ran the car for about ten years without one. On the last rebuild I fitted a stainless steel plug. Its been running fine since then. But I don't see any difference in running temperature.

What a great read! Some very interesting insight into people's thoughts on restoration. I have found in my last two rebuilds that when I get near the end I start to loose focus. I start to question myself about whether or not nuts and bolts are tight, or whether I have missed something. Is everything together? What is going to fall off as I drive down the road?

There are different capacity flasher cans available. From memory the common modern units are 18W and 21W. Older units are marked in candle power being 24CP, 32CP and 40CP. You need to match the flasher can to the bulb size.

Even today, bigger engines demand bigger batteries. So fairly obviously a Chrysler battery would be much bigger than a Ford battery.

The original battery fitted neatly in the battery box. The threaded rod was to secure the battery. There is enough movement in the battery box to clamp onto the battery.

The LED turn signals for most motorcycles require negative ground. The circuit inside is generally potted and very difficult to modify. Unfortunately it will be a gamble as to whether the particular type you want will work. Maybe try contacting the manufacturer first.