Mark Shaw

I agree with the previous posts. Check the size of your battery cables. If one or both have been replaced with 12 volt cables, they are too small. You need 6 vold battery cables that are much heavier to carry double the amps.

Yes, you may notice a small loss of turning radius after taking up the play.

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/340606693.html

Next time it happens, remove the gas cap to see if the vent is plugged. If it is, it will make a sucking sound when you remove the cap.

I too suggest you do an Internet search for "towing limits". But the quick answer is to add the weight of your trailer and car to find the maximum load you will be towing. In your case it would be about 4,000# maximum with an open car trailer. Look up the tow limit on your truck and you will know where you need to go from there. Just about any half ton pickup should tow your Essex on an open trailer. Just be sure you do not exceed the load limit of the tow vehicle by including anything else you will be carrying...people, tools, swap meet purchases, etc...

No, I have only run the 3077 plug, and yes I do gap them at .040.

Your Riviera has plenty of power, so a slight loss due to thin air should not be enough of a problem to warrant replacement jets.....unless you are towing a trailer, etc.

I agree that bead blasting a low pressure should not adversly effect your springs. However, it will work harden the surface a bit. I use Slip-Plate Graphite dry film lubricant paint on my leaf springs. It is available at John Deere dealers for about $5 in a spray can & eliminates the need to lube springs.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1927-28-29-Buick-tail-light-complete

You're right, it should be split down the middle. That one has a rear cover like a later car.

You should receive a call this afternoon to make arrangements to pick up these items. Thank you,

I will take it all for $50. Send me a personal email at durcodude@comcast.net I will have somebody come pickup everything today or tomorrow.

I got this from the Internet (author unknown) & condensed it for you: Babbitt is a tin based alloy bearing material with two other primary elements; copper and antimony. Originally, Babbitt did not have ANY lead in it. But the name "Babbitt" soon became the generic name for any bearing material, & lead based bearing materials are now included in the term Babbitt. Tin is a great metal for a bearing. It is soft, but not too soft. It will let dirt embed and it coats it so it will not score the shaft. If you run out of lubricant, the tin will melt some and liquid tin is a lubricant too. But it really is too soft to be used alone as a bearing in engines as it melts at too low a temperature (449* F) Copper is used to make the tin harder. As the percentage of copper increases so does the melting point of the tin copper alloy. Copper melts at 1984* F. Antimony also makes tin harder and increases its melting point. Antimony brings another unique property it shares with water. Antimony expands as it solidifies. Most metal shrinks as it cools. Shrinking means the bearing that was just poured will pull away from the block. Antimony melts at 1167* F. Copper and antimony also affect the malleability of the alloy. They modify the proprieties of the tin and allow it to handle the impact force in the engine without cracking or become squished out like butter. Draw your own conclusions, but for my money, tin Babbitt is the way to go. It is a good bearing material and will protect your crankshaft from being worn or scored.

I got this from the Internet (author unknown) & condensed it for you: Babbitt is a tin based alloy bearing material with two other primary elements; copper and antimony. Originally, Babbitt did not have ANY lead in it. But the name "Babbitt" soon became the generic name for any bearing material, & lead based bearing materials are now included in the term Babbitt. Tin is a great metal for a bearing. It is soft, but not too soft. It will let dirt embed and it coats it so it will not score the shaft. If you run out of lubricant, the tin will melt some and liquid tin is a lubricant too. But it really is too soft to be used alone as a bearing in engines as it melts at too low a temperature (449* F) Copper is used to make the tin harder. As the percentage of copper increases so does the melting point of the tin copper alloy. Copper melts at 1984* F. Antimony also makes tin harder and increases its melting point. Antimony brings another unique property it shares with water. Antimony expands as it solidifies. Most metal shrinks as it cools. Shrinking means the bearing that was just poured will pull away from the block. Antimony melts at 1167* F. Copper and antimony also affect the malleability of the alloy. They modify the proprieties of the tin and allow it to handle the impact force in the engine without cracking or become squished out like butter. Draw your own conclusions, but for my money, tin Babbitt is the way to go. It is a good bearing material and will protect your crankshaft from being worn or scored.

I don't have that book, but I do have the remains of a 1912 Buick model 29 roadster. I am keeping the drive train, but I do have a few odds and ends left. What do you need?

Try this: http://www.vinwire.com.au/vehicles.htm

Great photos. I only have one print of my son on a creeper with goggles on under the 29 Buick scraping crud with a putty knife. He is now 25 years old and that 29 Buick is now his car.

I am no expert on 37 buicks, but the standard Buicks in 1929 had painted light buckets, while the master series cars had chrome plated buckets.

The double solenoids reverse the polarity to drive a DC motor forward & reverse.

Wow, a prewar Buick athat can keep up with the muscle cars!

I have exactly the same problem with my 29 Buick. Marvel carburators are tempermental at best. I have tried everything suggested here too, but you might also check to see if your vacuum line to the wipers is sucking air. Let me know if & when you find your problem. durcodude@comcast.net

Try this site: http://www.sparkplugs.com/default.asp I doesn't go back far enough, but if you have an old plug number you can cross reference it.

Lamar, You seem to be stuck in 1954. I agree that you should check out the prewar forum more often & maybe find yourself a real time machine!

Try this: http://www.manheimgold.com/car_lo.html

I love it when a plan comes together with another prewar car added to Derek's fleet! Looks even better in your photos. When do I get my ride?