Mark Shaw

Since you have an updraft carb. I doubt that percolation is the problem. Check the plugs to see if they are black. If so, just clean them and lean out the mixture a bit and try again. Also use a hot plug to help prevent fouling. I use Autolite 3077 or 3076 plugs. You can also get Champion W18 plugs at your local John Deere Tractor store. They stock them for older tractors.

Try this site and scroll down to locate frame & serial numbers. http://members.aol.com/buickohv/ars.htm

Geeze, I guess I'll have to schedule a business trip to visit my distributor in Toronto for the Mc Laughlin Homecoming that week...

Just back from vacation, & I see you guys figured it out! Derek got it right, but you will also need to pull out the choke for cold starts. I have never needed to use the spark advance for starting on 29 or 31 Buicks. I think the spark advance on later cars may be a carry-over from before electric starters when hand cranking with full advance would cause kick backs.

My buddy Bud needs some help locating a replacement RR hub for his touring car. If you know where he can get a replacement, please contact him. xraybb@comcast.net

My buddy Bud needs some help locating a replacement RR hub for his touring car. If you know where he can get a replacement, please contact him. xraybb@comcast.net

I basically agree with the consensus that modified cars will be much more numerous than original restorations. However, I think everyone must keep in mind that this forum may not be the place where you will be exposed to original restorations. For that, you should all be going to HCCA events & tours. This group is dedicated to restoring and driving original pre-16 automobiles. I belong to HCCA & the BCA where a couple of buddies and I founded the PreWar Division of the BCA (BCA PWD). We got tired of seeing only go-fast muscle cars & modified cars at BCA events, so we did something about it. It resulted in a new sub group of Buick enthusiasts who actually drive their prewar cars. The future is what you make it. And, you will get out of this hobby what you put into it. Since we founded the PWD I have heard many stories of former BCA members with prewar cars that re-joined the BCa because we are now providing events for them to use and enjoy their older Buicks. I got hooked into this hobby by my father when he bought a 27 Chevy to restore. He and I worked on it together and I learned a whole lot of stuff about cars working on this very simple example. He hooked me on touring old cars by asking me to help him start and drive his 13 Buick after his bypass surgury over 20 years ago. I am now 55 years old and tour with all my prewar Buicks. My son, now 25 years old, owns the first Buick I restored with his help when he was just a grade schooler. Getting younger people involved by giving free rides in your cars, and inviting friends and family to join you on tours and car events will ensure the future of the hobby in your area will be what you enjoy doing in this hobby.

Make sure the hand brake is off before you start... For artillery wheels, you need only remove the hub cap, remove the cotter pin, castle nut, & slotted washer from the axle and use a puller that screws onto the hub where the hub cap was..... Or use the old timer's way... With the wheel you want to remove on the floor, jack up the opposite wheel, back off the castle nut only until it is flush with the end of the axle, and hit the end of the axle with a piece of wood to push the car away from the wheel you want to remove. When the wheel pops loose, it will be held on the axle by the castle nut and washer.

This Packard was professionally restored by Steve Frisbee. Frisbee has since gone into building 33/34 Ford Roadsters http://www.stevesautorestorations.com/ This was a body off frame restoration and everything was new or as new. Since the car was restored, it has spent winters in a heated garage and has not been out in the rain intentionally (have been caught once or twice). It starts and runs well and now has 9000 miles since the restore. For people who are not real familiar with the 1930 Packard Model 726 - it has a straight eight engine and it has a 4 speed transmission. Email me with any questions! stuwhite@comcast.net CHEERS, Stu Vancouver, WA

1928 Buick 4-door Sedan w/trailer - $16500 1928 Buick 4-door sedan with 20’ enclosed car hauler. Automobile is all original, in very good condition. Drives great, 82,975 original miles. Original WA license plate and many extras. Always stored inside. $16,500.00 for both. Will sell separately. 425-222-5281 ask for Bob or email for photos rohrbach@snovalley.com • Location: Fall City, WA

Mike, I converted the PDF to a jpeg file. See attached photo.

Mike, I have a pdf drawing that I can email to you if you send me an offline email... durcodude@comcast.net Study this drawing and you should see what you need to do. Be very careful with the clutch spring. It must be compressed with a jig to remove the retaining nut and then carefully released.

Good job! Looks great! Derek will have to work hard to top this....

I got some additional photos from the seller. This truck has the acetelyne starting system valve, but the photos do not show the special priming valves and tubing to make it operational.

Dave Corbin is the man with the answers you seek. I am sure he will respond when he sees this post.

Buffalo wheels will come at a premium price. When I bought my 1912 Buick parts car, my partner in the deal paid $1000 just for the Buffalo wheels & hubs. They were burned and needed complete restoration. I have a set of 18" artillery wheels from my 31 Buick parts car it you're interested. My 15 Buick speedster also has smaller wheels than original & it makes the car look better. The down side is that they will slightly reduce top end speed,.....but I'm not in this for speed anyway.

"Chop Cut Rebuild" on the Speed Channel has been running segments on a Bricklin rebuild recently.

I use a turned down deep socket with a 1/2" drive for my regular shop work. I did find a pressed steel double end socket wrench that a swap meet. I carry it in the car in my "doctor's bag". It has a hole to put a screw driver through it to turn it & it takes up very little room in my bag along with the screw driver & other tools that I always carry.

I saw this on the HCCA site: 1913 Buick Model 25 Converted Buick touring car #3252 This Buick was converted into a Service Truck by the Columbia Wagon & Body Company, Columbia, Pa. Third owner since 1936. Full history available of this local, complete, running, never restored Buick. $17,000 Contact: John Hershey, Manheim PA, (717) 898-3734

Check this out on Ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com/1915-BUICK-TOURING-C...1QQcmdZViewItem

#2 looks like 31 Buick.

These two Buicks were on a recent HCCA tour at Lake Quinalt WA. The blue one is mine.

Here's a closer look at the two Buicks.

I agree that the 13 Buick Truck on Ebay should have made more $$. It would make a cool match for my 13 Model 31 Tourning car. They look very similar, but I already have a Buick truck. Anybody remember this one?

Just got back from a HCCA regional tour at Lake Quinalt Lodge in the Olympic National Forest. Great tour with 17 pre-16 cars out of 42 cars on the tour. We had several model T Fords, an Empire, a Jeffery, a Columbia, a Kissel, etc. etc.... and only two Buicks! We had one 1914 model 25 Buick Touring from Idaho and my 1913 model 31 Touring (directly under the flag pole in the photo) on the three day tour. We covered over 200 miles of touring in cool Northwest weather. Nobody overheated, but we saw some racoon coats, lots of gloves, and some chilly people in the open cars dressed in period attire. I think this is the last summer tour for me in this open car. It drizzled on the way home yesterday, so the car is in the shop with the top up drying out before it gets put up for the winter. I also made my list of fixes to get done before the next tourning season. Any others been on an end of summer tour?