Mark Shaw

Frank, I am really sorry to hear of your problem, but glad it happened closer to home. You can take some credit for doing a shake-down run that probably saved you lots of time and $$. I expect to see lots of prewar Buicks in Bellevue this year, so you will be in good company. Maybe you can bum a ride to the Thursday night root beer joint in a prewar Buick.

I have a pair of 18" rims with tires for a 31 Buick for possible swap. The rims I need are 24" & fit 33 X 4 1/2 Tires.

I suggest you try this site: http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/

Brian, Great idea! Count me in too. I also suggest you put this invitation for the forum meeting under it's own subject line and make sure it is on the message board at the meet. Thanks for pushing this.... Mark Shaw

Owner has lowered the price to $9,500. Located in Roseburg, Oregon 97470 I have not seen this car, but it seems to be well worth the asking price. Phone Wanda: 541-672-4057 for further info.

John, Perhaps you can get some replacement chrome molding from a local body shop or boat restoration & supply company. I have a 31 Model 57 & would be glad to make a cross sectional drawing for you with dimensions & photos of mine, but I just don't know if it is the same profile on a 60 series car.

My guess is a 1916 D45.

I agree with 58Mustang. It looks like a 1935 Buick. The nameplate on the firewall will tell the whole story. If you have the fenders and most of the other parts for a complete car, it could be worth $2-5K here in the NW. Keep in mind that the value should be determined by the final restored value minus the cost of restoration. If you do not have the fenders etc. it will only be a parts car for someone who already has a more complete restorable car, and will just be worth the value of the parts.

Leif, Thanks for the lead. I usually scan Ebay first, but would like to swap if I can.

I have a pair, but they don't match. One is clear & the other is purple with age. Let me know if you have a spare. Thanks,

West, How about a trade? Your matching size for one of my other lenses? I would like to give my 24 Buick a pair of blue eyes.... Check out this site: http://users.adelphia.net/~catart/lensTable.html

Two pipes were used in the 20s. My 24 Buick has a two pipe system, and my 1931 has one pipe within a pipe to preheat the air/fuel mixture. I used freeze plugs to plug off the exhaust preheat system in my 31. It is not necessary with modern gasoline, and caused more maintenence problems than it was worth. The outer pipe is still there just to look original. Your problem is more likely a kink or corrosion in the fuel line from the fuel tank. You should also check to see that the fuel line is well away from the exhaust pipe and muffler.

Try using some JB Weld epoxy.

Yes, it was made to be that color. I have several different sizes I have collected over the years, including one 8 1/2" one. Do you have a car they will fit?

I have two good lenses, but one is clear and the other is purple with age. I will gladly swap with someone who has the same problem, or buy one to match one of them. Thanks,

They look like Ford model T rims.

Mitchell, Please note that I bought the 1912 parts car to keep the drive train for my 13 Buick: 1. water pump and shaft, got one, but need to keep it with the complete engine. 2. valve tappets and clamps, Same as #1. 3. fan belt cover, didn't have one. 4. brass lamps and windshield frame, missing or destroyed in the fire. 5. gas tank brass badges, I have these & will be glad to make a template for you. I am using the tank for my 15 Buick speedster. 6. manifold. I have both the intake and exhaust manifolds, but need to keep them with the complete engine. I will be glad to loan you parts for patterns if you wish.

Welcome to the group! Nice job on your Buick, especially because you had so far to go.... Will you be bringing it to Seattle in July?

I read the entire list of responses in the Packard forum, and concluded that nobody really completely understands how vapor lock occours. I sold positive displacement metering pumps for years and I think I understand the real problem. It is a combination of heat, long suction lines, low vapor pressure liquid, and old corroded components. Although fuel can vaporize under pressure between the pump and the carburator, this would require much higher temperatures. Unlike centrifugel pumps, diaphragm fuel pumps have an intermittent flow characteristic; (flow starts and stops) so they only pump 50% of the time. The other 50% of the time they are drawing fuel into the displacement chamber. It is during the intermittent suction stroke that the atmospheric pressure in line from the tank to the pump is reduced to draw fuel from the tank. Therefore, they require about three times more net posidive suction head (NPSH) than continuous flowing pumps. Suction flow stops during the discharge stoke, so each suction stroke must accellerate the fuel by reducing the pressure in the suction line to allow atmospheric pressure to push the fuel into the pump. The minimum pressure that must be supplied to the pump suction is determined by the displacement of the pump, suction line size, temperature, the specific gravity & vapor pressure of the liquid pumped. Knowing this, you can conclude that the key variables are: Temperature, altitude, pump size, line size, and the specific gravity & vapor pressure of the gasoline. Increasing line size will help. Increasing any other variable will increase the probability of vaporization. Check the screen in the tank and suction lines for corrosion, pinched lines, or anything that would restrict flow. Route pump suction lines well away from exhaust pipes, mufflers, etc. Just give your original fuel pump a chance to work before you install an electric fuel pump.

I agree with the electrolysis theory. It simply makes more sense.

Must be from down under or England with RH drive. I believe all 1916 Buicks in N. America were LH drive. I sent a note to the seller and he insisted that it was all oringinal running gear with a special body.

You may find something helpful here: http://etc.usf.edu/clipart/galleries/transportation/motor_vehicles.htm

For what it is worth, my 13 Buick has valves from a Mercedes diesel car. Just the stems needed to be cut shorter to fit.

This is located near me: http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/344628679.html

Actually any plating company can strip all the plating from a chrome or nickel plated piece. I am no expert, but I don't think the nickel goes back into the electrolyte solution in a form that can be re-plated onto another piece. Yes, it is a heavy metal contaminant that must be treated as hazardous waste.