Ron42Dodge

I believe this is a Mopar Light but there is a chnce it is not.. The bezel measures 1 3/4" x 3 1/4" so I believe it is a courtesy light rather than a dome light. It resembles some of the early 50s dome light shapes however the glass ribs of the curved portion run with the curve rather than perpendicular to the curve. I was hoping someone might know what it goes to. I don't know what other brands used this style light socket.

I have a nice Left Rear Bumper Extension for a 1960 Plymouth Models Savoy, Belvedere and Fury. I don't know if this is New old Stock or redone but the chrome is really nice. Almost no pits. Fine scratches and very small imperfections. Great driver piece. Probably want to rechrome for show quality Some light surface rust on the back but that might even clean up too. It is hard to show the chrome imperfections (big or small) in a picture. Here is a short video Hope this helps. $100 plus shipping

You got to look close, but he is painting the white walls on the tires. Can of Paint is sitting on the corner of the dust shield of the bumper. Back tire has not been done yet. My dad talked about doing this.

I can across this NOS speedometer that has an AMC shipping ticket. The part number is 000999747 but there is no date on the ticket. This speedometer does not remark about Unleaded gas only so I suspect it is prior to 1974. It is 0 to 90 MPH and has slots for TEMP & FUEL gauges. It has a high beam lense along with idiot light lenses for AMPS & OIL and right and left turn signal arrows. I suspect around 70 -73 JEEP CJ-5, CJ-6 but I haven't been able to confirm. Any help would be appreciated

Even the last Plymouth to roll off the line had chrome bumpers.

Anyone have a 35 Mopar parts book to know if that is what this is?

The Closest I can get is this exploded view of a D2 D5 D8 Transmission showing the Transmission Gear Shift Rail Assembly, and pictures from my 36 - 42 Plymouth Parts List that are similar pieces. The 1936 -37 1st & Reverse Rail is 654212 and the Second and Direct is 686617 for most Mopars, so the numbers are in a similar range and the pieces look similar. I'm guessing 1935 Mopar but it would be nice to know.

Trying to identify this part. I believe it is a mopar but not totally sure, possibly a shift rail. Painted number appears to be 631894. Embosed numbers are 63186 ? Also MS467 and DF28 L.. Thanks in advance

I was surprised how many woodies I saw. I've watched about 20 Minutes so far and have seen at least 3. I've driven on most of these streets and am fascinated on what has changed and what has not. But I love seeing the cars and the colors of everyday life.

This film appears to have been shot in the late 40s and explains the development and operation of the streecars in omaha. I am sharing it to this site as there are plenty of old cars driving around trying to get out of the way of the streetcars. And most is in color. Let me know if it doesn't belong here and I will be happy to remove it.

I have one dove tail latch. Are you still looking?

My 1935-53 Parts manual shows 4 different rear axle differentials for Dodge. 3.9 to 1 for 1937-1952 with a foot note. But it also shows 3.73 to 1 for 1949-52 (D29 3 cp., Roadster) and 4.1 to 1 for 49-52 Dodge. 3.9 to 1 D47 for 1953. You probably need to do Jacks test above to verify what you have.

Not sure of the exact year of the photo but I believe it is around WWII. I wish it was a little more clear.

Although he could have done a better job of packing it looks to me the shipper did everything they could to destroy this. I think these fell off the truck at least once.

One listed on ebay. MoPar 1939 1940 Dodge Truck TD VD 3/4 1 Ton Used Radiator Core #591259

I appreciate all this input. So are there platters that will do this disassembly and reassembly? I don't own a welder and would hate to learn on this. And yes, I would like it to look like it came out of the factory. I considered the blackout option but my car was delivered 1 week prior to blackout. I would rather do it correct. I've been stalled on this step way to long. I'm not even sure how to undo the existing welds. I've got to stop staring at this project and start moving forward.

That is all I was really after but they wanted them taken apart. Only the front faces need chrome. The rest can be painted or at least not buffed . Joe seems to believe they are correct but I feel maybe it is more convenient.

I have a 1942 Dodge Grille that needs to be rechromed. The grille is actually 3 assemblies (right, left and center) along with some mouldings at the top (right, left and Center). I have been stuck on this step for several years and now it's time to reach out for help. I was told by our local Chrome platter that I had to completely disassemble my grille into individual components. My center grille section is made up of horizontal and vertical members. The vertical interior members are stainless and just clipped in so I removed them and went back. No they need me to break all the factory welds. For the Center section there are 7 horizontal pieces and 2 end pieces where the horizontals were welded to the the vertical ends. I don't even know if you could reweld them on. Some suggested rivets but there would be conflicts with the end piece and the last vertical stainless. I have the same problem with the right and left sides. I've attached pictures of a NOS Left side to let you see how it left the factory. Then the top center moulding they wanted disassembled but that is all welded to the back side of plated material. Discoloration guaranteed. Only the front faces need to be polished out. Is all this disassembly necessary or am I talking to the wrong platter? I'm pretty sure there are other one piece egg crate like grilles that are chrome plated that cannot be disassembled but have been replatted (1946-48 Dodge?). Input would be appreciated. Ron

Looking in my 1942 DeSoto Parts Book they list a Standard Transmission and an Underdrive Semi-Automatic Transmission. Both could have the Fluid drive option if I am reading this correct. .

Nice research Paul. Can I ask where you ended up finding this info?

Bill, Great explanation. I could see them grabbing the next available body vs trying to find the next one in number sequence. Do you know is convertible were tagged as a coupe "C" or if they had a different letter after the build number? I know my convertible has a different tag bolted to the firewall with a build number but there are holes for the other 2 tags above the pinch weld that I don't know if I have. I may have to start digging through the boxes of parts to see if they are in there. But if I need to get them remade I better know what designation it should be.

That's what I originally thought but my serial number is 1903 into the the serial numbering series so it seems that I could not be the 2880th car built. And then I'm more confused with Reg Evans number.

I have a 1942 Dodge and I am curious as to what the Body Number tag on the firewall actually tells you. Is there a breakdown of these numbers? My car is a Deluxe 4 door sedan with the Body Number tag of 2880S. I assume the S references Deluxe as that reference is made in the Parts book. C - Custom, S - Deluxe The model number for the 1942 Dodge is D-22 for the American version and D-23 for the Canadian version. Based on the Vehicle Serial Number this is a very early production car being in the first 2,000 produced. Probably delivered in October of 41. The original paint color was (and still is) Bombardier Blue. The only reference to the Body Number I can find is in the parts manuals they say to include the Body Number when ordering parts But it would sure be nice to know what the numbers mean.

Greg, I got reading your past posts and it sounds like you have a leaky Fluid drive unit. Still not sure if 6 or 8. Years ago I pulled my fluid drive unit out and sent it to a transmission shop in Ohio. They had the seals in stock back then. Still working great. The Fluid drive looks like a torque converter. The seal is located in the center so when the seal fails, you loose about half the fluid. There are 2 seals involved. One is a covered spring like seal and the other is a graphite ring. My graphite ring shattered into pieces. Once the seal goes the oil will flow out and run down the the outside of the fluid drive and flow onto the bell housing and run out the screens. If the unit spins it will throw all that oil around in the housing area like the old spinning paint art toy. Replacing the whole unit you could possibly find yourself with the same problem as who knows the condition of the seals until you add fluid. There are some pricey seals on ebay but you need to verify which one you need by identifying what unit you have. But if a new fluid drive unit even exists, I'm sure that price would be sky high. I'll see if I can find where I sent mine Either way it is a lot of work. You have to pull the transmission out and remove the clutch to get the fluid drive out. Removing the nuts that connect the fluid drive to the engine are the biggest pain. A lot of cussing. I'll see if I can give you any insight. Ron