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Ron42Dodge

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Everything posted by Ron42Dodge

  1. Most likely your seal to your fluid drive has gone bad. There is normally no reason for a fluid drive to loose oil unless the seal is bad. The seal is located in the center of the fluid drive so when it leaks you loose about half the fluid inside of it. Usually the grafite ring has crumbled and sometimes you hear a grindy sand like sound coming from it. I had my replaced by Northwest Transmissions. I believe they were in Ohio. It was 20 years ago. Unfortunately you have to drop your drive shaft, pull the transmission out, remove the clutch to then remove the fluid drive unit as it is attached to the back of the engine. The nuts that hold the fluid drive on won't quite come off in one shot so you loosen them, then slide the fluid drive unit about 1/4" back and then remove them the rest of the way. The unit weighs about 50 lbs and the cooling fins feel real good as they dig into your chest if you take this out while laying underneath it. Low fluid would account for slipage. I wonder if the clutch plate was getting soaked with leaking fluid making it tough to shift.. I would think you could still shift through the gears though. A breif description of how the fluid drive works is the front half bolts to the engine and inside the fluid drive unit there is a turbine like plate that rotates with the engine. The back half of the fluid drive is connected to the clutch and it also has a turbine like plate that will pick up the rotation of the fluid from the front turbine and that causes the drive train to turn.. There is no mechanical connection between the engine and transmission. If the fluid is low you will get some turning of the fluid but it is very inefficient. The fluid drive should never be 100% full and that is why the service panel is not centered on top of the hump. But the fluid drive has nothing to do with shifting so there might still be an issue with linkage, or rubber grommets. It is possible who ever did the tranny rebuild didn't put it back together quite right or adjust it properly if they did not have a shop manual. They may have also mishandled things which caused the seal to go bad.
  2. A very original 1942 Dodge Convertible was just sold at auction in Raleigh North Carolina. I managed to go there and get some pictures. This car had only about 4550 miles on it. Goodyear Deluxe 6.00x16 Tires and top were original. Trunk was amazing. Interior was fantastic. I got to see the original floormat which was a combination of rubber and carpet. I also got to see the door panels for the first time which had patterns I did not know about. Looking at the car closely this weekend I believe the car started withBombardier Blue fenders and then Pananma Sand was painted over to all but the bottom 8" roughly. The back sides of the skirts were mostly blue with a little overspray. It appeared to me I could see hints of blue through the Pananma sand in areas of the inside of the fenders. As I understand this was a special order by the dealer for his personal car. The dealer was Robert L Matoon out of Waverly New York. He died in August of 1962. This was then purchased by a former employee Donald Merrill Sr who washed that car every week as a 15 year old during the war. Don eventually opened his own dealership, Don Merrill Motors which was located on Chemung Street at the current location of the Waverly Historical Museum in Waverly New York. I suspect the car sat in that building for the next 50-60 years. Don passed away in June of 2019 but I don't know if he still owned the car at that time. I know this car went on one vacation to Fillius Park Colorado as I have seen pictures of this uniquely painted convertible there. I'm guessing that was right after the war after gas rationing stopped. It was probably parked after that trip and a new car purchased by the dealer. If anyone has better information on this car history feel free to add.
  3. Autolite was not a fly by night company. I assume there was some research involved. A quick search on line asking what is the best material for spark plug wires came back with this. Solid Core: Solid core spark plug wires typically utilize stainless steel or copper, which conducts electrical current very well. For that reason, solid core wires have lower resistance than other wires to get maximum energy to the plugs. Many of your performance plug wires are stainless steel. There might be a lot to do with a typical plug wire is only a couple of feet long. Almost has to be more to it.
  4. The first box of wires I bought specifically indicated the rubber boots were omitted for the war effort, so definitely during the war time shortages. It references cars back to 1931. The second box I bought had the rubber boots and didn't go as far back for applications but still stopped at 42. All steel was restricted. Keeping cars running was a big effort during the war along with saving fuel and rubber. I have never heard either way whether it was difficult to get spark plug wires during the war. Some of their literature seem to say this is what they use in airplanes because it is reliable and efficient so why not use it on your car. If it was a fly by night company I would have my doubts.
  5. Autolite Steelductor ignition wire. 7 strands of stainless steel wire instead of 19 strands of copper. Claims easier starting, Higher top speed, Lower idling, less misfiring from fouled plugs, less burning of spark plugs electrodes and breaker points, internal corona avoided, heat hazard reduced and less radio interference. Claims 25% higher peak seconadary voltages. They say the Stainless wire is more efficient because it does not absorb the power as much as copper does providing higher secondary voltage. This particular kit is Silver Sheathed and fits my 1942 Dodge as well as other 39 - 42 Mopars and 33 - 42 Hudson, Lafayette Nash and Packard. Comes with 6 plug wires and a coil wire, rubber boots and wire ends. Another box I have says on the bottom of the box the rubber nipples were omitted to conserve critical war materials Anybody ever try these?
  6. Any example of what one of these "bandit proof' bent keys look like?
  7. This conversation has been very interesting and helpful. I am currently looking at an "original" car and this has given me some insight. Can wiring be replaced? I am assuming most cars 60 years or older probably had cloth wiring and that wiring has likely deteriorated. If a replacement harness from Rhode Island Wire or Y&Z's is installed, is it still considered original?
  8. Interesting Christmas Display Dec 20, 1941. I'm assuming those were painted custom white walls.
  9. air cleaner 1737708 Manifold with Carb Instrument Panels
  10. 1902980 Head Light Bezel Right 1902981 Head Light Bezel Left 1879045 Rear Light Bezel Left Blower Switch?
  11. 1850817 Left Parking Light Bezel (2 Pieces) 1850816 Right Parking Light Bezel (only 1 of 2 pieces)
  12. 1846632, 1846633 Tail Fin Caps Tire stop Ignition lock
  13. 1902673 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Hood Ornament 1950474 Trunk Emblem 1902671 Dodge Royal Lancer Hood Emblem Cigarette Lighter
  14. 1575917 Interior Door Levers 1602540 Interior window cranks 1909345 Dodge Royal Tail Fin Insert 1755054 Parking Light Lenses
  15. 1830676 DODGE Dash / Instrument Panel Emblem 1950428 CUSTOM ROYAL Moulding Nameplate 1950429 CUSTOM ROYAL Moulding Nameplate 1830675 Instrument Panel Bezel
  16. A friend is downsizing and has asked me to help him get rid of some spare parts. He had a 1959 Dodge Custom Royal 2 door hard top. Over the years he had remove parts from a couple donor cars. I am starting to dig through what he dropped off. I've attempted to wash of the layer of dust that was on most of the shiny stuff so far. I will be trying to get pieces identified and listed however if you see something you need/want, shoot me a message. I can get better pictures taken and maybe we can work something out ahead of time. More stuff yet to be unpacked.
  17. At one time I found some Blackout fender skirts. Took me a while to figure out they went to a 1942 DeSoto.
  18. I just swapped out my old Voltage regulator in my 42 Dodge and as I recall I need to Polarize it for the positive ground. I just want to do it right and I didn't see it covered in my shop manual at the voltage regulator section. Since I have a battery disconnect do I reconnect that first or leave that disconnected? Do I touch a jumper wire from the A (Regulator Armature Terminal) to the B (Regulator battery (-) terminal) (or Go direct to negative battery post if disconnect not connected?) ? Last time I did this was 20 years ago.
  19. Kent-Moore started making tools around 1922. I'm guessing these tools are from around that era. Possible pre Kent-Moore tool.
  20. I know this is an older topic but what the heck.. I needed to get a color match for my Bombardier Blue 42 Dodge. The best original paint was on the firewall so we cleaned it extra good and rubbed out the paint. There were no matches in the system for the color scanned. So the paint supplier had a guy with an eye that would add a splash of this and that to get the proper mix. I needed 2 gallons and unfortunately he mixed each gallon individually and kept no notes. Then he said the 2 gallons would not likely be exactly the same so he suggested not putting them in side by side areas. WTF. I took them to my body show guy and asked if he had a 2 gallon can and we poured the 2 together to make one color. I had the car painted (base coat, clear coat) and it looked great. About 3 years later I went to a show in Minneapolis and ran into another Bombardier Blue 1942 Dodge that also repainted from a paint scan. I think we were both surprised.
  21. New Old Stock Cluster Gear used by Chrysler products in 1933 and 1934, including Dodge Desoto Plymouth and Chrysler. Gear part number is 618899. Will need clean-up, coated with cosmoline.
  22. The only thing I could find so far on McConnel was an ad for McConnel Motors, Inc that indicated their sales were at 14 Maplwood Avenue and service was at 674 Tyler in Novemebr of 1927. The service garage might still be there more visable from plunkett.
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