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Johan Boltendal

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Posts posted by Johan Boltendal

  1. Bobs methode would be mine as well, the only thing not to do in my opinion, is hammering the drum, it may brake at the first blow.

    There is no need for it either, that is, I never needed to do it.

    You should give a big blow on the puller centre rod after the heating process

    should it not break loose, leave it over night and try it again the next dat, chance is it will be free in the morning. Please leave the axle nut in place after loosening it, it will prevent damage to the axle thread as well as keeping the drum in place after it comes off with a big bang. It may brake to pieces when it falls on the floor. Johan

  2. Hello Peter,

    I like to say, I certainly appreciate and understand the enormous task you are facing and managing, no doubt about this. My compliments.

    The comments will most likely be not peronally, but fed by disappointment, loosing a very nice and easy to read thread.

    The fun being, without knowing the specifics up front, having access to a very different bunch of pictures of cars and car related, at one glimp. Scrolling up and down as much as you like, at one mouse click.

    The new set up asks for a very different approach and is less fun, because every time you have to open a new thread, to find out if it's interesting to you or not.

    The one thread eliminated this by showing them all at once, so you were able to scroll over the ones you didn't like.

    The reply is most certainly easier to follow with the single threads, but noticing the amount of visitors and the replies to certain pictures, the weigth it is getting now, is more then needed the way I see it.

    I would love to get the previous single thread back, Johan

  3. No I'm not in South Africa, I'm in the Netherlands, the whole procedure leads to this, believe me I've been there.

    My chromed snap rings broke one after another, the first one with a huge blow, luckely the spare. I had mine professionally heat treated after that, it's a rather precise temp. controled issue, I would not undertake at home, nor am I able to. I visited a gear factory a few weeks back and they operate a complete hall (1/4 mile long) for heat treatment only, 24/7 computer controlled temperatures, 4 guys on mobile phone alert also 24/7

    Phone rings at half a degree changes, so much for home treatment.

  4. Hello Dean,

    Nice progress you are making, follow your comments every now and then, saw you had your bolts chromed, didn't read a thing about a heat treatment afterwards. Perhaps you had it done, perhaps you didn't think off it.

    The chemicals brittle the metal configuration, they may snap in an instance, have them done if you haven't already.

    Johan

  5. Although I'm not familiar with Packards, it could be the small bearing that supports the primairy axle in the crank. It may be a roller or bronze bearing, both can lead to the mentioned trouble.

    The fact that the car doesn't creep says nothing about this item.You may want to jack the car at the rear and try it then.

    There must be a dragging/friction problem, the thicker oil indicates that as well, increasing the inner friction of the gear box.

    Perhaps you get a deformation in your clutch when the car is warm, what ever

    the cause, your primairy axle still turns when you try to shift, that's obvious.

    Johan

  6. Too long it has taken me to tell you about progress, I know.

    Not too much has happened, a few things did. We managed to find an exact match for the liner, colour and material,the wooden top bows have been succesfully covered with a matching

    cloth as well,I'm pleased with the result.

    A nice detail I think is the restored Fisher badge, more importantly, we have decided on a top colour finally, the authenticity has won a tan top it will be. Johan

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  7. No decision on the top color yet,lots of hard work went into the weatherstrip fit,I thought i'd had it, with the door and window fit, was I to learn better!

    The T shaped rubber strip didn't have the original vulcanised metal bars in it, so it went all over the place upon fitting it to the rails, I had to come up with a metal based solution.

    I had plasma cut a SS 1/32 thick plate into strips an inch wide,glued these to the rubber, after drilling and filing the oval holes, fitted the tan bow drill and screwed these to the rails.On top of that every position is related to all other loose and adjustable components, it has been quite an undertaking

    I'm happy with the result, the fit is like the old ones

    (factory originals came with the car)and I like the looks.

    Johan

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  8. Glad you got them, I know they are a bit different, but as you found out, worth having. The three filaments are used in '32 and '33 all engined cars. This little use explains the fact there are not many NOS left. Bruce might consider an add in the Selfstarter. Johan

  9. The Cadillac LaSalle club certainly didn't go hot rod, they

    did accept a modified chapter under their wings, among many others. I'm a member with my '30 and '32 Cadillac for almost

    40 years now and the club has a wealth of knowledge towards the early cars,to name a few; fellow members owning the same cars,technicians who know a lot(not all) of your specific car,

    authenticity manuals,a very nice monthly club magazine and so on.

    A very nice car you got your self,compliments Johan

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