Johan Boltendal
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Posts posted by Johan Boltendal
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John what a fantastic car, I love the colors, a job well done and a fine car to drive . regards Johan
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To me it is a distributor cap for a Cadillac 452 A B C D and the 36-90 , top outlet , early engines came with a side outlet for the plug cables, firing order is correct for the Cadillac V-16
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Not possible to overbore and reline with a new bushing. Maybe not. comparable are the La Salle and Cadillac V-8 blocks for '32 and '33
Dick Shappy Providence RI or Sonny Elliott Kansas city Kansas, most likely can help you
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it's a vacuum pump of a '32' '33 Cadillac , most likely V-8 but can be 12 or 16 as well , not to be seen from the pictures as it is. Johan
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Many thanks, never expected this to be the outcome , it's a joy to visit and open the links, the improvements in loading are awesome.
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Glad you tried it and it solved your problem as suggested. The way the optima gel is build, tends to invite the high voltage, my reading turned out to be 11.5 to 12 V on the coil with the optima.
it took me a lot longer to find out, because after restoration i had the lead acid battery in the car and measured an set the gen reading with this battery. without a second thought I changed it with an optima gel.
Took me awhile to solve the several problems that surfaced, running bad revving the engine , running bad with the lights on , not willing to go above 45 mile and so on. It ís a most unknown problem,
most due to the fact I assume, most cars have a regulator run fine with the gel and not all that don't have one run bad with an optima. At least we came out more knowledgeable then we went in this question
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Linus, I cannot be sure but I have two cars of about the same age, one runs excellent without trouble and the other burns coils like second to none with the optima battery. No trouble any more after the battery switch on the coil burning car. The other one still uses the optima without issues of any kind. Perhaps the generator winding or the field have tolerances that causes these differences, I do not know. It's worth a try
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As far as I know there is no way of adjusting the Voltage this is set by the builder of the gen starter. Only suggestion I can add, do you use a Gel battery or the old lead/acid one.
Should you use a gel one try the old one The post of the third brush gen addresses this as well.
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Very interesting comments all together, missing one, a third brush with an optima gel battery is not a good option, it will overload continuously, as I found out, could be the reason why there was no reaction changing the position of the brush.
The optima gel will also lead to a high voltage on the coil and other related parts. Be sure to check the voltage and amps on your third brush car . I've decided to go back to the lead battery on both my cars, because of this issue.
I could go to a regulated system, but hardly ever drive at night, so the third brush gen works well for me.
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Disconnect a vacuum line to the Stewart, hang a Vacuum pump ( electrical operated ) on the Stewart and the pump will pull the vac to fill the Stewart tank stress less.
No over flowing, no mess , filled it automatically closes the supply ( as with the engine supplied vacuum ) and done.
I do this every spring after the winter storage and it functions superb. And yes without a power supply it's use less.
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What wonders me , how can you be that certain, if you obviously don't know, what you are saying, this doesn't help the seller , one chance, you didn't notice this carb fits a V-8 Johan
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It's definitely a '32 carb, with a filter that's not as it should be, lower part looks like it could be '32, top definite not , it has a louvered part and a semi flat lid Johan
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Sorry, by nr I mend number as in the Ohm value number. The trouble with coils is there are many sold for all kind of different purposes, not always are they living up to the promisees made, as I learned the hard way.
Only way of knowing if the 6 V coil you have or intend to use has the 3-4Ohm resistance, is by measuring the specific coil, if it doesn't have the needed resistance , use a resitor of the right value, to achieve the resistance needed for your use, I have 4 said 6V coils at the moment new and used , not one of these has the said 3-4 Ohm, they vary between 1.9 and 2.4 Ohm, so I use a resistor of 1.5 Ohm and are able to use all 4 . Johan
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I was told this is a 6v coil. If were a 12v coil instead would that be the cause of the hot coil?
It can be either one, that's not the problem, both will get hot , if the nr is not right, you should see you get the right resistance on the one you use, being 3-4 ohm, either you buy a new one with the said nr or buy a resistor to get it
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Thanks to Google I now understand that condensors can be polarity sensitive depending on the type. Installed many a condensor and never thought about it . Luckily they generally only go one way and on early cars it doesn't matter.
Stakeside my idea is, the resistance in the coil is not as it should be, a 6 V coil resistance should read between 3 and 4 Ohm , most likely it isn't, hence the hot coil ( will fail eventually without a doubt)
You should put a resistor in the power cable, till you get the wanted 3-4 Ohm, should you find it is about 2 Ohm . 12 V coils are in that range btw Johan
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How do I get the last post first settting again, what I intend to ask, with the previous forum set up you could ask for all pages to open with the latest/newest post/reply on top first, so no matter what page you opened (reading it for the first time ever or every day), it always showed the latest reply on top of the opened page, instead of openeing with the first post it started with, I used to have that setting, opening a page showing he last posted reply on top, I tried several times but cannot find this setting, I like to have this setting again,if possible, thanks Johan
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I assume West means, crankcase silver , blocks and heads black, the crank case wasn't painted when new, due to oil, dirt and water stains it most likeley will be today to have it look good. You should use a flat silver aluminum spray to get the best result.
the oil pan was silver colored as well as well, from the engiens I've done this was the sceme. Johan
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You could give Sonny Elliott in Kansas City or Dick Shappy in Providence a try Johan
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The hinges are the same all engines 30 and '31 '32 is different used on the V-8 type 12 Carb only , Pete Sanders may have them (at a price) Johan
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1L=4R=4L=2L=3R=3L=2R=1R in this sequence the driver side front cylinder is nr 1
the nrs on the head are the cylinder nrs used by Cadillac , as used in 1- 2- 3 -4 etc giving the firing order in that system 1 is 1L nr 2 is 4R nr 3 is 4L etc
this info goes for the laSalle 340 but should be OK for the 303 as well. Johan
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You could send me an e-mail jbmk@planet.nl . I have a complete '32 V-12 engine Johan (Netherlands)
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Good to read your reply, curious what you will find in the end.
Ready and driven regularly, what a difference this is , between my '30 and this '32. So much improvement overall, this '32 . Amazing,
greetings Johan
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My first action would be finding out why the compression is low, do a leak test and there you are. Most likely a burnt or carbon fouled valve only, head off repair and done.
A holed piston, broken rings or the like, would burn gallons of oil and smoke the neighborhoud
Why talk off engines out, complete overhaul Multi dollar undertaking if it's most likely only a valve issue. Perhaps you consider how your car stayed in the condition it is Today
most likely nort by taking it completely apart when ever a small issue surfaced. Botom line: address the problem (any problem btw) accuratly before taking off on massive rebuilds.
You can be sure if you take it apart everything will be needed, it's 80years old isn't it. Please make the right decision, for your sake and the cars, Johan
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Hi Pat
Sorry, I.m obviously in need of more light, better glasses or both , your right I saw the ? for a 7 the 8 was seen as a 3. The nrs came from the 2014 directory, so proven by you to be accurate when reading them properly that is .
What I've found on body nrs they do not Always follow our way of sequnec thinking, some times you come upon an early body nr on a much later car ( engine nr wise) and some times the other way around.
Could also be the V-8 that were build with the 5725 body used the body numbering together with the other engined cars. good luck with your search. Johan
1939 LaSalle Bohman Schwartz
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
Must have been quite a job , well done. Although I'm not into these years as you know is a fantastic result. Allow me a remark,
could it be the car is sitting a tad to deep at the rear, or is that the pictures. It kind of hangs at the rear, compared to the origianl photo's.
regards Johan