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Johan Boltendal

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Posts posted by Johan Boltendal

  1. Please, find some latest progress pictures attached, all windows in place, new channel, new rubber parts,new filler, All window and lock related parts are working well,including the two newly made window mechanisms, the small ones that take the handle were completely worn out on both front doors.

    Doors close and fit as they should and the gaps are like they supposed to be.

    I will start on the top hardware next, should be interesting as well.

    Question, what would you like the car to have; a black top with tan inner lining, or a tan one with the same tan inner lining, I'd love to learn your thoughts on this.

    Johan

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  2. It will most likely be tight around the studs,try to get out as many as possible with the head in place, all would be best naturally,the studs will be damaged, but it's easy to make new ones, you will need these any way when the head is on as long as you think it is. The gasket will seperate with a minimum of effort, when the studs are out.

    Try to resist, hammer blowing of any kind, or putting some thing in between the head and block, as suggested, if the head is stuck tight around the studs, something will break doing it this way and it wont be the screw driver. The method works well when it's slightly stuck, on one or two studs,but not the way I understood your question.

    Johan

  3. Harry, looking at your progress and quality, there is no need

    for any more talent.

    Not much visible progress, but lots of small things, door hardware put in place, adjusting rubber bumpers and altering these, to achieve realistic door gaps, several small parts

    added after trying and trying again,sounds familair?

    Divider an B pillar upholstered in black leather, with cotton and wadding to get the authentic look, I do not like the modern fiber and foam fill for a car this age,but then that's my opinion.

    Wood moulding in place.

    At least it keeps me in my shop and warm for the time being.

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  4. Thank you David,as you already noticed I love to restore the car to the last detail. The crankcase was chemically cleaned,

    that left me with a multi colored result,I didn't like, I wanted the look of the original casted part,I've tried a lot of different finishes and the best result gave an spray bottle called "Alu Spray",here in the Netherlands, it is a material like aluminium from a spray can, it will stay flexible and hardens to a certain point, but no where like paint, if you touch it with a little pressure, after it has dried, it will leave you with some material on your finger tip, oil and gas will not wipe it off whithout force,I'm very happy with the result. The exhaust manifolds were porcelainized and came with the car when I bought it. Johan

  5. Hello Alan,

    Thank you for your compliments. The paint I used is a two pack DuPont Centari 6000 Jetblack AM 5 or

    Spies Hecker Tiefschwarz HB 902

    No top coat was used.

    Both are an exact match, after the original standard black paint, found on the cover inside, of the tire chain box ,was in excellent, non damaged, original painted condition and hardly ever exposed to sunlight we recconed. Johan

  6. It has been a while since the last update on my project, it slowly started a few weeks back again. The issue with the defect wiper vacuum switches is much worse then I had ever thought possible. I had bought two switches last summer, boy was I happy, after cleaning and flattening the surfaces with fine valve paste and getting them air tight, I was pleased to put them on the car, after hand fitting the small pipes and nuts, the moment I pointed a small wrench towards them the first one broke in two, to be followed by the second one that broke a thread in half, I was ………… as you will understand, searching starts all over for them.

    Small progress on the battery box and clamp, restored the fuel pump a second time, not painted the first time and not flattened (thought it was within the margin) turned out it wasn’t, I hated the non painted pump from the moment I put it on, so against Authenticity, I painted it lightly to get an even finish instead off all the colour on the casted material after so many years, It will have looked all right when new, but certainly not now.

    Windshield, new bottom white rubber and first piece of wood (top) in place, windshield sealed (non visible) with cork rubber seal (visible) Trunk rack and lid completely fitted with all hardware to my satisfaction. Also completed, the restoration of the glove compartment.

    Hope you enjoy the pictures.

    Best Regards,

    Johan

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  7. Perhaps these two contol valves,they are the same, early '30 Trico, belonging to wiper motor S108 (left) and S109 (right) are in the stock you have, please let me know if you do, I'm looking for two replacements,have the Trico copy as well, but these two are not mentioned in there, thanks Johan

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  8. I'm very sad to read what happened to you,although I didn't contribute a lot, I thoroughly enjoyed your posts and ingenuity.It may be a while before we can see this happening again.

    The brain is a strong and mysterious part of our body, just keep trying,trying and trying, I've seen it happen, close by.

    I wish you all the power you will need,my thoughts are with you,all the best, Johan

  9. I would not ever use stainless, the sound is indeed way off,

    the stainless transfers way more heat into the car,the expansion is far more then a steel one,thus giving way too much pressure on your manifold, pipe and muffler fittings

    and a steel one will last forever as well, my '30 Cad has a steel one installed from 1985, wihout touching it till today.

    Good luck with your decision. Johan

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