Johan Boltendal
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Posts posted by Johan Boltendal
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Carl is giving the idea the right response , that is what I'm after . I have no plans of ever making use of this insurance value to replace, but one never knows what can happen.
The value in Europe and the US is about equal for these cars. The agreed value is not used with insurance companies , so that will be difficult to get . I will however make an attempt
and find out if and how I can make this happen. Will let you know in the end when I have come to a solution. The pictures of the '32 are in the restoration forum under
A few pictures from the '30 will follow thanks Johan
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Thanks to all that responded in a way. I've learned now that wanting to know something , put this in a question and to try to get an answer that fits the question,
as in this situation " any one has an idea about the value of said cars" is much tougher, then I had anticipated. In fact I didn't get any.
The ideas of insurance companies and leads are certainly appreciated and I will follow the Chubb and Lloyds suggestion.
I do not have sentimental ideas or thoughts of value, tried to make clear the status and the condition the cars are in .
Just wanted to compare my valuation thoughts (the money needed to buy the same cars again) with you knowledgeable people on this forum.
Again many thanks to those members who took the time to reply . Johan
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Hi , perhaps you can be of help getting my insurance value wher I think it should be. Market value is of no interest because I don't want to sell and they will stay with my children and grandchildren, when I'm gone.No doubt about this.
Over here in the Netherlands we have an insurance system that works with appraisers to set a value on an object. Till now never a serious problem. Needed a new appraisal for both and the trouble started, terms like market prewar is
down and low, getting lower, buyers wanting these cars are less and less etc etc. Trying to make them clear, that this has nothing to do with insurance value, fell on deaf ears. ( the appraisers that were in the know are no longer around )
We insure the value of a car in the Netherlands as follows, object loss or gone, money received must allow you to buy a likewise car in the same condition, the week thereafter. Assuming the lost cars are to be bought then and there.
Cars I'm talking about ;
1930 Cadillac 353 7p limo imported to the Netherlands early 1930 documented from new till now in my possession for 50 years . Restored in the 70s and 80 s maintained since then, with an trans, rear axle, radiator and engine overhaul in 2018
New brakes, new wheels and tires, restored springs ,shocks and steering gear 2019 A very nice driver (3 to 4000 mile per year)with an excellent interior ,chrome and paint.
1932 Cadillac 355B AWP 46000 original miles in my possession since 2001,documented from new , restored from 2007 to 2014 to a car as it left the factory in '32 , specs after the build sheet, condition also new or better then new.
we do not know the point system as you have but it scored two 10's ( best you can get)and best of show from 400 in 2018 driven a 100 miles since that moment, air conditioned storage for both cars .
The restoration of the '32 is on the restoration forum .
Please let me know if you have an opinion on the value of said cars. Thank you very much. Johan
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John , as you know, the carb on the V-8 looks simple, but is a precision instrument, as is the distributor , both set well they will hardly give any trouble. 😉
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Steel for certain . Johan
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Good morning Jon, thank you spot on , both springs missing, there is a spare carb , with the owner, let's find out of they are present within that one, if not can you supply them or have a source? regards Johan
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Hi
A 1957 Cadillac with a 4 barrel Rochester is flooding the engine under braking due to fuel coming out of the two vent pipes on top of the carb,. My friend is a mechanic and into old cars rather well.
Knows his carburetors and has tried several option to get grip on the situation, without result . Most knowledge is with German made carbs as you will understand. But then that should not be that big a difference.
He concluded that the fuel, under braking,is coming out of the two vents on top of the carb, flooding the engine.It kind of builds up and find it's way out into the secondary part.Float level is by the book float are tight and the car is running well till the brakes are applied and the fuel spill starts. Could there be a plate/part or gaskets missing, that prevents this fuel escape under braking ? Thanks for your attention to this question Johan -
It actually should work fine , setting these after the manual, what I have found (the hard way) it is extremely important the points have the right dimension, that is length of contact arm, take up point of the rubbing block on the arm, in relation with the cam lobe .
If these do not have the original factory intended dimension , it can and will not function, the overlapping is not as it should be with the wrong dimension points. This might help knowing Johan
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Howard, this is the information I had wished not to read, but knew I possible would , how very sad .
Thank you for taking the time and let me know. Johan
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Hi all,
Perhaps one of you can help me out. I'm trying to reach George of Ol Car Bearing for quite some time, without success. A lady taking the call says, this box is full and that message is never different.
Need to contact George about a payed , non delivered order. All in all we are talking a period of almost 4 months now. There must have happened something, because I never met this with George, I do hope
nothing bad has happened.
Is there any one who knows why there is no way of contacting George? Thank you Johan
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Hi I have a few from a 30 Cadillac in fair to good condition do not know if they fit the Buick, both being GM it might. If you give ( PM) me the details of the Buick ring, I will compare and let you know.
I'm in the Netherlands . Johan
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Please find a scan of the pages in the preliminary service information of Cadillac regarding the blue dot tail light Johan
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In the earlier days we tapped it from the front, through the starter opening or with the lower part of the bellhousing off , with a piece of hardwood and a big hammer, turning the flywheel around.
It in was 99% of the time fly rust between flywheel and crank/studs, tight fit little rust needed. If not accessible from the front, do it from the back. The little twisting through the force does the trick. Getting it off
straight/ in one line, is almost impossible. good luck Johan
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Joe, you have a PM
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As promised two pictures of an old not cleaned partly damaged one, still in use.
The diameter from the outside in widest 3.990 next (rim inside size of glass fit ) 2.668 Blue dot opening 1.285
The press of the glass profile is different in the Cadillac glass, compared to the one from the Packard in the picture,
have a look at both glasses closely and you notice the difference in model of print, visible from the outside.
Also the blue dot in the Cadillac glass serves two purposes, hence the split in the middle, it serves as a backup lens as well as a stoplight lens.
The Packard may have this as well I don't know, the split is visible from the outside picture of The Cadillac glass, can't recognize it in the Packard picture.
For me it's a Cadillac glass. Johan
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Interesting, I still think it's Cadillac I'll post a picture of one tomorrow
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Cadillac of '32 and '33 have this glass with the blue dot from the factory. It is red in some states back then, where blue was not allowed.
This dimension suits a Cadillac . Should you want to sell, please let me know. I'm interested .
jboltendal at hotmail.com
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Jon, what is the material in general and or finish, thanks Johan
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The year of the V-16 worked on is most likely '34 or perhaps '35 hood has no doors, horns and regulator under the hood on the fire wall.. Certainly not '32 or '33 Johan
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Do not know , but it should be solved I think now. Johan
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Pete can't reply I think, because the questions are forwarded to my email address for any reason unknown. He most likely doesn't get them Johan
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Not my advert nor do I have the parts, or the car, for what it's worth Johan
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Hi came upon this one just now. I think it's electrical, coil, condenser, points or some thing in that direction. Make sure all your ground contacts are as they should. Isolation within the distributor is alo to be Ok.
Install a ground cable, welding cable thickness, directly between the engine and the battery. Doesn't sound like a fuel problem to me, have some ride with you and check the sparks at failing. How hot is the coil,
should not exceed 45 degree celsius when hot. Never measured a coil so I can't help there. Have exp. the same with my '32 Cadillac was on the fuel route as well , turned to be a grounding problem, mind you all original fitted cables
new and fitted as tehy should, my problem was solved after the said extra cable. good luck.
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in Period Photos - Pre WWII
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