Johan Boltendal
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Posts posted by Johan Boltendal
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Hi Jeff , interesting comment from Chris about the pice of wood the driveres carried, what might help, is lessening the movement of the float, I once found an old float with a triangular thin steel wire inserted at at the lower end of the float, height about a 1/8 of an inch.
this way not allowing the float to go down to the float housing bottom all the way. normally it wont go that far at a regular fuel supply, but under certain circumstances it happens.
The lesser movement of the float will give a shorter movememt of the needle, staying more centered, as well as lesser movement of the hinge. Have used this float stop all the time since I found this
and have done a few carbs over the years. But then you may already have this in place .
Not using the clip can lead to a stuck needle, if the float rests at the bottom , allowing the hinge to let it fall side ways.
Happens if you forget to open the shut off valve at the vacuum tank , how I know....... Did you check the free movement of the new float when closed towards the center tube of the carb,
Found some that got stuck due to too small a cap between float an carb tube. Sandpaper will solve that issue.
Good luck and please let us know if and how you solved this issue. Johan
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I can tell you what it is not , a 16 , it is not a rds but a ccp with roll up windows, 8 or 12 not possible for me from the picture to determine
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Thank you both for sharing the thoughts and info. I'm a Cadillac guy hnce the hudramatic, sorry for the confusion Johan
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Hi, thank you for your reply, what makes you think it is what you say it is, also what could be the function of the direct/open link with the float chamber of the carb.
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What purpose does this part have on a 41 Chrysler hydramatic? It is electric operated and is conneted to the fule bowl of the Stromberg carb. thanks Johan
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9 hours ago, Captain Harley said:
1929 Cadillac All Weather Phaeton?
Capt. Harley😉
it's a 1930 V-8 Fleetwood AWP, full louvres along the hood, '29 had 2/3 of the hood length , strange thing is the horn trumpets, way too long trumpets and not '30 V-8, short horn left side was oem.
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Alex, are you using a gel or an acid battery in your car? Allow me to advice to use the acid one. Have exp. the Optima and that cooked the coil as well as leading to an overheating of the generator. It gave up, to 11 volts from the generator.
I was explained by an electrical engineer why that was, but forgot. What I do know, after putting the acid one in, I never had the trouble again.
You have no doubt the charging info from the '32 WSM, if not let me know.
Johan
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Alex the spare I have is a NOS measured at 0.002 Ohm . the wire material is a non magnetic , perhaps you can determine from your broken, one what it is. Johan
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This is excatly where you should measure the diameter , thank you
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Hi, what are these 17 18 19 inch, looking for 19 inch thanks Johan
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2 hours ago, nzcarnerd said:
A 192 ad for Farina coachwork - on Lincoln. From a facebook page titled Autodocumentatiebeurs Eerde. I think it is Dutch?? Maybe someone can translate the title. Relates to automotive documentation I think - I guess memorabilia in English.
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No need for that only one gasket was and is used, inner tank inplace gasket on top of both , top cover on, done.
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use the rubber cork 1.5 mm worked then works now
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4 hours ago, K8096 said:
1930/31 Cadillac 8?
I'm pretty sure it's a LaSalle '30, taillights, splash aprons without doors, to name a few
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Walt, how nice of you to ask, I followed the period pictures from the beginning and have visited 2 or more times a day. I’m sorry to say, that with the latest change of the format I actually have lost interest because I will not open each and every subject with pictures or comments seperately. I loved to open the period pictures , as said , to find all at once and pick what took my attention. For me the way I exp. It now will my visting. This comment is not to offend, It’s what I feel, Johan
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Hi, following your post every now and then, reading there wasn't any result after a month with the diesel. Took the phone and called a friend who works with aluminium , old and new in his shop.
My friend agreed on the diesel solution, also said it can take a very very long time , the submerging being a major attribution in the process, when possible. He also suggested cleaning vinegar or lemon , both dissolving the salt cristals formed at the oxidation of the alu. If not tried already you could think about this. Johan
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Had aquired a pair of Cadillac Johnson carbs laying around for more years then was good for them.Actually all and every part was kind of solid, one way or another. My long tome friend and toolmaker said, he learned from his father, diesel oil will eventually loosen any frozen part . The two solid carbs were submerged in diesel oil for about 6/months . They both came apart without ANY damage and I have restored the carbs afterwards to pristine and functional condition.
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You could try and soak these pipes day after day with diesel oil, looks like the way it's constructed in the picture, it would hold some diesel around the pipes. Diesel oil will eventually loosen the corroded parts.
From exp. it takes up to several month's, but at a given time you can take the jacket off, without damaging it.
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My grandfather in front of the two busses, I think this picture was made mid 20's . No idea of the car brand they used to make the bus.
Registration nr of both is groningen, in the north of the netherlands where he and we are still living .
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The first car could be an Austro Daimler the second a Peugeot D' Arlmat
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14 hours ago, John_Mereness said:
The Gold Ghost - 1934
this fuel gauge doesn't belong to this '32 although it fits the sequence
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Unintentionally you made a mistake, your human. I personally recognize the pain you must be feeling, that pain needs to find a place and it will.
After realizing what pleasure we all have found contributing and reading/learning in this thread, we can always start again, keep your head up please.
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The car is a Morris 8 1947/48
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le and ri two large bolts, from the outside of the frame going to two inside threaded cones in the crankcase. Take notice before loosening the bolts, not to take out the two bolts at the rear of the crankcase.
these two bolts are holding the cones in place and prevent them from turning with loosening the two said bolts. The engine and box will come down, so you have to support these in a way, before taking the two bolts out.
1930 Packard 733 Stewart vacuum tank
in Technical
Posted
Gave this float needle fitting idea a thought today, 3 or 5 small pliable strips in the thickness of the gap between float and inner tank, hanging on the outer tank, going towards the bottom of the inner one,
would guide the float and needle in the center and should ease the fit. I agree with m-mman there will have been a production based methode. when build in nrs and assembled.
when the float needle sits you take out the strips and lower the top to fit the screws. . Never tried , but will certainly do so the next time tackling one. Johan