Johan Boltendal
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Posts posted by Johan Boltendal
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My first action would be finding out why the compression is low, do a leak test and there you are. Most likely a burnt or carbon fouled valve only, head off repair and done.
A holed piston, broken rings or the like, would burn gallons of oil and smoke the neighborhoud
Why talk off engines out, complete overhaul Multi dollar undertaking if it's most likely only a valve issue. Perhaps you consider how your car stayed in the condition it is Today
most likely nort by taking it completely apart when ever a small issue surfaced. Botom line: address the problem (any problem btw) accuratly before taking off on massive rebuilds.
You can be sure if you take it apart everything will be needed, it's 80years old isn't it. Please make the right decision, for your sake and the cars, Johan
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Hi Pat
Sorry, I.m obviously in need of more light, better glasses or both , your right I saw the ? for a 7 the 8 was seen as a 3. The nrs came from the 2014 directory, so proven by you to be accurate when reading them properly that is .
What I've found on body nrs they do not Always follow our way of sequnec thinking, some times you come upon an early body nr on a much later car ( engine nr wise) and some times the other way around.
Could also be the V-8 that were build with the 5725 body used the body numbering together with the other engined cars. good luck with your search. Johan
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According to the Cadillac directory, that also sports a very accurate nrs section, the nrs are as follows;
V-12 5725 '34 12 cars '35 37 cars with leather back no quarter windows the nrs being 1 and 17 for cars with a metal back
V-16 5725 '34 4 cars '35 1 car with leather back no quarter windows no metal backs produced
Your 5275 V-12 nr 29 should be as intended .
the V-12 are on the 148 made in 34 and 35 only and the 5725 V-16 sits on the 149 chassis. 10 V-16 bodies being made between 34 and 37 one with a collapsible rear
Some data that might help a bit, Johan
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If what you say is as it is, your vacuum tank is working ok, because if it mt's, it will never be filled standing and running at the first crank after 2-3 minutes. It's almost impossible to fill the tank cranking the engine. your battery will die first.
Your problem should be vacuum tank to carb or carb related. Did you drill the holes in your rebuild carb with obviously a new valve seat?
Johan
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They didn't use an extra pump when build, no need for it now either. Make a test rig on the bench for the Stewart, if it works ok if not rebuild the Stewart or have it rebuild. and have a look at all the vacuum line connections. Also make sure the fuel tank is clean from rust and debri and the fuel line shouldn't have an air leak either. There must be a fault some where let us know what came out,Johan
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Results - London 2013 | Classic Car Auctions | RM AUCTIONS this should show what is asked for Johan
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1930/1931 V-16 All Weather Phaeton, Fleetwood body style 4380
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It is a 1926 custom Fisher 341 sedan, I think it is a 7 pass with divider window, but hard to tell exactly from the picture.
Fisher introduced the new triangular glass in front of the A pliiar in 1926, on the custom sedans.
Johan
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Find the process of de hardening steel on the internet, after this make it happen and make a drill leading form, attach this firmly, to prevent the drill going wide.
Find a diamond drill of the right dimension and grind this in a way it is usable for steel, most diamond drill are for concrete and the are grinded differently.
Take your time Johan
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Figures are for a 29 but there will be not much difference, gear and trans just below the filling opening, engine till the indicator
shows FULL Johan
gear 2.3 ltr
Rear 2.8 ltr
eng 7.5 ltr
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Could be I have the ones you need , these are Packard and 20 inch, don't know if they fit the '29 but that's to be found out. Johan
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http://fm22.888.net/fmi/iwp/cgi?-db=PartsDatabase04-12-07&-loadframes
Pete Sanders parts , a brass copy of the part in his cataloque, perhaps it is what you need.
Look under speedometer, Johan
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I agree with David, leave the welding out, the risk is too high and there is no need for it either, follow Davids route with a fine machinist and it will come out
working as it should.
Best of it, you still have your carburetor body, not melted down or exploded to pieces. Johan
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Hello Tom,
Be aware of the fact that an oiled or greased nut or bolt, easily takes you up 10 to 15 pounds on the reading of 65.
80 can be too much for the cast iron thread holes. Johan
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Indian or Harley Davidson, not car related in my opinion, most likely it is the front parking light of a motor cycle, early '40's in that region. Perhaps second world war transport related.
Good luck Johan
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I second that, what reason to take it off in the first place,
my '30 Cad is driven in Europe on the vacuum system for 40 years now, without any trouble. Johan
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you did think of the UNEF thread system, it's the only one I can think off. Johan
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this might be what you need, Johan
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'30 '31 '32 and '33 that I'm certain off, perhaps also a few years before or even after the years mentioned. Johan
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Ivan,
most interesting your story, I ve been reading your different answers on this forum for quite some time and always love to read them, impressed by your skills and knowledge.
Johan
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Perry,
Your memory is excellent it was advertised dec 2010 but was a hand pump Johan
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thanks I will give it a try. Johan
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Hello,
Thank you for pointing me towards this add, a pity it isn't the right part.
The pump I'm looking for; is sitting on the engine at the rear, actuated by the cam, a kind of a small compressor is the best way to describe it, thanks for your attention.
Johan
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Looking for a Fuel air pressure pump for a 1925/1926 Cadillac .
thanks , Johan
How Do I Pick the Best Repair Shop for a Prewar Car?
in General Discussion
Posted
Good to read your reply, curious what you will find in the end.
Ready and driven regularly, what a difference this is , between my '30 and this '32. So much improvement overall, this '32 . Amazing,
greetings Johan