Johan Boltendal
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Posts posted by Johan Boltendal
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The complete clutch assembly will not interchange, interchange will, the '30 to '33 clutch drive with the disks, as well as the throw out bearing, Johan
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Getting closer day by day.
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Matthew,
Thank you for your reply and pointing me towards this spray chrome.
Next to chrome plating on the cars headlamps, grille, bumper and a few small items, the difference with spray chrome is too much. I have tried a few parts,
for other use, with professional spray chrome, to find out how it stands up,
the finish is certainly acceptable, but the quality we get in the Netherlands is too far off.
Besides that the chrome paint we get is easier damaged, leaving chips and scratches.
Will have to follow the chrome plating road . Thanks again Johan
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Sharp eye and a legit question.
Knowing my aim for Authenticity, I would have been surprised, if this question hadn't come up.
'32 shells are made of thin hard metal from new, as it turned out,
Most people ever undertaking a restoration of any kind, must feel the need to have the shell chromed as one of the first things to do. This '32 is no exception.
The result I suggest, the existing shell on the car so thin, it almost imploded.
After finding and buying a second one, a bit better, but also in a condition way less then wished for, after repair and reinforcements being carried out, the chrome plater managed to sand it to destruction.
Despite my explicite demand, to only acid copper the shell, this, to get some materal thickness being able to polish the shell and in the meantime not to though the thin metal shell at all.
The plater had decided to do otherwise without consulting me, only presented a holed shell. I spare you the details of this conversation.
Not wanting to wait for a third shell to be found and chrome plated, this could well take several month's,
I decided to paint the first shell, being the only one in a paintable condition after filler and repair.
This black shell, could perhaps have been ordered late '32, but it isn't as it should be and this shell is temporarely.
As a bonus, I will be able to drive this car this summer, I must add, I kind of like the black shell as well.
Johan
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Status of Today, fenders ready to go on in the next day or so, Johan
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Restorer32, sorry, I owe you the translation.
Henk ask this question on the Packard forum a bit further down the page.
Restorer32 a frequent visitor makes these that's certain.
Johan
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Henk, stel je vraag op het Packard forum, iets naar beneden op deze lijst, Restorer32 een regelmatige bezoeker maakt ze dat is zeker.
vr gr Johan
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The device between the headlamps is a siren most likely. I do not know this car with the siren, but it was certainly common those days, for high ranking
members and those who liked to be, to have a siren on board , this one certainly looks like it
Johan
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Ongoing status of the '32, making the SS moulds for the top took a lot of time and thinking, I'm very happy with the result.
Wheel with beauty rim, hub cap and V-8 emblem, all 6 of them done.
Detail of hood chrome and rubber end leaning
towards the fit and adjusting of the hood as the next step. Johan
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Don, that certainly has turned out to be a very fine substitute with some
excellent solutions. Congrats.
Allow me to remark, the clearance between frame and carb housing seems very little, from the picture showing this. Engine movement under acceleration or heavy breaking mght lead to an interferance with bad results for the carb.
can imagine the smile on your face driving the V-12, running the way it did, taking it out for a first drive. Johan
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Have been busy with all kind of small jobs, taking a lot of time, hardly worth picturing, not a lot to see.
The current status is visible in a few images attached. Rear fenders on as well as taillligths with indicator bulb inside.
Running board rubber took a lot of sweat to get right, all loose parts made after the remaining original mat, had to be fit and glued together. In the end
I'm satisfied with the result. Thanks to my Feinn saw and Dremel as well. Interor is also nearing completion as the picture
shows. regards Johan
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Dave, you know I love my Cadillac's, but I have to say, I'm glad you have initiated this thread , it's so nice to see all these pictures of so many fantastic cars, not to forget the added information, submitted by the forum users,
I'm impressed,
I even start thinking about owning one.
Johan
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Thanks for providing this information, it leads to a diameter of about 5 3/4 that's too little for the use I have for them, length would do fine, in and outlet pipe diameter is also below the wanted specs.
Thanks again and good luck selling these.
Johan
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What's the outside diameter of pipes and muffler itself,
thanks Johan
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The distributor is V-12 Cadillac production starting 1931
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This is how it is at my '32 Cadillac hood doors
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Lou,
Thank you, glad you like the pictures and watch progress. I feel honoured, to get this comment from a person with your skills and attention to detail.
Johan
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The top on the car in the right color, finally
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1 take off Bat + attach the ignition box within the engine compartment
2 take out the point base plate, take out adjustment as well, the washer with the internal M4 screw should slide over the cam, the screw presses towards
the flat side of the cam. the washer should freely move circular
the same is said next to the drawing of the washer
3 ignition adjustment to be fitted again, the axial play should be eliminated with the washers in the set
4 Rotor with magnet should be pushed over the washer, signal sensor to be fitted
5 Put all wires in place after the drawing
6 Take out both plugs, put the piston in cylinder one at 0.5 mm before TDC
this goes for all engines
7 Sparkplug from cylinder one with wire to ground
8 Ignition on, Rotor to be turned to the right until spark at plug stops
9 The rotor now has to be tightened with the screw
10The ignition is set
Put everything together, start the engine and have a nice drive.
This is the translation I can give, hope it will lead you the right
way.
Johan
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givin your dimension 36 1/2 and 23 and the fact it has a V-8 emblem it's most likely a 1930 353 V-8 stone guard,
you own the part showing only, no support, no brackets ?
Should you decide to sell, you might want to send me a PM, thanks Johan
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Like to share the current status pictures,
Johan
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Bobs methode would be mine as well, the only thing not to do in my opinion, is hammering the drum, it may brake at the first blow.
There is no need for it either, that is, I never needed to do it.
You should give a big blow on the puller centre rod after the heating process
should it not break loose, leave it over night and try it again the next dat, chance is it will be free in the morning. Please leave the axle nut in place after loosening it, it will prevent damage to the axle thread as well as keeping the drum in place after it comes off with a big bang. It may brake to pieces when it falls on the floor. Johan
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Latest pictures from yesterday, payed the upholstere a visit and progress
is made, as you will notice. I'm very happy with the result till now.
Johan
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Hi,
It has been some time, but now there is interior development to show. Hope you like it as much as I do, Johan
Need help with steering wheel puller
in Technical
Posted
This is a period steering wheel puller, not to buy any more, I think, but you could make one your self. Johan