Johan Boltendal
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Posts posted by Johan Boltendal
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Check your spark at the plugs, if it is there, change the no doubt fouled 12 plugs, the Marvel oil will have destroyed these any way after 7 years of cranking only. If there is no spark at the plugs and there is one at each coil, you have a distributor cap/wire or rotor failure.Allow me to remark you are tacklimg this the wrong way around.
Do not use the ether again it could blow your engine and harm you quite seriously.The same goes for the 12V battery it could ruin your wiring, your gauges and a lot more, bulbs is of the leat interest in this sequence, there is no need for it too, it's like entering you house with a sledge hammer instead of a key.
If you try to restart an engine after so many years, you should better follow the rules, clean the carburators and the tank,fill the tank with new petrol,clean and check the Autovac system,set your points gap, check the ignition and related wiring, replace the engine oil and coolant fluid, take a well loaded 6V battery and it will run,starting at 7 or 8 cylinders and if you are lucky run at all 12 after some time.Let us know when it's running and how you achieved this. Johan
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Thanks for sharing this information.I have never seen an instruction like this,very interesting,
a Cadillac '32 AWP owner
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You might try Classic carburators in Phoenix Arizona,I got a NOS cork float in excellent condition for my '32 Cadillac from this company, their phone nr. 602 971 3300
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Perhaps you have already considered this option,but you can go to a skilled cabinet maker,or any skilled wood working guy and have them made in wood.
Have them cast after this wood examples in brass or aluminum, what ever you prefer. Johan
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http://www.zerofast.com/torque.htm
Have a look at this site, it might help a bit to understand the torgue issue.
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There is a guy overhere in the Netherlands, that rebuilds auto trans for 40 years now, he can do the job, he told me this morning. I gave him a call and he has the parts to rebuild the TH 200 R4 and knows them well.
My e mail is jbmk@planet.nl if you are interested, Johan
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To be acurate, I need to repaint the carburator.the fuel pump and the vacuum pump black again on my '32 Cadillac. What is the best way doing this and I would like, it to last more then a few month's. Hope you can be of help with this casting painting or ? issue. Thanks, Johan
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The carb is used on the '29 and '30 V-8's, Johan
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The best way to tackle this in my opinion;
Put the top material in place, have the mouldings bend to fit, drill the holes needed, see to it that you have a perfect fit, take everything off and paint the car.
Use a small amount of modern car windshield sealer between the top material and the paint upon installing, the result will be lasting and excellent. Johan
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If you are not running the car at the moment take out the plugs after a day or two, have some body start the car and see if coolant comes out of one of the cylinders, to determine the cylinder it concernes, if any.An early indicator
might be a grey white, clean burned plug, due to the coolant that was burned.
Hope you find the bad one.
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Although I doubt if any firm will carry out this job on brake drums, I wouldn't think of it my self in a million years. A safety item of this caliber,I'm getting cold only thinking about it.
Allow me to suggest you find your self some fine used ones, or better still have new ones casted. This to be on the safe side yourself, as well as safety in general.
Do not want to be offensive, but I do think it's a very bad idea towards brake drums.
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You are right the grime has to come off, the grime will shorten the life of the remover extremly fast and the results are bad. The grime can be taken off with the degreaser from the same company though.
The rust being the easiest to remove, is the one that develops on metal when new and doesn't deteriorate more after that. Rusted cast iron comes out as new, the same goes for pressed rusted parts, nuts, bolts and screws. All need to be sub merged for 24 hour in the Remover for the best result.
Heavy rust is difficult it becomes less, but doesn't disappear completely as I learned.
You can shower the bigger parts for 24 hour and they de rust well, but the damp
from this action will be every were. The rear axle de rusting showed me this,
it came out clean but the garage was a disaster after 24 hour spraying.I had under estimated that.Another lesson learned.
Perhaps this helps Johan
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http://www.safestrustremover.com/
Have a look at this web, it works, I use it for over a year now
with excellent results on mild surface rust, the use on heavy pitted rust is not satisfying I must say, but besides that I use it every day.
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http://www.then-now.com/parts.htm Tom Hannaford, he will be able to help you I think. Johan
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Only recently, I have done my very dull '32 bakelite steering wheel, with chrome polish, the smell is awful, working on the stuff, but the result is excellent. Johan
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What I would like to ask, if any,what will be the finish of the aluminum crankcase off a 32 Cadillac V-8, is it left as it is, is it painted aluminum, or different?
How is the finish on other classics with an aluminum crankcase, this information might help as well to make a decision. Thanks
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The battery box cover is missing, '32 and early '33 V-8, as well as V-12 Cadillac, use the same cover.First covers use 4 screws, later ones only 2
Perhaps some body has one that is for sale.
Thanks Johan
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Perhaps you best write them an email or visit the store and tell them what you need,because new material and new applications are found at a regular basis. Good luck.
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What I've been trained on tapered fixing under load,is a dry fit,what I would suggest nowadays is a visit to your Loctite dealer. No doubt there will be a solution for extreme load and easy disassembling, within one of their products.I strongly advise against grease or anti seizure, I've seen to many broken keys and disaster on axles and shafts.To refit damaged ones with the trick Layden B gives will do.These not comming apart afterwards is no issue, grind them off,were junk back then, Johan
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Bruce Blevins of the Packard club had these remade his address
MotorCity Packards
C/O B Blevins
11565 Kings Knights Circle
Grand Blanc Michigan 48439
E-mail was blevinb33@aol.com not sure it still is.
They call these the 3003 that's the nr. Packard used.
Perhaps this will be of help, Johan
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The water flow in a radiator can be measured the following way;
plug the lower outlet, fill it up to the top,take out the lower plug
the radiator should empty in a few seconds with a burst of water, no
water running after the initial burst, if it's coming slow and running for a
while your chances are it's clogged.
Have it checked by a guy familiar with the honeycombs if this happens.
Good luck, Johan
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I agree completely, also mask the rim with two or three layers of dug tape or other to prevent scratching.
Allow me to make a remark, did you have your chromed rings heat treated?
I learned the hard way, all 4 broke on my Cad, after chroming, because the chroming process makes the metal brittle,the heat treatment process corrects this, the rings have their original structure back.
Johan
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I can see your trouble,I started Google and put in 'Oil stain in wool',
several solutions are offered,you might want to have a look.
You might try the result on a sample, good luck Johan
Handset Rivets
in Packard
Posted
http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/ Have a look at their site, it will be very helpful and nice people
to deal with, Johan