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Johan Boltendal

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Everything posted by Johan Boltendal

  1. Hi, looking for a "look a like" replacement set up, for this early closed cannister B-3-AC oil filter, 8 inch long, just over 3 inches diameter, two fittings at the top. Any leads where to find this ? Thanks Johan
  2. You should find out what.s wrong by testing your exhaust gas when the problem is present. A 4 gas tester will tell you what causes your power loss. Fuel or ignition related. From what you describe ignition related has my vote , new condensors are shit, but if they will stay gone, also not comeback. As two previous responders mentioned , cap or rotor, one or both. Would be interested to know what you will find. Please let us know Johan
  3. This picture shows the front seats of a 222/ 272 bodied 370 B as found in the Cadillac Master Body Parts book sixth edition (original example) Interesting to find the difference, compared to car offered at BAT After this Parts book, there is only one seat possible for the passenger, being F-604 for both coupe's body type 222 and 272 The one seat, F-594 only goes for the driver side as well.
  4. Just a remark, if Ed or anyone else has set the distributor on a Sun tester or a like,please don't touch the distributor with a dwell meter or any other tool, no matter how good yopu are at this you will never achieve the exact setttings of the machine, believe me. As far as the Johsons are concernd, they have a bad reputation but if in a correct factory alike condition and function, they work well, mine does for 40 year now and I have done a few Johsons as well. Most overlooked is the flapper valve spring, the correct tension , lenght and fit will make a huge difference. Best way to find this out is by testing on a 4 gas meter. The reading should be about even, at idle and half throttle. Depending on the condition of your engine. the reading should be in the range of 5 - 7 % Co . Tension to big in the spring, or to short a spring, will give reading in the 10-12 % range or even above, too weak, or too long a spring will lead to reading in the 2-3% range or lower. Too strong a spring give too rich mixture, due to lack of air, too weak a spring a lean mixture, due to too much air. New springs should not be accepted having the tension intended by the factory, find this out by 4 gas testing is my advice. You will be surprised how well the engine runs with the right spring and setting The new spring wire thickness comes in 4 different tension versions. The screw setting the mixture, was not intended to ork with the wrong spring tension. That is why the WS Manual ask for special care, handling this spring, in detail. Hope this will help Johan
  5. Very closely, that yellow tag, but there of course. Not exactly the place to be, the Autobahn with many km of the unlimited speed sections, scary I think. Agreed , didn’t dare saying, all look out of place on ‘32 open Cadillac. Your big trunk , filled most likely to the top , made the tour without touching the parts in it.😉 thanks for sharing your pictures with us.
  6. Fantastic dwp , what a beautiful ‘ 32 Cadillac, allow me to make a remark, please take the wrong year ,wrong height off , this very special 16 deserves the right ‘ 32 one, not easy to find, I know, the one now , works against the car. Wish you all the luck finding one. Btw did you succeed with the buy the one for the rds , hope you did.
  7. Hi, this place, next to the Le engine stand hole, or there about, should be the place on the frame to find your number. The pictured nr is '32 know a '33 is the same Johan
  8. Hi, repaired/soted out a Cadillac V-12 from germany, not having run well for 15 years , after comming from the UIS, a beautifull restored one, with 80K miles on it. Please find two pictures attached, 1 is the original cam with the right angle , the two flat spots on the cam center, holding the rotor arm, 90 degree towards the high spot on the cam. picture 2 is the wrong one with the flat spots on the cam at 85 degree to the high spot on the cam. Blue line indicates the direction of the flat spots. The engine responded in the same way, running on the Left bank only , despite spark and fuel on the Ri one. Turned out it fired on the wrong moment due to the offset cam flat spots. On the distributor machine everything is excellent as it should be, because the cam flat spots are of no concern, at setting the distributor involved parts. You can set the distributor , firing at the right time on the left bank , buit not le and ri with this offset cam spots, you can set it on the ri side bank, it won't run on the left after that. It isn't to say this is your problem, but knowing how much time it took, for me to find out, I thought I spare you this. It's not some thing you think off the first, I didn't. I would as said before replace the condensers, the new ones I put in, were gone after 50 miles. Find oem usa build ones if possible. Do you have the orignal Detroits on the engine, or the new build ones, had an interesting exp. with the new ones on a V-16 not running on one side as well. Please share what you find out. Johan
  9. A Bentley V12 without a doubt is the ultimate rare car, the only one existing !
  10. It is a 353 1930 7 pass sedan headlamps and radiator surround are as noticed 1932 air horn is not found often on these 353 engines Fisher body dash and steering wheel also 1930 , horn is also 353
  11. With a stuck float it wouldn't run well, most likely leaking gasket . could be due to ethanol gas or some other additive, the gasket material being eaten. take the carb off and investigate,
  12. Do not know aht the factory did, before my time you know, I use two ways, both with the crank out, one getting piston and rod in from below, second rod in from below, fit the piston and push the piston with rod now attached, down in the bore. Now being able to use a modern ring tool for ease of fit and less risk of breaking a ring. Why the two ways, cast iron existing pistons with the screw fit on the rod, are easier from below, new pistons with spring secure, easier from above. Perhaps this helps . Johan
  13. Hello Dave, perhaps I can give an idea , you know I'm into '30's Cads, have several cars repaired and know what you are exp. Have searched for a long time, for a cause, because I own one now, that has this vibration. The original cast iron piston equiped engines run without a question, vibration free. The one I'm talking about now, had that one apart 3 times btw , still has the engine vibration from about just above idle and from there on it is present, to a degree where the inside rear mirror vibrates as well. It's irritating to say the least. Having this exp. now is an advantage when overhauling an engine now, where ever possible reline and keep the old piston's . I know this isn't science , but from what I have exp, this is the only conclusion I can come up with. Have talked to a few , it has been exp more then once, I learned. Balancing moving parts will help and lessen the trouble, done that, it will never run as good and more quit ,as with cast irons in place, my exp. Have never tried having alu pistons made to a comparable weight , might be a solution, gladly hear if soem one has been there. Hope you will solve this isue one way or another, it takes part of the fun out of driving, it does with me. Johan
  14. Dave, not having the car here only the riser, you have made it clear from your pictures how it functions, that helps a lot, my compliments on the wok you have carried out on the setup om your car. The detailed info from your book maks it even more obvious, related question, with 30's Cadillac ( my known territory) it's essential you have the MPL,is that the same for Buick, or is there a better book to have next to the WSM . Got the message and ordered the new casted part this evening. Thanks agian. Regards Johan
  15. Hi , thank you all for your reply, I've contacted Rand and he cannot help at the moment, we will stay in touch. The new one in the add is for a different engine, as it seems, I'm no familiar with the differences between engines, but from the picture it's not the one. Please find 4 pictures of the 96 C riser attached. Thanks for your replies again. Johan
  16. Hi, trying to help a friend with a broken and warped heat riser on his Buick str 8 31 96 C. Do not know Buick specific details, like to ask for your help with a few questions I have, are the heatrisers used the same and usable for differenty years for the 96, or is this one year only? Is there an interchangeablity with other type Buicks or not. Are the pipes inside the heat riser, in one piece or in 3 , this one has 2x 3 pipes on top of each other. Any leads for recasted ones or a good used one? Thanks for educating me. Johan
  17. Jim sold his buss. to HENNINGSEN MACHINE SHOP scotthenningsen@aol.com 831 455 2377 Scott Henningsen 12 SPRECKELS LANE SALINAS, CA 93908 USA
  18. Gave this float needle fitting idea a thought today, 3 or 5 small pliable strips in the thickness of the gap between float and inner tank, hanging on the outer tank, going towards the bottom of the inner one, would guide the float and needle in the center and should ease the fit. I agree with m-mman there will have been a production based methode. when build in nrs and assembled. when the float needle sits you take out the strips and lower the top to fit the screws. . Never tried , but will certainly do so the next time tackling one. Johan
  19. Hi Jeff , interesting comment from Chris about the pice of wood the driveres carried, what might help, is lessening the movement of the float, I once found an old float with a triangular thin steel wire inserted at at the lower end of the float, height about a 1/8 of an inch. this way not allowing the float to go down to the float housing bottom all the way. normally it wont go that far at a regular fuel supply, but under certain circumstances it happens. The lesser movement of the float will give a shorter movememt of the needle, staying more centered, as well as lesser movement of the hinge. Have used this float stop all the time since I found this and have done a few carbs over the years. But then you may already have this in place . Not using the clip can lead to a stuck needle, if the float rests at the bottom , allowing the hinge to let it fall side ways. Happens if you forget to open the shut off valve at the vacuum tank , how I know....... Did you check the free movement of the new float when closed towards the center tube of the carb, Found some that got stuck due to too small a cap between float an carb tube. Sandpaper will solve that issue. Good luck and please let us know if and how you solved this issue. Johan
  20. I can tell you what it is not , a 16 , it is not a rds but a ccp with roll up windows, 8 or 12 not possible for me from the picture to determine
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