crazycars

My God! What an undertaking!

1922 BUICK VALVE TRAIN OHV PARTS (182833586846) includes rocker arm assemblies, NOS valves, keepers, springs

I think I will research that. Let you know if I turn anything up. Thanks.

This guy has what you need, truckloads of the parts, and reasonable, too: Mike Hawkins Laveen, AZ 602-403-3203

As the supply of ignition points dwindles, especially for 'teens and twenties cars, I've noticed prices soar. I recently paid $100 for a set of points for my 1923 Dodge Brothers phaeton. It seems to me that there must be some way to renew the tungsten tips on points. I'm thinking of using point tips from very commonplace, inexpensive points and then silver soldering them onto the point base of my rare, used up ignition points . Has anyone out there ever heard of such a procedure? I could just go the way of electronic ignition and have my distributor set up to take a 4 cylinder modern Chevy cap but would prefer to stay as original as possible. While on this subject, might there be a way to rebuild a rare distributor cap, too? Reproduction Atwater Kent 4 cylinder caps are selling for $160 and NOS bring $200 or more. Please let me know your thoughts on this.

Just couldn't make it to Hershey this time and it really killed me to miss it. I've never been to the Spring (?) Hershey but might try for it. How does it compare to the fall meet?

Looking for a hand starting crank for my 4 cylinder 1923 Dodge Brothers car. Anyone got a spare they'd care to sell?

looks identical to mine, Howard.

Tell you what; I'm going to Hershey next week. give me measurements for the wheel and I'll bring this picture, too. I could text you or email if I find one. Given the OK, I could then buy it for you and you could pay me back. Likelihood is slim but not impossible. I still think that a highly skilled welder could make an undetectable repair which would look as good as new. I've seen some of these fellows do some real magic. I'm hoping to find some "bargain" AK distributor caps at Hershey, too. I now have three Maxwells: 1915, 1922, 1920 , all touring cars. None will win a trophy but still a lot of fun. Gary Nitkin

I am really sorry about your present state of health. I sincerely hope you beat this thing. Do not give in - try to stay strong Regarding the steering wheel spider: seems to me most anything can be repaired, possibly by a skilled welder or machinist. Nothing better than a Maxwell despite the fact that they can be a royal pain in the butt. Gary Nitkin

I'd recommend 20W-50. Had slant sixes for years. Love them.

My recently purchased 1923 Dodge Bros touring car is missing the oil pump. There are three holes where it bolts into the bottom of the pan but, looking inside with a high powered flashlight, I can't see anything that looks like it would drive the pump gear. There is a depression that clearly is made to hold the top of the pump shaft in place. Anyone know anything about this? Would be of great help!

I own a '15 and a '20, both touring cars. True, not much out there. You have to get pretty creative, too. I had a replacement timing gear for the '20 but the center hub was wrong. I got a very skilled machinist to fit my original hub into the center of the new gear. Many parts that are supposed to fit, often don't. When you get them running right, they are really nice cars.

got the head gasket for my 1926 model 50 touring car from Olsons. Perfect fit but not cheap.

Hi gents, Have a problem and hoping someone out there has advice to offer. After the motor self-destructed on my 40 Dodge, I replaced it with a 1937 Chrysler motor which, according to the guy I bought it from, ran good. Everything bolted up fine (had to do some fitting for the radiator as this motor was a little longer). Starts up but won't stay running unless I keep continually pumping the gas. The carb on it was a known good one but I replaced it anyway and results stayed the same. Points and timing (almost new) are all at spec. I'm gravity feeding it gas for now so the fuel pump isn't the source of the trouble. Only one source of vacuum and that's capped. I tightened up the intake bolts but no difference. (can't keep it running long enough to spray the gaskets with carb cleaner to listen for speed increase). Closing the choke and adjusting the idle seem to make little if any difference. Sometimes, while pumping it , I get a "lean pop", too. I've worked on a lot of these cars over the years but have never run into this issue. If any of you have some ideas, I'd sure appreciate hearing them! Thanks.

I recently purchased a 1915 (as stated on the title) Maxwell touring car. It has a magneto system. My '20 has the AK distributor which I am much more familiar with.

1922 BUICK 4 CYL MOTOR ASSEMBLY (182360764564) 1922 BUICK 4 CYL MOTOR ASSEMBLY (182360764564) Shipping cost: See description 1922 Buick 4 cyl motor plus intake and exhaust manifold complete with heat riser and Marvel carb. Also includes bell housing, pan, and NOS valves and valve springs. Cylinders look to be in nice condition with very little cylinder ridge. Purchased years ago as part of a lot of 22 Buick parts. Car was sold. See ad on eBay. Link above. $500.00

WTB: driveshaft for 1921 Hupmobile. I purchased an unfinished project and this was missing.

Looking for 1952 Ford automobile grill. Not perfect just for a driver.

Anyone know of a source for replacement rocker panels and quarter panels for a 53 Lincoln?

I need a 1953 Lincoln tail light lens. Any condition as long as not broken. Thanks.

1922 Model T Ford coupe?

Need taillight assemblies for 1953 Lincoln. Any condition. Also, headlight trim rings. Thanks!

Looking to buy complete taillight assemblies for 1953 Lincoln. Will take any condition. WTB headlight trim rings, also. Thanks