crazycars

Wow! I just wrote to the guy, and told him I would buy his motor if he would ship it. Thanks so much! Also, these pictures are a BIG help.

Thank you for taking the time to write. The information you stated is correct. I never had the oil pump or the related parts so I never even knew they were missing! The motor ran for a while (probably on just the oil dippers) then seized. This is pretty sad for someone who considers himself a pretty decent mechanic! I have looked into the possibility of using a later 4 cyl. Chrysler oil pump (which I can obtain) but these are gear driven. My system drives the oil pump shaft from an eccentric lobe on the camshaft. If you happen to have the pump and the related parts or know where I might find them, I would be very grateful and would gladly pay your price for these items. gary

My 1920 Maxwell motor is missing the plunger-type oiling system which is located in the oil pan. This plunger runs off a shaft which is driven by the cam shaft. The pressurized oil is distributed to the main bearings thru a tubing system. I know this is really a long shot but perhaps someone out there has a junk motor or extra parts that they'd be willing to sell.

newly rebuilt Maxwell motor recently seized up on a drive and, after dropping the pan, I discovered no pickup tube to the oil pump. From what I have read, there was some sort of plunger set up in the pan, also. Looking at the bottom edge of the block there appears to be a triangular area with two threaded holes which, I assume, were for the flange of this tube. Is anyone familiar with the oiling system of these cars? Your help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

I have written to the seller requesting , at least, some decent pictures as well as a description of the condition, particularly the wood (or what's left of it). Got a quick response with two vague pictures and no details. Agrees, this is a crime. What a waste!

1926 Model 50 has four wheel, externally contracting, hydraulic brakes. I know this for a fact as I own one of these cars. Brakes DO need frequent attention.

In a pinch, you can run a Model A Ford carburetor (Zenith or Tillotson). I have one on my 26 Model 50 touring car and it runs really well. You can adjust the mixture from inside the car as you drive, too.

Your master cylinder reservoir tank seems to be missing. Mine is located on the driver's side firewall. Biggest problem I've had with my 26 Model 50 has been the brakes. Since the mc is located lower than the wheel cylinders, I have found it necessary to pressure bleed the system in order to get pedal. The bands are quite difficult to adjust correctly but I think I finally have it down. These are neat cars. I have a touring model.

I own a 1920 Maxwell touring car. Very nice shape, had engine rebuilt but it seized last week. Still trying to get up the courage to pull it and find out what went wrong. Gary in RI

I am missing my h.l. stancions for my 24 REO model T6. From what I can guess, the headlights fit on top of rounded posts. I am guessing that these posts then taper to a flattened shank which slides into the fender tubes located on the inner side of the fenders. Two bolts hold them (and the fender bar) into place on either side. These appear to be independent from the horizontal bar which holds the two fenders in line. Would someone kindly advise me? Thanks!

Very good driving cars, solid with only small rot areas, straight, could use paint, original 327. Could use some wheel cyl work. $1500.00 located in RI. gdenn@aol.com

Does anyone out there have a spare set of headlight stanchions they'd like to sell? Looking for the type that fit into the inner fender walls. gdenn@aol.com

Excellent, smooth running car, fully operational. Solid body with only very minimal rot. Some dings and a few small dents. Solid floors and trunk. New power brake booster and mc. COuld use some wheel cylinder work. 401-662-0702. RI

This is amazing! Good USED Buick caps sell for over $200 each. Thank you for posting this!

I will check these points and report back. Thank you for taking the time to write.

My (newly acquired) '22 Coupe immediately stops running when switched to magneto. The mag does light a 12 v tail light bulb (mag post wire disconnected) while the car is running. I have tried directly wiring the mag post to the hot lead on the switch but still get same result. I would appreciate any ideas you folks have on this subject. Thanks!

Needed: fan bracket which bolts (with 3 head bolts) to the engine head. 1924 REO T6. Does anyone have a spare they would be willing to sell? gdenn@aol.com

This thief has been around forever. He keeps changing names so he can get back on the forum.

I am attempting to assemble a basket case 1924 Reo Touring car in which the chassis and motor were restored. All the rest is in boxes and baggies. The multi disc clutch confuses me, however. (Yes, this was dissembled, too) Was this type clutch intended to run in oil or dry? I do have a parts book which provided pretty decent diagrams but this is a puzzler. All answers and advice will be greatly appreciated.

Call this guy, Josh at 508-540-7827. He deals just in 30's thru 50's Plymouth parts and has TONS, both new and used, of stuff. He's located on Cape Cod.

Thank you for that information. Really helpful and determines that my coupe is a '22. I have owned, at least one hundred cars in my lifetime and dozens of antique cars. This coupe is probably among the most interesting.

Do any of you fine folks know how to identify the actual body year of a Model T Ford. I have just acquired, what I was told is, a 1922 Coupe. The information could be wrong. Also, the motor was replaced with a later one. I will need to order top and door wood kits but, judging from Lang's catalog, there are different kits for different year coupes, 20-23 and 24-25. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This is a really interesting project!

Thank you kindly for this advice. BTW, the interior is pretty well shot so no worries about preserving it. Why I take on the toughest projects, I'll never know! Kind of like the lost dog that followed me home.

Mark Shaw is 100% correct! When the car was dragged backwards into the shop on wooden skids (broken spokes), the spring shackles slanted all the way forward. Since they hadn't been lubed in ages, they never rebounded. Thanks to all for your help. This is what makes this forum really great.

thank you for the picture. I plan to purchase some Buick reference books, too. This chassis has only two wheel brakes making it pre-1924 and probably original.