crazycars

why not get it sleeved at a machine shop?

I successfully removed the distributor using the following technique: I backed off the four retaining distributor bolts most of the way then rocked the distributor body to move it away from the block. After applying a little WD-40 to the edges of the caps, I was able to partially remove the covers exposing the caps themselves. The extra space between the distributor and the block allowed me more movement to rock the caps and gently lift the edges with a pen knife. The distributor body was then unbolted and, after disconnecting the wires, lifted out. As I suspected, the points were frosted over. I'm hoping that a good cleaning and filing without disturbing the settings will allow the car to start. I will let you know. Thank you all for your comments and advice.

Would appreciate any help with procedure to access distributors to file frosted points on long stored 1948 Lincoln Continental. I have worked on dozens of antique cars but this thing is like something from outer space! Is there some special method used to get the distributor caps off? Pictures would be a super help! Thanks!

pictures and prices please

1921 Hupmobile touring car. I purchased this car several years ago from a closed restoration shop. The car owner had defaulted on payments and gave the car over to the shop. It has undergone partial restoration, to include; rotisserie chassis restoration including brakes, front end components, springs, stripping and painting, wood spokes and new tires/tubes. Body (off frame) was restored nicely with a good (not perfect) paint job. Note light damage to front left fender, pictured. Motor was completely rebuilt. I connected all lines, etc. and gave it the first start. Runs well, break in oil changed, keeps a steady 5-7 lbs correct oil pressure. Interior needs restoration. I have all the side panels (great for patterns), remainder of the top, side curtains. Missing are the following: spark and throttle steering wheel controls, spare tire assembly, tail light lenses, radiator badge, one radiator support rod, speedometer cable. Chrome work needs to be done. Car runs and drives, no leaks or smoking. Generator does not function so, for ease of starting, I am using a 12 v battery with lights disconnected. New exhaust system. Wooden top bows are solid. While not perfect, this is a "mostly done" rare and valuable car seldom seen among antique vehicles. Could be finished without spending a lot of money. No title, bill of sale only. $5000.00 located in RI.

I purchased a generator from a model 52 and it was too long to fit my 1926 model 50.

I've been reading about the post war Lincoln Continentals with the V12 motor and I've seen posts about ignition coil rebuilding at a cost well over $200. What is so special about these coils and why can't ordinary 6v (?) coil(s) be used? All answers appreciated! (prices on ignition rotors are crazy , too!)

Good condition. Measures 3 1/8 inches id. $35 includes shipping

I have a pretty nice 1915 Maxwell but the top bows and the "metal tubes" that hold the wooden bows are a real mess. I've seen recommendations for craftsmen who can fabricate new wood bows but are there any guys around who can fabricate the bows and the metal tubes that they are fitted to? All answers greatly appreciated.

Trini is absolutely correct. Turn it over one more time. #1 and #4 are companion cylinders.

10w-30 is fine.

I have a 27 Chrysler 50 and have always had good results with the following easy timing method: remove #1 sparkplug. With the hand crank, turn the motor over slowly (ignition 0ff) with your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Turn until you feel air pressure on your thumb. After loosening the hold down distributor plate bolt, stop and turn distributor so the rotor points to the cap terminal which connects to the #1 plug. (replace the cap and make a crayon mark if necessary on the distributor body). Try to set it so the points are just slightly open. This may take several tries but it will work. Later, you can advance the timing for better running. This motor does not have any timing marks. There is no hole in the bell housing like later Chrysler or Plymouth products.

Even though it's considered a four day event, goings on in fall Hershey take place mostly on Wednesday and Thursday lately. Friday and Saturday are pretty well useless.

eBay item number: 183941098544 Buy it now $1900

Has anyone else noticed how short lived todays' 6 volt car batteries are compared to the ones made years ago? Also, any of you guys have a favorite brand that you use in your antique cars?

Jim, I'm going to take the 3 hour drive Tuesday afternoon to the garage where my Buick was stored and look for the missing parts. The place is a real mess but there's a chance I might find the oil pump parts . Before you take any action, let me get back to you. I'll write you Tuesday late afternoon. Thanks for everything. Gary

This information is REALLY helpful! You are a life saver. I've worked on dozens of 20's and 30's cars in my time, but this Buick is new to me. Thanks a million!

Much appreciated! Thanks.

I was told 25-28 would fit. Have you got parts?

Need all parts for oil pump system for 1928-51 Buick 6 cylinder motor: pump drive, coupler, cam gear, oil pressure valve, anything else related. All I have is the base. I won't haggle, will pay your price. Thanks.

Thank you. This information is very helpful.

Thanks for writing. I have the 28-51

She's the big one. 28-51. Thanks for writing!

Large series, I believe.