junkyardjeff
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Posts posted by junkyardjeff
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It is back togather and running,had a little scare when one rocker arm popped off and a miss developed but it is now running smoother then it ever did. It always had a tick which is now gone so I am thinking it did have one bad guide or a bent valve from sitting 30 years,just have to find the exhaust leak and its done.
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I do not have any pictures
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I have a 68 Electra in the shop for a interior and while waiting on materials I started tinkering with the glove box lock that fell apart on the owner,the lock cylinder comes out first and then there is a retaining nut kind of built in the dash that holds on the rest and it takes a special tool. It looked like it was a 1/2 allen but no its not so I posted in the Buick section hoping someone with a 68 B body shop manual can get me the part number for that tool if its mentioned in it.
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One would think there is no special tools to work on a 68 Electra interior but there is one for the retaining nut for the glove box lock so if anyone could find the part number for that tool I would appriciate it,I am going to see if I can find one.
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I made sure I got a set of gaskets that are much closer to the port size this time.
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There were at least 4 shops in town that installed those seat covers many years ago and some with in a few blocks of each other,two of those shops are still in business and I worked at those two over the last 30 years. One shop still had rolls of that type material that was never used during the 14 years I worked there and a few years after I quit I went back and he threw them out.
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I might know where a 63 is in a junkyard that might have a p/s box
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Just picked up the heads today and now comes the fun part to put it back togather,I was going to get a later set of heads but did not want to drill new steam holes in the block and worry about if I got a set on heads that were cracked.
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Original heads are being rebuilt.
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I need to figure out what I will do with my vehicles,most of mine are really not worth much but if I know serious health problems are on the way I will start distributing them in the family and leave the daily driver s for anyone to fight over.
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That quote did not include hardened seats.
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I got water in the tank of that car when I gassed up at a station that had recently reopened after sitting for a year or so,I had spent a few years and trying alot of things to get heat from the heater in that car including a new heater core that was worse then the original and the 195 was the first done.
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I always thought those older motors were the best but even though the later motors did not have the power they were able to go more miles before repair,I am a little dissapaointed those heads did not get to 50,000 before wearing out. When it goes back togather I will take the 190 degree thermostat out of it,I was chasing down a lack of heat issue from the heater which turned out to be a bad heater core and never removed it so i had been running it a little hot.
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Got some bad news from the machine shop,those heads that only have 48,000 miles are worn out and need all new intake valves and guides plus the one exhaust valve and will be around 500 dollars to repair. He told me all the motors of this era were like that and I was told by others it was common to for that era of motors to need a valve job around 50,000 so I am going to pick up a later set of heads to have gone through. I have put over 200,000 on the late 80s and up 302s without any valve problems so its going to get a set of E7 heads.
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It was done when the Cord was just a old car and definately not worth what it is today,how would the parts availability been back in the 50s to have kept the original motor going.
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There was a Fairlane 2 door sedan so that interior kit should work but would be a little more fancy then what a Customline came with.
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Its not a T but nthat is all I can tell you.
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I definately will check how the intake gaskets fit before dropping the intake back on it.
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I installed a 16,000 original mile 302 in my 65 custom 500 10 years ago and have since put 32,000 miles on it and burnt a exhaust valve last sunday,I was going to blame it on the crappy gas we have today but after I tore the motor apart I think I might have found the problem. 8 years ago I changed it over to a 4 bbl since I had to pull the intake to replace what I thought was a bad lifter that was making noise after the 30 storage of the motor,instead of buying a good name brand of intake gasket I ordered a installation kit with the intake and the gaskets are too big around the intake ports and the gaskets were haging a little too low and not much to seal on the bottom of the ports so I think it was running a little lean and also using oil that it did not do until the intake change.
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The truck trans is different and will not work unless a longer driveshaft is made since it is shorter.
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I can come back down and help you and should have a newer set of heads on the 65 for the next trip there.
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That motor is definately tired,plenty of smoke out the tail pipe and road draft tube and the oil cap. We did not check the point gap but the timing was retarded about a 3/4 inch away from the mark,I wish I could have been more helpfull but its rebuild time for that 223. I drove my 65 custom 500 down there and burnt a exhaust valve on the trip so it looks like I have some work to do too.
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I posted on a 60s ford truck site and will see what comes up.
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I found the number for the 223 near me and will give them a call tomorrow night after work and i wsh I could have done much more.
Anybody have a 68 B body Buick shop manual
in Buick - General
Posted
Its not the lock cylinder that needs the special tool but its what the shop manual calls the escutcheon that holds the rest of the lock on that needs it.