Hemi Dude

There you go. Intake manifold attached by long bolts, exhaust with studs in the head and nuts attaching. One piece gasket in between. As you can see from an untouched head, the gasket rarely leaks unless one of the 2 end exhaust studs breaks. That happens at the furthest forward [upper right] stud, which is removed from the head in this photo.

That is the best I have, but I’ll take a photo of a bare head from the the intake/exhaust side.

What we are use to, works best! Ice-Picks are ‘old School’, like us.

Generally, a ''Quick" yank at the wiring connector, NOT THE WIRES!' will get the wiring insulator disconnected from the injector. If that doesn't work easily and you wish to be more delicate, use a sharp pointed pick to slip in between the retaining clip and the wire insulator on either side of the injector and rotate the clip around about 45 degrees and it will become loose on the other side as well and you can easily pull off the connector without worrying. Repeat on the remaining injectors.

You can get gaskets at most Auto Parts stores or at RockAuto.com

Be VERY sure that the leak is at the gasket sealing the head to the manifolds! This is a big job due to the crampness of the manifolds to the firewall and the turbo attached below. Do you plan to be using a lift so you can stand under the car to do some of the disconnecting and re-connecting? Are there signs of any broken manifold attaching ‘STUDS’? If the exhaust has leaks, it is generally at the ends of the manifold rather than the middle, caused by a loose or broken off retaining nut. When I had my shop, I found it easier to remove the cylinder head with the manifolds attached, then remove the manifolds on the workbench. That way the engine got a new head gasket as well, which is a good ‘Preventative measure’ as the head gasket will often be the failing factor that causes engine overheating and failure. Also, any broken studs are easily accessed for replacement.

You need to remove the intake manifold as well. The gasket covers all 8 ports.

If your leak suddenly appeared and you suspect it at the manifold to exhaust pipe connection, I would highly suspect a plugged Catalytic Converter. This occurs with older cars after many years of service so this does not mean that there is anything wrong with your engine. The exhaust repair shop personal should be familiar with this happening, if they don't, find another shop because this guy is "Not in the know". Some parts from inside the converter may also have passed on to the muffler which then could also be restricted somewhat. Doing the work yourself could become a problem if it is the converter, unless you have the equipment to replace it with.

You guys will just have to rely on all the information Bob French is gathering in his library of 'TCA Owners Club Information."

The car is not in the TC Owners registry so we have no information about the car. You have a good guide price list above.

I suspect you have discovered the problem yourself, the front brake hoses. I have a new pair to put on my TC as well. Keep us informed.

I placed this add here in case anyone was interested in buying a 16v TC. I sold the car because we had no room for it when we moved, It was a fine running car and I had basically re-sealed the engine due to an oil leak and done a few ‘upgrades’. The 2 owners after me were TC America members and by the look of the mileage on the odometer, I think it still belongs to the 2nd owner as the Compressor belt was missing when I last saw the car and it still is, plus the odometer reading has hardly changed either.`

PM message sent to you.

PM to you!

Look at the top right side of this page for a PM, click on the ENVELOPE(NEXT TO THE BELL) and on the message header. I'll chat with you there. Hemi...

I just spoke with the owner of a 91 and he doesn’t have the key hole halo lights. So, they must have eliminated them for some reason

Well, either the door lock cylinders have been replaced OR they ran out of illuminated ones there in Italy when the cars were produced. That’s a good question to ask all the readers here, “Do yours light up when you lift the door handle?” Just a short reply will do.

In checking my 1990 Parts Manual, I see that the door halo light is still listed as parts of the car though the switch part number is different. So, yours and every TC should have the halo lamps in each door key lock surround already. If it does not come on when the door release handle is lifted, it is likely a broken connector to the L.E.D.

That wiper arm with washer nozzle is the same on both left and right side of the windshield and is also found on the Daytona/Laser 'G' body cars as well as on the LeBaron 'J' body cars. Surely you should be able to find a good used one in a local salvage yard. Happy Easter.

1989 Chrysler TC #2018-DFW by Maserati 16V 5 Speed Manual 16v Turbocharged I4 5 Speed Manual All Photos This TC use to be mine 23 years ago. Since I owned it, it has only been driven 19,996 miles according to the odometer that I know works. AC belt is missing for some reason, otherwise to looks the same as when I sold it.

I see you bought this car in 2022 some time. How much did you fix on it after you got it? I see that you have not yet replaced the Accumulator which is a MAJOR contributor to the ABS brake system failing. The price you are asking is largely dependent on the repairs you have done so far.

It does appear that 'someone' tapped the bumper with their vehicle after all, or your car "tapped" something.

Yes I sent you a PM Look upper right of THIS page [ENVELOPE]

Nope!

I have an ample supply of NEW Goodyear brand SQUARE tooth 16V Timing Belts..