Hemi Dude

You can interchange ECMs between various platforms as long as they are equipped with the same basic components. A Daytona or a LeBaron ECM (SMEC) will very likely give you better performance in a TC with the 8 valve engine than the original TC SMEC.

As a father of 3, I found that it was always best to keep those kind of words in my head, if I ever even thought them. Teach them patience even during adverse conditions.

You wrote; Thanks again and if in the future anyone wants pics or the outstanding instructions, or advice on how to crack your windshield, let me know. Yes, I think we might all want the scoop on that!

I guess that is the difference between a shade tree mechanic and a 60+ professional, if wiper bushings is the toughest, don’t try any major repairs.

Larry Carlson has hundreds of TCs in his ‘junk yard.’ Them there is Marty at ARIZONA parts! Why don’t one of you guys respond to people’s needs ?

I would recommend that you hold on to it as long as you have a TC that could use it. Our ECMs fail very rarely, however you might be very sorry if you sold it and later needed one.

Even if it were, how would you remove it and replace it? Just buy the striker and replace it.

Born Thanksgiving time in 1940, I wold think that you were taught in school by repetition upon repetition. That being said, your teachers didn't just 'give' you the answers, you had to work for them! That same practice should be observed when diagnosing a problem on your car. I, as the instructor, gave you my "educated Guess". It was up to you to actually perform the mundane task of performing the assigned task, in order for you to follow and observe the results. As you found the corrosion in one of the connectors while replacing or at least attempting to remove the hall plate, is commendable. Being your senior by one year and one month, I am still disappointed that you did not follow the instructions given. I would not give you a passing grade on this assignment. Dr. TC.

I understood that to be the case. If you just replace ‘it’, you learn nothing! That is why I went to such a long explanation as to ‘how’ YOU can test it on your car without any test equipment. ’We’ learn nothing doing the ‘replace until it works’ method!. I must say, I get very tired trying to TEACH people HOW to do ‘it’, when all they want is the quick fix and are too lazy to ‘WANT’ to learn. That is part of the reason we have the society ’we have’. When I went to school, WE learned HOW TO LEARN, not just ANSWERS without knowing HOW WE REACHED THEM.

I understand what you are trying to convey, the answer is When you take your car 🚘 out for a test drive to reproduce the “hiccup“, drive at a steady speed, on an open highway, at the posted speed with the cruise control set at the speed limit. Be aware of the tachometer and RPM the needle is on in particular! If the hiccup occurs as the tach needle DROPS from that RPM you have been traveling at, continue and see if that happens over and over. It is only a minute drop so you must be focused, but also on your driving. IF THIS HAPPENS: My conclusion is that the Hall Plate is the cause of your problem. You hopefully know where it is and what to do. REPLACE IT. If you are prepared with a new one or even a used one and long Phillips head screwdriver, stop somewhere safe and replace it and double check the replacement on the way back.

Yes, if it has rear disc brakes

Yes I can agree on this philosophy right up to the time you attempt to install the camshaft sprocket back onto the cam. As you release the upward tension of the supporting strap or whatever is maintaining tension on the timing belt, the weight of the belt itself will first slip out of the intermediate shafts sprocket. This is what happened to no1’s engine. Then you may slightly rotate the camshaft sprocket in order to slip the sprocket into alignment with the camshaft key and before you know it, the belt system is out of sync. I have worked on these engines as the main engines in my customer’s vehicles since they were introduced in 1981 until I retired in 2011, and on my own 2.2 and 2.5 engines that I built and maintained to this day. I operated Hemi’s Independent Chrysler Repair in Ventura, CA from 1988 to the end of 2011. Taking a chance on missing just one cog on the intermediate shaft sprocket will result in AT LEAST seeing the distributor turned either left (CCW) or right (CW) in order to have the distributor timed to the correct timing. If the distributor in your 2.2/2.5 is not positioned in what looks like a straight horizontal plane with the engine, you can be sure that your basic cam/crank/intermediate shaft timing is incorrect. As for me, a professional mechanic of 64 years, I will always remove the right wheel and the crankshaft belt sprocket and the lower timing cover and VERIFY that the alignment is correct the FIRST time rather than ‘hope’ I got it right and later have to do it over after fully assembling the engine and finding that the engine won’t start. Yes, I know there are other items that require removal for access, as well. And just “One more thing”, as Colombo use to say. If your engine requires the removal of the head, it would be foolish not to replace the timing belt, it generally costs less than a head gasket set and certainly less than a tank of gas in our TC these days.

Same ABS system.

His car 1989 Chrysler’s TC by Maserati

When you have your test equipment, you should be able to test and find the problem. It could possibly be an intermittent power relay, and that is just a wild guess. The fact that it is the same symptom from both units is unusual. Keep us posted.

Ah, so it was the brushes that were worn down to the point of not making good contact that caused the intermittent charging / not charging that made the Volt meter act so erratically. Glad you got it fixed. After the fact diagnosing is some times easier than before the facts are found.

That is not caused externally. That is a hydraulic loss in the hydraulic assembly, AKA master cylinder. No tone wheel or ring or sensor would cause this condition. When the pedal goes to the floor, which is an indication of the piston seal in the hydraulic unit failing or it could be valve body related, but it will be within the assembly, not outside of it. There is no place for the fluid to escape to unless there is a sizable leak at some location you should be able to see.

??? There is actually a Facebook Chrysler TC Maserati group ??? “What LITTLE I know! “ Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg. Jason McELweenie/Flickr The origins of Facebook have been in dispute since the very week a 19-year-old Mark Zuckerberg launched the site as a Harvard sophomore. I DON’T DO FACEBOOK!

That is a strange result, goes to show how good those ”rebuilt” units are. When I asked a rebuilder many years ago if they used NEW parts to rebuild the ABS units, he told me “We use the best used parts we can find.” What do you think of such a statement? That is why I did the swap on my TC which now has 297,000 miles on it and the vacuum booster/4 wheel disc brake master cylinder “conversion” is doing real fine. Of course I don’t encounter snow and ice here in Arizona, but WHO would take his TC out in that kind of weather? As for the particular result after replacement, the problem cannot be in anything beyond the ABS unit, such as in the hydraulic system. Better get another unit or your money back! Or you could decide to ‘re-decide’. I do wonder where you got the ‘rebuilt’ unit from?

Thats easy to adjust! Just turn the 2 adjusting screws up a little, and i always grab the trunk lid at the very bottom. You get a firmer hold of it there.

That’s a good deal! Oxygen sensor is for a 3 wire system NOT for later ‘89 4 wire system.. Just a little help for potential buyers.

Thank you NILE for your informative update, i totally agree with your recomendations. Are you coming to the TCA Owners Meet?

No, I almost never replace rear shocks unless they are completely worn out. I like the soft rear suspension feel. I drive alone and don’t do any ‘tricks’ with this car. It’s my long distance cruiser. KYBs are good shocks, just don't get them too hard, it tends to make the car loose.

I’ve been using MONROE all the years that I was in business, I still have several sets on the shelves in my garage for all our old MOPARS.

You could always get yourself a removable steering wheel for a NASCAR or other race car. Then you could be real COOL.