alsfarms

Thanks for your write up. I have read about some of the information about the Ofeldt boiler. If I were to build/restore a Locomobile I would choose that design boiler. Al

Thanks Joe, I have several options floating around. I absolutely do not want to bugger up the valve caps during the removal process! Al

Gary, Your efforts are paying off! Your racer is going to be blessed with a terrific body! I am dismayed that all the good tech stuff is either on one coast or the other. The piece of your body that is in the above picture con sits of how many joined together pieces? I have used the "warm" Ford grey on a couple of po4rjects myself and like it! To me, you have chosen the color wisely, but that is not my call anyway. Al

How many Locomobile steamers are up and running, this spring after winter hibernation? Al

I am looking for someone who has a complete copy of this manual. Al

Hello Al, I absolutely agree with you. A socket will be my last choice and NO 12 point. I think also that you run a big risk of the socket moving during the whammer exercise and potentially round or damage the corners of the cap. Al

Does anyone have Timken hubcap wrench for sale? I need a wrench with a 2-1/2" octagon end and a 1-3/4" hexagon on the other end. Al

Hello Joe, I am concerned that a pressed socket or slugger wrench may flex a bit and foul the corners of the valve cage cap. But, If you happen to have aspare and loose socket I would consider it. Al

# 5 Buffalo? What application or are you willing to do machine work to fit? Al

Ron, I am interested to hear the "rest of the story" you stopped on. I would also like to understand more of the theory of the Ofeldt design boiler. A while ago I about bit on a replica steamer and had planned to use the Ofeldt boiler for steam generation. I then backed off and decided to get a more pure Locomobile project. Al

Hello Dave, Thanks for the posting the pictures of the Locomobile steam car. They are delightful little guys! I will try to give you a buzz. What day or time is best to get in touch with you? I am rather tangled up with the Utah Golden Spike doings for a couple of days. Do you have any more of the story/history behind your Locomobile? How close is El Paso to Carlsbad Caverns? I may be at the caverns in a week or two on another family event. Al

Hello Chris, I try to think of all the angles but your idea of retaining the wrench to the cap via the center spark plug hole is something that I had not considered! Thanks for the idea. I may get a custom wrench cut out with a CNC plasma cutter, then finish the fit with a file to get the best fit possible. I would then have a go at getting the caps out of the way for additional work to the valves and jugs. Thanks again for your comment, that is the great thing about these forums! Al

Hello Joe, Yet another step on the road to recovery of your Mitchell. Al

Hello Mike, Patience is a virtue for sure when dealing with some of our projects. Al

Hello Ron, If you track down any good information regarding the old Locomobile Steam car registry and serial numbers and you are willing, please post here to keep us invigorated and informed. Al

Hello Paul, Is the hubcap wrench shown above something you have for sale or is it from your "Keeper" collection? Al

Do you have any idea who I could contact to see if the little Locomobile steam engine is still available? Al

Hello Paul, As you are a collector or these vintage hubcap wrenches, DO you think they are heavy duty enough to be up to the task of taking some impact to get the Valve cage caps off an engine block. As mentioned, plenty of soak-um, easy on the heat then cautious impact on the wrench and the cap should come off. Al

Hello Mike, Thanks for looking in your stash! Too bad that nothing is quite right. I have thought of getting a shop with a CNC plasma torch to cut me a tool, as you have suggested. I just want/need the tool to fit like a finger in a glove to minimize the opportunity for damage during the removal and install process. NO PIPE WRENCH OR COLD CHISEL! Al

What recommendations can be shared here in choosing the right tool to remove these valve cages with out doing collateral damage? The 6 flat cap is 1-3/4" across the flats and the 8 flat cap is 2-1/2" across the flats. I can tell that a pipe wrench has been used in a crude attempt in the past, and that is a terrible idea. Al

Second thought, I just read your response to Ray. That idea is also a good option, if you have a trusted radiator guy that can do better work than you and it doesn't take your left leg and two fingers to finance the job. Your leg is an important thing to you getting around! Al

Good Morning Mike, This time of year is very easy for me to stay overly busy with things "not auto related". I just noticed that my responses to you have been off, just a bit, and for that I apologize! You are a very creative craftsman in how you addressed a mechanical need to improve a weak point in your exhaust system. You and I must have been poured out of the same boot as I would have made a very similar approach to that very problem. Then how you devised to make the brackets all the same instead of some rather crude thing that we Utah farmers would have tried, you did it right. My thinking on the radiator issue mentioned above, I don't have faith in the previous repair story you were told. Wear, wing nut an piles of solder, oh no. (Almost sounds like the Wizard of Oz)! If I were in your predicament, I think I would actually approach the core first, clean clean clean and then adequate flux, control the heat from doing collateral damage and fix the leak in the core. I would then approach the solder that needs removal and some additional love. As good a craftsman as you are, I know you could facilitate a redo and end up with a very much nicer job and get the darn leak stopped at the same time. I would then approach the worn side trim. I agree, I would form a new replacement piece, remove what is needed and clean clean clean then solder in the repair piece in place. Lastly, if the dents in the top tank skin had some deeper gashes, I might be nervous, but I think you could likely build some type of long reach tool that you could use from the inside to dolly out the dings. You may not get them out perfectly but I would bet that you could tidy those dings to where it appears much cleaner and would not damage the integrity of the brass skin. Now be sure of this Mike, the above are simply my "two cent" comments and would be my approach. You have the making of a very nice looking radiator, but one that has a few issues. The radiator, for my Locomobile, needs both sides replaced from top to bottom and I am not scared of that job. With care, I think your radiator could be made to look better and you would end up with something that does not leak as a bonus. Al

Your thinking, planning and execution are all great! Nice end results! Al

Hello Mike, Here you will see pictures of the two different Brass Valve Cage covers. The six flat covers are 1-3/4" across flats. The 8 flat covers are 2-1/2" across flats. I do not need a slugging or striking wrench, but something that fits nice to the hex or octagonal shape and that I can with some heat, soaking and gentle persuasion remove the caps without damage. Let me know what extra tool you may have.

Thanks for the postings! Al