alsfarms

Do you have any idea who I could contact to see if the little Locomobile steam engine is still available? Al

Hello Paul, As you are a collector or these vintage hubcap wrenches, DO you think they are heavy duty enough to be up to the task of taking some impact to get the Valve cage caps off an engine block. As mentioned, plenty of soak-um, easy on the heat then cautious impact on the wrench and the cap should come off. Al

Hello Mike, Thanks for looking in your stash! Too bad that nothing is quite right. I have thought of getting a shop with a CNC plasma torch to cut me a tool, as you have suggested. I just want/need the tool to fit like a finger in a glove to minimize the opportunity for damage during the removal and install process. NO PIPE WRENCH OR COLD CHISEL! Al

What recommendations can be shared here in choosing the right tool to remove these valve cages with out doing collateral damage? The 6 flat cap is 1-3/4" across the flats and the 8 flat cap is 2-1/2" across the flats. I can tell that a pipe wrench has been used in a crude attempt in the past, and that is a terrible idea. Al

Second thought, I just read your response to Ray. That idea is also a good option, if you have a trusted radiator guy that can do better work than you and it doesn't take your left leg and two fingers to finance the job. Your leg is an important thing to you getting around! Al

Good Morning Mike, This time of year is very easy for me to stay overly busy with things "not auto related". I just noticed that my responses to you have been off, just a bit, and for that I apologize! You are a very creative craftsman in how you addressed a mechanical need to improve a weak point in your exhaust system. You and I must have been poured out of the same boot as I would have made a very similar approach to that very problem. Then how you devised to make the brackets all the same instead of some rather crude thing that we Utah farmers would have tried, you did it right. My thinking on the radiator issue mentioned above, I don't have faith in the previous repair story you were told. Wear, wing nut an piles of solder, oh no. (Almost sounds like the Wizard of Oz)! If I were in your predicament, I think I would actually approach the core first, clean clean clean and then adequate flux, control the heat from doing collateral damage and fix the leak in the core. I would then approach the solder that needs removal and some additional love. As good a craftsman as you are, I know you could facilitate a redo and end up with a very much nicer job and get the darn leak stopped at the same time. I would then approach the worn side trim. I agree, I would form a new replacement piece, remove what is needed and clean clean clean then solder in the repair piece in place. Lastly, if the dents in the top tank skin had some deeper gashes, I might be nervous, but I think you could likely build some type of long reach tool that you could use from the inside to dolly out the dings. You may not get them out perfectly but I would bet that you could tidy those dings to where it appears much cleaner and would not damage the integrity of the brass skin. Now be sure of this Mike, the above are simply my "two cent" comments and would be my approach. You have the making of a very nice looking radiator, but one that has a few issues. The radiator, for my Locomobile, needs both sides replaced from top to bottom and I am not scared of that job. With care, I think your radiator could be made to look better and you would end up with something that does not leak as a bonus. Al

Your thinking, planning and execution are all great! Nice end results! Al

Hello Mike, Here you will see pictures of the two different Brass Valve Cage covers. The six flat covers are 1-3/4" across flats. The 8 flat covers are 2-1/2" across flats. I do not need a slugging or striking wrench, but something that fits nice to the hex or octagonal shape and that I can with some heat, soaking and gentle persuasion remove the caps without damage. Let me know what extra tool you may have.

Thanks for the postings! Al

Nice project! Keep us posted with a good variety of pictures or progress. Al

Does anyone here have a 6 point striking wrench that fits the brass valve cage on the early Locomobile, that you would sell? Al

Ron, The Big Boy is all testosterone but not built for high speed either. He was originally built to pull the Wasatch Grade. This part of the UP line is all up hill from Ogden Utah to Cheyenne Wyoming. The smaller sister engine, that is on display with 4014, I think is 844. 844 has been in service for a while as is a different engine being capable of much faster speeds than that of 4014. Whereas 4014 is a true work horse that could get up to a respectable 80 MPH, if I have my stats correct, 844 was capable of speeds pushing 120 MPH. Years ago, 844 came down the main line that runs through the middle of our agricultural area. It made a "whistle stop" for all to enjoy and take pictures then moved on down the track and in a big hurry. I followed along on the side roads and after 844 passed 3 crossings, (within 3 miles) I was having a hard time keeping up as my speedo was reading over 85 MPH. What a rush it must have been to "engineer" on one of these steam engines. I am sure that you get a very similar rush when you steam up your Locomobile! Later this week I will share a few pictures of the events and steam engines. Al

On a sister steam subject, I encourage everyone, who has not, take a look on You Tube for the "Golden Spike" celebration going on this week in northern Utah. Also, look up on You Tube "Big Boy". Big Boy is the largest steam engine ever built in the world and it is impressive. Saturday, we are going to have a family get together at Promontory Point for the reenactment of the Driving of the Golden Spike, to finish the first cross continental Rail line. Also, the newly restored Big Boy is making its first appearance at the Ogden Utah Central Rail Station to help with the Golden Spike Celebration. Any Steam Guy has got to be impressed with the driving of the Golden Spike and also of the restored and fully operational Big Boy. What a story! Share your thoughts. I don't think we would have the technology we enjoy now without the early development of steam which helped build our Nation. Al

Ron, Great, I am full of anticipation to see an early Locomobile steam car brought out of hibernation and put on the road. Al

Slightly off the speedster build subject but I thought I would remind everyone, that a very important thing took place in Utah history in just a couple of days plus 150 years. On that day 150 years ago, technology for the whole USA was improved with the driving of the last spike to complete the first transcontinental railroad from one coast to the other coast. Utah and everyone able is celebrating this week at Promontory point with a reenactment of the driving of the "Golden Spike" to finish the rail line. Also to be seen, is the restored and running of the newly restored to full operation condition, the largest steam engine built in the World called Big Boy, (#4014). This steam engine and another sister steam engine are making the trip from Cheyenne Wyo. to Ogden Utah and will be on display at the Ogden Central Rail Station for this 150 year celebration. Without the development of the rail system, I truly doubt that we would be enjoying the antique hobby as we are now. It has taken generations of technical development, communication improvement and commerce to set the stage for the auto industry that we revere today. If you have not, check out Golden Spike and Big Boy on You Tube. You can't help but stand up just a bit more proudly for the accomplishments of our forefathers. The Bog Boy steam engine is truly a speedster in another form that is very impressive! Al

Nice car......

Hello Ron, Have you had any success with You Tube? if so, when you get your Locomobile out of hibernation. How about posting a You Tube link to your first start and drive of this season here? It would help to get our juices flowing! Al

Nice start to a great project. Can you take a few more and better pictures to show inside, engine, front axle etc. Is this a car you plan to work on or resale? If you keep it as a project, it would be nice for you to start your own forum thread on this one. We would all like to follow along and your progress. Al

Nice pictures, did you run across anything Locomobile? Al

Have you lit the fire and been up to steam lately? Al

hmmmm.... I wish I had time and I would drive out to see what the midwest has to offer! Al

Hello Gary, As a matter of methodology in stretching or shrinking aluminum, I have a question. When using the stump, how hard do you pound the wide faced dolly hammer on the aluminum and into the "stump" ? Is it better to simply get after the project and use forceful blows or is it better to use more sophisticated, (well placed) and lighter repeat blows? Al

How big is the Lawrence Swap Meet? Al

I am going to need to get after one of the home-made stump bowls...........(as per the picture) Most of the trees we have out here in the west may be a bit different but should work. We have lots of Elm. If I can find a "dry" trunk to work with it may not split, which is a problem. Al

I can answer questions for both Rusty and billorn. I have the pieces of an early engine, including a crank that can be used for dimensions. In order to use all the pieces I have to make an engine, I need to have a crank built that has a longer stoke that the crank I have. Which source do you recommend SCAT or Callies? A billet crank would certainly be a bullet proof design. Al