alsfarms

Who has got a picture of a completed "drip loop" installed on a BB-1? Please post wo we can see one then understand how it stops a fuel drip after shutdown of a running engine. Al

Mike, You ask a fair question! I started this Locomobile project when I was a young man and a newly wed. I have had over 40 years of labor of love with my wife but also with the Locomobile. The "before" pictures I have are all taken way before the ease of digital pictures. I will dig around in my old negative film pictures and see what I can scrounge up to post a picture here of what I started with. Al

Joe, I am assuming that your frame spring bracket shown above uses a "typical" spring shackle? Could you post a picture of one of your original shackles for Spinneyhill? Al

Gary, You are cranking down on the finish line. You have sure run a race on this project, but what a car you will end up with! Keep up posted on how the mechanics turn out. Al

How have you plumbed in the drain port on the bottom of the intake horn? I understand that tubing loop is to keep the carb. from dripping gas down on the ground right after you shut of the car. Is that assumption correct? Al

Hello Stakeside, Have you scouted out your BB-1 to see what kit is proper for it, located on Carb. Kings website or elsewhere? I am not familiar with the number 544. It is stamped in and not cast into the top cover? I used to be very nonchalant about the brass tags on carbs. NOT ANY MORE! I am so happy that the tag has survived and is still on my 289SD. The character of my carb. is easy to research. Did you buy your carb. rebuilt and ready to run? I bought my carb. as complete, free movement and ready for me to kit it. I have the rebuild kit and am waiting for the sonic cleaner to arrive before I do anything. Sometime during the rebuild process, I need to make a repair to the end of the main jet needle stem. Al

And yet another view.

Here is another view of the same piece.

Here is a picture of the original squeeze handle, badly rust pitted. (for comparison to the above machined squeeze handle made from SS.

Hello Joe and Al, I have my eyes open to locate a Gasoline Automobile book you refer to. On top of this discussion, I have a deep feeling that even with a good degree of engineering, routine care and servicing are key to longevity. In our area some fellows are known to be very good with equipment, none of us would ever be concerned about buying used equipment from them! However, there is also a group of locals who are notorious for never having time to service equipment, (always in a hurry) and to run that same equipment hard and eventually into the ground. To say it lightly, you do not buy used equipment from the second group mentioned. Our modern cars and also our antiques either suffer or are blessed by the care they receive. Hows that for my 2 cents on the subject of longevity.. Al

Hello wmsue, Do you still have the brass tag on your BB-1? I am curious which one you used and what the original application could have been. I am assuming that your BB-1 is all cast iron? Al

Good comments..... I am not sure what type of longevity engineering went into the early automobile, they probably had not idea how long they were destined to last in the first place. I am sure that the engineers, early on, had not yet considered "planned obsolescence". The fun part we have to deal with is simply trying our best to deal with what we have in our hands, and make the piece maybe last into the next generation.....maybe! Al if you look close at the worn front spring shackle posted by Joe, above, you will notice that the wear is in fact on the top of the perch, The bottom appears nice and symmetrical suggesting the wear is at the top. Joe's fix will certainly be a solid repair. And you know what, the admission of some grease once in a while will make the perch and shackle bolts last a very long time! Al

Nice schematic drawing of the flow paths on the BB-1 Carbs. I have a friend who runs an early design BB-1 on a "T" head engine of about 280 CID. He is not a hot rodder and the carb. is adequate for his driving style. I could not get a similar carb. to perform properly on a "T" head engine of 300 CID. As a result, I hunted up the "Big Brother" of the BB-1 line which is a 289SD. This carb. should be better suited for an engine my size and will report back after I get the carb. kit installed and verify that all flow paths are clear and functioning. Has anyone else struggled or had success with the Carter BB-1 carburetor? Stakeside, what version of the BB-1 are you dealing with? Al

Interesting about the Chestnut trees. I also have a sideline interest in horticulture. Al

Hello Al, Your point is well taken. I suggest that the wrong hardness fasteners could be an issue, I also think that metallurgy was only slightly in need of modern help. For instance, old aluminum against modern aluminum, there is a terrific difference. It could be that steels and irons may not have had the quality control that we generally have grown to trust now days. Most of the older hardware4 I have removed from early cars have generally been inferior to what you would find at a modern hardware store. Some of the castings would not have had much engineering either. Maybe some of the castings were simply gray iron and others cast steel. You theory is a fact. Al

Nice machine work on that sticky old aluminum! Al

Hello Joe, Yup, wear in an area that should have been fed a little grease from time to time. I suppose that as our cars aged, they turned into near junk while still being driven. That would be evidenced by the wear you see and the damaged springs on my project. Do you have a total of 5 rivets to remove per spring perch? What wear are you seeing in the front frame horns? Al

Are Chestnut trees still in abundance in your area? I understand that the Chestnut trees in the eastern US were about all killed by some type of blight many years ago. Al

Hello Mike, How does Chestnut compare with hardness, to Hickory or Oak with regards to hardness? Al

Here is a picture of a before and after (I machined a new replacement out of SS) of the brake lock out piece. This piece is lifted when you squeeze the handle as show above, and allows for pressure put on the hand brake. Then to hold that position, let off on the handle. This was a fun piece to build. Al

Hello Rusty, Yes, that is the website I was looking for. I will see what collective knowledge they have and maybe save me some time on a hunt for an alternate rear end that will match my needs. Regards, Al

What is the reference for the Mid 30's Chrysler-Dodge-Plymouth and DeSoto forum? P-? I may pose the rear end question over there hoping someone has already been at the same place i am and will share some information. Al

Hello Al, Thanks for your referral to your Blacksmith buddy. He has dropped me a post or two and suggests that unless we re-temper the whole spring, probably not a good idea to just heat up the eye ends. The quandary continues. Al

That is one big piece of tree you are dealing with! Have you counted rings to see how old it is? Al

You are pretty darn handy and with good results. Al