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they look better than mine. Mine have actually fallen apart. Bought some 1/2" hardware cloth and plan to beat to conform to shape of body/wheel well and use fiberglass to make a form of the area. Part of the issue is how to attach as I don't want to make hoses in the metal but think I should be able to adhere to body. Out of curiosity I seem to see remnants of attachment on your tar/felt paper showing attachment. Could you tell me how the originals were attached to body. I thought it was just by the tar adhesive I found on the body. If the fiberglass molding works OK will attach or fabricate for arm rests. Still may use the panel board and local upholstery has as well as closed cell foam. In addition I have a guy helping with interior and he has my beat up panels and he is still trying to figure out a way to repair. Thanks for response and positing photos. Rod

Bob Sent PM as not sure what liner board is. suchan-they don't make the panel I need and I was going to tell them that I had ordered everything for my 36 they offered and they failed to send the panel but I was told they do not manufacture it and didn't in 2005. I had hoped I could talk them into providing/selling just the panel but since they don't make didn't matter. I also have been told that the company has changed hands recently-since 2005-and not as consumer friendly as they used to be. Thanks for response.

I contacted them and they do not make that panel and found my emails from August 2005 when I ordered the kit from them and found that I asked about that panel back then. Time certainly does fly. By the way I was initially told that the panel did come with kit but they would not sell it individually and panel kit cost was around $3500. If any ideas out there as to how to skin this cat would appreciate input. Thanks Rod

Trying to complete the interior of my backseat and on both sides there is a tar like cardboard under the armrest going to the floor next to the seat which is torn and out of shape. We do not believe it can be saved and will need to fabricate a replacement if not salvageable. The piece supports the arm rest as well as providing a place to tack the cloth next to the seat itself. I do not have photo as my upholstery guy has both sides trying to figure it out. Part of the problem in repair is finding anything that will adhere to the surface of the old material so as to reform it. Would like to know of any suggestions for repair of the present piece or source if reproduced, which I don't think it is, or suggestions on how we might fabricate a replacement. If my description doesn't describe in enough detail let me know and I will arrange to get piece and post photos-I know what I mean not just sure I have done a good job explaining. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Rod

Not close to you but guy will ship and will sell rims separately. Don't know if he would only sell one or two. I had contacted and he provided photos but never found out bolt pattern. At the time I thought i may have had 4 3/4 but determined my bolt pattern a 5--I have 36 special. If interested here is link: http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/4736381356.html<o:p></o:p>

Appreciate the response. Yes the tires are new and are wider than the old tires. I thought when purchasing I would simply not inflate fully and side mounts would fit altho now not sure that will work. I purchased 6.50 x 16 Firestone which shows to have a 5" tread width. I am now considering buying a smaller tire for one of the side mounts and using it as the spare and simply having the firestone spare without air in hopes it will fit. I don't have a need for both spares to be functional. Any suggestion on a tire to inflate, use as a spare that will fit in sidemount? Thanks Rod

Were all models of the the 1936 buicks fitted with 16" hubs? I have Special and I have been told it has bolt pattern of both 4 3/4 and 5 inches. Anybody know the answer? Trying to resolve the side mount issue as the 6.5 x 16 tires don't fit the side mounts and trying to figure out how to have a spare and tires in the side mount

Thanks for response. Had hobby store close by so bought some model paint and am going to try that. Think it might work--we'll see. Sign paint will be next if it doesn't work. Thanks

Getting ready to finish the side mounts and the badge which goes on the cover has "BUICK" on the middle-chrome piece--1936 Special. Need to paint the inside of the BUICK-it is recessed and would like suggestions on best paint to use. Should be pretty easy but not sure what type paint to use on the chrome. Suggestions? Thanks Rod

Call Dave Tacheny 763-427-3460.

I have 36 and have the heater pictured which is on ebay. Long discussion some time ago as I was convinced it was original. The sales literature shows the one Greg posted is correct and the one on ebay is for a 37. Have looked for several years and not seen the correct heater for a 36. Mine heater is restored and installed and I am no longer really looking. Good Luck as I think they are really hard to come by. Might try Dave Tachney as I'm not sure I ever contacted him about a heater. Rod

I am presently replacing the interior on my 36 special. Don't recall trim number but purchased the interior from Hampton Coach, The seats have not been done altho most of the interior has been replaced. The most difficult part for us has been the rear arm rests as the base is made out of thick black cardboard or some such substance and is badly deteriorated. We are presently in the process of determining how to rebuild. I have carpet for the interior as well as a rubber floor mat for the front which will go over the carpet. When I removed interior it had carpeting on both front and rear floors. Don't believe it had carpet in rear but as I recall the research. I did showed carpet and the set I bought from Hampton included carpet--for a price. They did not have exact match to the carpet offered in 1936. You can contact Hampton and provided them with the interior code number and they will send you little catalog for the car as well as samples of the materials. They are expensive but I was pleased with product. I have not installed door panels but they appear correct. You have metal on the original used to give strength to some of the interior and the set from Hampton does not include the metal strips. We installed some using the metal strips from the old interior and in some instances were unable or chose not to use the strips. Good luck Rod

Interesting--I've removed mine and bent them as the photos from my car when removed shows both bent. Mine also about one inch longer. It is has been pointed out that the two for the rear are threaded where pivot located all the way to collar whereas the fronts are not threaded that far. I hadn't noticed before but that is accurate as the fronts won't even fit, threaded part not long enough, to fit on rear doors. Are your checks installed? Would seem they would hit the door pillar cut out when door opened all the way.

Years ago when I took by 36 special apart I took off the door checks and straightened them. Didn't think all bent about the same so may be that is how they should be. Now I know and taking off to put the curve back in them. Discovered that one set is longer than the other two. Don't know if the longer are for the fronts or the rear doors. Kinda assume the longer are for front doors as the doors are larger but would like to know if anyone knows. Checked my parts book and the checks have different parts numbers but still don't know which is the longer set. If anyone knows can drop me a reply at cookr@oge.com. Appreciate any help. Thanks in advance. Rod

No problem on the brackets, appreciate your help. Installed both rear windows in the doors and when I crank them down they move a little side to side and get in a bind. Not sure what the issue is but have mechanic friend who should be over in the next few weeks and I'm sure I've just not tweaked it the right way. We'll see. Rod

not sure if I figure out. Decided to tackle the other rear door as to see if I can figure out what I've done wrong. Your description is exactly the way mine is set up and I have both of the stiff metal channels and the rubber with fuzzy insert which goes in the metal channel. If you don't want to use the rubber "U" shaped fuzzy you can just insert the flexible fuzzy in the metal channel. Interesting the way you cut the channel so window would roll down all the way. Think probably a little more clearance in the bigger car and don't think I could cut channel but that's OK. I'm going to work on it this weekend and think I will have problem solved. I'm thinking I may have mounted the glass backwards in the window channel where the winder fits in which would cause the whole think to not fit as it should but the curves of the window are not significantly different so I may not have noticed. Thanks for response--my guess just another stupid mistake by me and really slow in realizing what I had done. Rod

Sorry-not a two door but 4 door. Think I may have figured out how to get the windows attached to winder--I put in window channel(fuzzy) first as I cannot figure out how to put in later as the window when it rolls down is in channel and the winder is attached to the wood door insert which goes accross door and has not only winder but door mechanism which opens/locks the door. I assume this window only goes down about 1/2 way as the curve of the back door for back wheel is such that I don't think any way it goes down further. Thanks for the response. Rod

I've replaced front windows without a hitch but the rears are a mystery to me. The windows would not appear to roll down very far and the order of repair has me scratching my head. If I put in the wood with winder attached can't figure out how to get window in track for window. I'm sure, at least I hope, I am simply not seeing the easy way to put the window and wood with winder back in. Suggestions/HELP. Rod

Tom Looks great. Any possibility your machinist friend would like to make one for me? Would be willing to pay for the effort. Did you ever speak with Dave to see if he had one? I have tried to call him several times but he must be out of pocket--still out of town. Rod

Interesting. I just replaced my hood and could not figure out what was supposed to be in those two holes. I don't think my 36 had the bracket when I bought car. Would be curious what it looks like. I have a bracket that I can't identify but believe it is off 41 plymouth pickup. It appears that it would mount on center of radiator but has a wire strap at top which is to hold wiring harness. Tom -- When you hear from Dave please ask him if he has another and I will give him a call and purchase the bracket. Let me know if you don't mind. If you would prefer I contact Dave directly just let me know and I will be happy to. Hope this problem/mystery has solution. Rod

Making progress getting car back together but I find I didn't take enough photos when taking apart and my memory from 10 years ago not that good. Found the old window sweepers, two which are about 26" in length and 1/2 inch wide with 1/4 inch fuzzy. There are six clips which are about 1/8" in diameter and look as if they should be pushed into a hole to stabilize. I had the wood on my doors totally refabricated and I believe these are only for front doors as they curve slightly at one end and match the curve of the front door windows altho each door has side vent which doesn't really make sense. I understand these are just to eliminate rattle of the window and should be on interior side of door. Fighting with the vent windows and alignment of the interior support trying to get aligned properly but when completed will need to install the sweepers. Not purchased the sweepers and don't find any for a 36 but lots of beltline/sweeper material which would appear to work. Any help suggestions photos or just some sympathy would be appreciated. Really enjoying working on the old babe and only wish that I wouldn't have nicked so much of the paint installing different body parts, especially the hood, but have decided this is not the 100 point restoration but certainly one I will enjoy driving. Thanks in advance. Rod

Tom sent me photos which I will attach. There are additional photos altho they are repetitive of these two. If you want additional photos contact my at cookr@oge.com and I will forward. I could not take photos as my hood now installed. Tom also provided dimensions: . trapezoid dim: 1 1/4"wide@base, 1"wide@top, 1 3/16" tall and is .140" thick.. hole location is 1/2" up on base centerline, 5/15" bolt.. head is shaped to fit inside the hinge.. approx. 5/8"w and 3/4"long

Thanks for response. I kind of thought that was the configuration but not sure. Rod

Getting ready to put hood back on my 36 special and don't remember where the trapazoid looking washer goes. It is 4 sides wider at one side and narrower on the opposite. Believe it goes on top of channel for good but may be washer going under dash wher the bolt goes thru. Thanks for any help on this one. Rod

Thanks--I ruined a water temp gauge by not getting the needle in the little slot and bending it to point I tried to bend back and ended up breaking it off. Interesting about fuel sending unit. Actually added ground to the unit I purchased from Bob's and I installed and ran separate wire from unit to frame. It works Ok--just trying to figure out what was original. Think I'm going to send my unit to John Wolf and have repaired and will install at some point in the future but will leave as is for the time being. Rod