rlcokc

Finally got my wood for all doors and rear portion of body. Pretty expensive altho guy did a good job. We pulled the old wood out and in good enough condition to use as pattern. Kept all old wood just to show with car. Did not have wood from door pillars forward fabricated as in good condition. Mine is four door model 41(special). Would assume this guy would do others if interested. Charge was $500 for each of 4 doors and additional approx $500 for rear windows and and wheel wells. This was a local woodworker hear is Oklahoma city. Anyone interested can reach me at cookr-ne@oge.com. Rod

Finally got my wood for all doors and rear portion of body. Pretty expensive altho guy did a good job. We pulled the old wood out and in good enough condition to use as pattern. Kept all old wood just to show with car. Did not have wood from door pillars forward fabricated as in good condition. Mine is four door model 41(special). Would assume this guy would do others if interested. Charge was $500 for each of 4 doors and additional approx $500 for rear windows and and wheel wells. This was a local woodworker hear is Oklahoma city. Anyone interested can reach me at cookr-ne@oge.com. Rod

Sorry Been out of town and unable to check board. $40 for visors and hardware sounds OK to me. Please advise of mailing address and I will send payment. Will also advise of this message by contacting you directly. Thanks Rod

Have 36 Buick model 41 and need the sun visor brackets. Reproduction or old and needing plating ok. Thanks Rod

Great--Let me know how or do you want me to e-mail you direct? Thanks Rod

Just had generator and starter rebuilt.(1936 model 41) Unfortunately starter solenoid on original starter bad and the one I purchased on ebay as spare also bad. Anyone have source for one or know of rebuilder? Any help, as always would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Rod

It's done. Gave my mechanic a check for 3 grand so parts could be ordered and get show on the road. Keeping it original is imperative. Will also redo clutch and pressure plate. Final estimate is between 4-4500 so that's a little good news. Saw the old mains when I went to shop and they looked pretty worn. Rods not in bad shape altho babbitt bearings pretty worn. Told that the babbitt certainly doesn't last like todays bearings but I doubt I'll ever put 10,000 miles on car. All the sheet metal back and frame from blaster and it looks great. Will variprime this weekend so no rust and body and paint guy says he will have a spot in June. All it takes to finish this restoration is money. I've taken wood out of interior and have woodworker replicating. Anyone know of kits available? thanks for all the replies. Rod

spoke with my guy today and Egge is who he contacted for parts and babbitt bearings. The killer is the babbitt bearings are going to cost 1600 and the mains have to be line bored(250)after we get back. The rods also need to be babbitt poured but are ready to use upon receipt. Five mains along with rods. Meeting with rebuilder on Monday to review itemized list. Can tell you rings(100) and new pistons(270), neither of which seemed too much out of line. Will have new valves, seats, springs, sprockets, timing chain, and oil pump rebuild kit. Will turn crank and I assume grind head. Parts including babbitt pour is going to run about 2600 and total is supposed to be 4500. We will turn cam and have new cam bearings. We'll also turn lifters as opposed to buying-saves a little and he says as good as buying replacements. My 41 Plymouth cost less than 1500 for whole job. Checked with Kanter and their prices competitive with Egge but a little higher. Terrell machine is cheaper but doesn't have much for 36. That's where I got most parts for the plymouth. One other hitch--Egge makes pistons and a retailer of rings in Washington state thinks NOS rings may not fit Egge pistons. Looks like I'll be spending the money and have a new engine. I'm open to any ideas altho it doesn't appear I can save enough to make a great deal of difference. I would recommend Terrel's if they have what your looking for. They have an ad in Hemmings. I also understand that Egge has good products and actually other than babbitt bearings they seemed pretty reasonable. Thanks for response. Rod

Had engine pulled and find that rebuild is a bit more challenging and expensive than on previous restoration. Need poured babbitt bearings--any suggestions for one that is good and doesn't want me to second mortgage? Also need help in finding rings, pistons and other components. Help? Told by my mechanic cost will be in $4000-6000 range. That would be total rebuild. Does that sound reasonable? He does good work and expect it to be better than new buttttt. Will have work done but would like to save what I can without shaving on quality. Heard that before? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Rod

Do you have photos which you could e-mail. I might be interested in all but tailight and headlight. You can e-mail me direct at rlcokc@aol.com. Thanks Rod

I've located a 1936 Buick model 41 which I may purchase as a parts car. Guy wants too much altho if I could tear down and sell portions I may not take such a hit. Don't know much about car altho believe the sheet metal to be pretty straight and not much rust. I don't need alot off vehicle and would sell most, if not all sheet metal, frame, engine, tranny and power train. Trying to determine if I would eat cost and transportation expense. Never purchased and parted out car so I assume I'll lose money but maybe I can get the parts I need. If anyone interested in parts for this model let me know. Wouldn't expect to pull anything until summer. I'm not and don't want to be in salvage business but just purchased a trunk hinge from dealer in NY and had to pay 75 bucks-another guy quoted 100 but wouldn't e-mail a photo. 125 for glove box door with lock. I really just wanted lock. Of course if it was only about money I'd buy a restored car. Let me know if interested. Thanks Rod

I called Joe at Moyer's earlier this week about my 36 buick. Has a one inch hole at bottom corner but remainder of tank appears to be solid. I wanted it original without cutting tank up to repair. When they sandblast it is my understanding a hole of some size is made to blast. I advised that there is alot of corrugation on tank and do not want to lose. Also they brush on a rubber type coating on outside of tank which cannot be painted. Joe told me to note on order form to advise I wanted to talk to them before work begun. I do not have sending unit out and expect I will not ship for at least 2-3 weeks. Would appreciate your adivisng of your experience with them including cost and turnaround time. Could e-mail at cookr-ne@oge.com. Thanks and good luck. Rod

Thanks for all the help. I was just a little too timid in attacking the drum. Took a big screwdriver and pried the drum off a little at a time. Took about 15-20 minutes slowly moving around the drum. Came off without too much pressure and didn't damage the backing plate. Didn't use hammer except to help screwdriver wedge between drum and backing plate. Thanks again and I'm sure I'll be asking for additonal help. Rod

Guys appreciate the advice. These are rear brakes and emergency is off. Had 41 ply and nearly ruined backing plates with same problem.(they appear to thinner and easier to damage) The drums turn without a great deal of effort(not turn freely). I've been hestitant to use any force without input from others. Vehicle did not run when purchased altho it rolled without problem. I'll get out my hammer and lubricant and slowly tackle this problem. I will post photo this weekend and will let everyone know how I progress.

Charles No nut on end of axle and the drum is closed--no hole in center. Appears to me the no key in between drum and axle but don't know. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Rod

Help!! Can't get rear drums off. Is there a key which inserts in drum and axle to keep drum from slipping or is there another secret to getting drum off? any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Rod

Received my 36 buick today. Needs lots of word and I need lots of help. Best forum for information on restoration and parts? Have VIN #, style 36-4419; body#73493. Only thing I know missing at this time is radio and hood ornament. Any help appreciated. Would also like to purchase necessary literature. What should I buy and source? Thanks again. Rod