rlcokc

Great. Really appreciate the response and photo. Rod

Thanks Greg. The two wires coming out of the generator--I assume one is hot, positive, and the other ground-is that accurate? Can you identify which is ground? I'll also double check in manual but know at one time I looked and saw alot about charging but don't remember answers to my questions--thanks again Rod

Below is picture of 936C delco generator--for 1936 buick special. Cut out on top of generator. What I can't figure out is which wires hot, ground etc. Believe the condenser looking silver tube connected to right of generator is to suppress noise for radio. My knowledge of elcetrical system lacking and if someone could identify each of the wires to cut out as well as the two coming from the generator I would certainly appreciate it. Believe the two connections not being used below on cut out one goes to ammeter gauge, i think is hot, and other I believe goes to starter. Any help would certainly be welcome. Thanks Rod

I talked with David just now and advised that the only fabric not in stock when ordered was trunk liner which we agreed should not hold up production. He is to have Carla, a manager, to check tomorrow and give me call. I had asked that headliner be expedited and David stated he didn't know why not completed. He also said that altho not right seems as if he who yells loudest, calls the most, seems to get moved up in production line. I advised that I could call every day if that would do any good. He blames it on slow production which i found interesting. I at least can understand delay if they don't have fabric but the inability to explain when apparently the fabric on premises is baffling. David and I have had issues and perhaps that is contributing to the delay. Hope you have better luck in working with them. I too will let you know what their response is. Rod

Gary Have you had any contact with LeBaron Bonney lately? I was told over two weeks ago my headliner would be shipped and they were to give me update on remainder of the interior kit. I was going to call today but was curious about your delay which is much longer than mine. Any word about any financial issues? My last contact with sales rep said he would check with shop and let me know status for both headliner and interior. I have not been told any issues with fabric supply or any reason for delay. My order is for my 36 special and the fabric ordered is not the same as yours. Hopefully no real issues but don't have understanding of what delay could be and certainly not good business model. Rod

Installing my front fenders and having some fitting tissues. Have put 1/4" felt on the bottom of the engine vents on each side of fender and not sure where the shims for bracket shroud go. I have 4 fiber and one metal plate. I placed four fiber above the frame and the metal one I put under the frame. Fender didn't seem to fit correctly so I removed one on top of frame, below the radiator support. Left one off. The front fender did not mate with bottom nut at front on radiator shroud. Before I attempt to install again thought I would ask for any suggestions. Know can adjust the angle of radiator shroud with support rods from firewall to radiator shroud but doesn't seem to correct issue. Anyone know or recall how, where placed the shims under the radiator . Any help suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Rod

I do not have photo of firewall without the engine but mine had speaker mounted in middle under dash but also had the mounting hardware center of roof under headliner. I assume that was installed whether or not radio installed and giving option of either radio. When I restored I did removed the mounting under headliner as I installed the speaker back under dash where it was originally installed. I also do not have photo of the interior where the mounting brackets were installed. It simply consisted of brackets on fiberboard attached to roof with hole in middle to place the speaker. Hope this helps. Rod

Don't recall the cost of the data tag but as I recall over $100. the radio you have is not original nor is the heater. I have both heaters offered in 1936 as well as both radios. All are very hard to find and don't come up on ebay very often. The sales brochure for the 1936 models can be found online and shows pictures of both radios as well as both heaters.

reproduction data tag is available. I purchased one years ago and it was very well made. the first 36 model 40 I purchased also had later series heater with hole in approximately same position as yours. My heater was from a 1937 Buick. http://www.datatags.com/ Rod

Gary Attempting to install my windshield on my 1936 special. Looked back at your entries and find at page 26 you installed the two piece glass but can't find any entry showing installation of the center divider/molding for the windshield. I have my rubber molding on the two piece windshield and placed the molding in the middle and was going to install as one piece. I note you installed the glass with rubber seal first and apparently installed the molding at a later time. Interested in how you installed the center divider/molding and if any secrets to getting it in place. I have made one attempt to install windshield and without molding think it would be easier to get it in but was worried about getting that center divider in. Do you have recollection of how you got the molding piece in? Thanks Rod

interesting. I ordered interior for my 1936 yesterday and was told I would have it by middle of May. Supposed to expedite the headliner. Hope I don't have the delays you guys are discussing Have really enjoyed the detail of this thread and attention to detail. Great historical record of restoration. thanks for your efforts Gary. Rod

Appreciate the responses and Tom the most help may be the old gauge cluster you have. Joe didn't think your post would help until I went back and looked at the instructions where they said left and right and assume that is their instruction on Pass or Driver side and using the suggestions from your experience I assume that would mean PS-passenger would be top. My whole purpose is to get this right and not have to crawl under the dash more than necessary as my age and physique does not lend itself to the gyrations necessary to mess with the dash. Actually I believe all of the responses were helpful and accurate. After reviewing the wiring diagram it appears that the 3 wires would/should go on the top post. In an effort to solicit the wisdom of those much more schooled in the electrics of the car I have tried to determine exactly which wires go on the posts as I believe I didn't correctly wire my other 36 Buick which started this issue as I did have three wires on the top post but changed them yesterday because I when the car ran the ammeter read backwards i.e. it showed discharge when running as opposed to the car charging. Now I believe I may have had wire from generator on a post by itself and the wire from the starter with the other two. After reviewing the wiring diagrams as well as instructions with the harness I have determined how I think the wiring should be. The single wire in my case would come from the starter solenoid where it is connected to the same terminal as the positive battery cable. This would connect to the bottom post of the ammeter.The three wires consist of the cigar lighter, ignition switch. light switch and the radio in my vehicle(with suppressor) and come from the the generator cutout relay "battery" and connect to the top post. On the wiring diagram there are (+) and (-) signs-for instance: "From generator relay "Bat" to ammeter right(+)". For the ammeter left (-) the wire comes from a splice in starter solenoid "Batt" to horn relay. This is obviously a positive battery connection so not sure of the signs meaning unless the left (-) is supposed to be telling me it is the lower of the two posts on the ammeter. Sorry to be so dense but the wiring not my strong suit and still trying to figure out if I have a strong suit. By the way the field lead on my generator not connected to anything, normally attached to generator case, I assume all i need to do is ground it, is that correct? Really appreciate the help. Rod

Am presently installing my wiring harness which came with car. Rhode Island made it in 1983-stored in box and still in good condition. In installing I am stumped as to which post on ammeter is positive and which is ground. Instructions with harness as well as wiring diagrams show the right is positive but the gauge does not have right or left as when installed one post in vertically above the other. The question is one on top or bottom negative/ground. The positive has three wires which connect to it whereas the negative has one. Anyone know which is which--I assume I am missing something and should be way to tell. Thanks Rod

Tom thanks for explanation. Think I will give it a shot. Appreciate the help. Rod

Tom Felt isn't going to work. I may get some leather and punch for replacement but now interested in the part you got from Chevs of the 40s. I looked at site and found the item your referring to. Appreciate the heads up. As I recall you have a coupe and not sure what you are referring to when you say you have 3 rollers, only two windows? Are you referring to the leather washers? Sorry I'm so dense but not sure how to replace. I assume would just remove the arm and button end and replace with the part you are referring to with rivet and mig the end where the button like end was before. I assume one roller and rivet from Chev 40s for each of my 4 windows. Thanks for your help. Rod

Tom Thanks for response. That's the animal I'm referring to. Interesting cause the one that came off yesterday sure felt like felt. I'll look at it again when I go back to shop. Used the felt and hole punch and think the fix is OK. Slides on track without difficulty only real issue is how long it will last. I'll look at chevs of 40s and see what you used.

Getting ready to install my window winders and some of the felt on the arm is missing. Vehicle is 1936 Buick Special. The winder has a knob at end of the arm which attaches to the window track and not sure how to repair. Thought about using furniture leg pad and slipping over the knob at end of winder. Can take photos and post if helpful. Any suggestions or experience would be welcome. Thanks in advance. Rod

Link to ebay auction. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-Buick-Super-Convertible-Two-Door-/253058407340?hash=item3aeb74dbac:g:sBsAAOSw32lY0uJx&vxp=mtr I have two 1936 specials and a 67 GS 400 and know very little about this vintage Buick. Looks good but I have no idea about value. Know its hard to tell from photos but would be interested in input from those who are more familiar with the market as well as in any apparent problems with the vehicle. Attached photo shows the vehicle. Thanks Rod

Curious what Paul's charged for the hubcaps. I recently sent mine for the 1936 Special to Canada and as I recall Paul's quote was $275-300 per hubcap. Is that the range the charged you? They look great and of interest to me is how you intend to paint the indent "buick" on the cap. Given that any thought? Glad to see your most recent post as I was going thru withdrawl--I find this most interesting and many parallels with my 36. Rod

I'll let Greg get the measurements but did drop my older 36 Special and found the loops but on the other 36 no sign of loops. I think it is an early production/late production modification. If Greg can't provide the measurements I'll be happy to measure mine. Rod

Appreciate the warning but toooo late. I have several gauge clusters of have broken the needle off of one gas gauge and bent severely a couple of others. Not so much because I didn't know but becuse I'm clumsy and inpatient. thank goodness I buy in bulk and have a couple of gauges I believe to be good. Those needles are really thin and easy to break and bend. Putting in and taking out of gauge cluster one must be really careful. Handling as well. I purchased new tank from Tanks, Inc advertised for chevy pickup. Haven't fitted yet but fellow board member said fits like a glove and appears it should. It is not quite as deep,front to back, but with straps tightened don't believe it should be issue. I'm going stock and need to figure out filler neck but shouldn't be too big an issue.Appreciate the response and help. Only time will tell how much adjustment will be necessary and of course with me handling the gauge how much I have bent the needle before installation. Rod

Going to replace my fuel sending unit and just want to make sure I get correct one. My understanding is the GM gauge for 1936, actually up until 1964, use 0-30 ohms resistance--is that accurate? 0 for empty and 30 for full? I should have searched before posing as I found several posts addressing my question and confirming. 'Rod

I sent photos to Paul's and not to my surprise their quote for replating my 1936 hubcaps was really high. I will use them to replate the grill when I receive it but found a place in Indiana which had photos of caps they had done which looked good. Their quote was $150-250 per hubcap depending upon condition and finish I would want and think I will shoot them one hubcap and see how it turns out. My question--has anyone had experience with: J&P Custom Plating, Inc 807 Meridian St. Portland, IN. 47371 My experience with having items replated by someone not done businesws with not the best but willing to give them a try unless bad experiences Anyone used or know of them?. Thanks Rod

thanks so much for photos. I gave it a shot last evening and the air flow simply came out the sides and did not put enough pressure on the skin so it would pop off. I'll try again and increased the pressure to 140 but still didn't come off. I was lucky enough to not puncture the skin when I drilled the hole. From the photos it doesn't appear to me that your hubcaps are rolled over the edge as far as mine and that might explain why I couldn't blow them off. I'm going to try again. On my skin I slowly put a plastic molding tool under edge of skin and pried it out little by little and was able to get the skin off. Didn't do much damage and if unsuccessful with the air method I believe I can get the skins off. I'm going to send photo of removed skin to Paul's and get rough estimate of cost of replating. Thanks again for the idea and explanation/photos. Rod

Bob Would like a few photos if you don't mind. email address is rlcokc@aol.com if you prefer to send directly to me. Thanks for your advice and offer to help. I never would have thought of blowing them off. Great idea. Rod