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Anyone used Lizard Skin ceramic insulation in restoration. I like the idea of the spray on and not using dynamat or equivalent. Easy to apply? Would not be seen for most part and would seem to replicate to some extent the asphalt impregnated material originally used. Thoughts, experience or suggestions? Thanks

What color is the gas tank on 36 special-assume all the same? Were they painted or galvanized? How have you guys finished the tanks when restoring? Thanks Rod

FYI--had my mechanic exchange my wire cutter with articulating jaw for new tool. The one broken was no longer made and the snap on rep offered a couple of different tools as replacement. I'v not picked up the new tool but was impressed that I was offered new tool. The broken one was purchased on ebay and had rivet going thru head which broke. Didn't get much use out of it and seller probably knew it was weak. Bad purchase on ebay turned out OK. Might make a difference if you have mechanic or friend who does enough business with Snap On that you can deal with the guy on the truck. Rod

I recently gave a broken set of cutters to my mechanic to exchange and he says they don't do what they used to--replace the tool but will offer a new one for a discount. My cutters are very old and not made at present time. Not sure if that is difference but I had always heard guaranteed for life but not sure that is still true. I have not heard back about my tool but he said most likely they will not replace.

Received the replating both from local and Red's Attic in Texas. Had both do an exterior door handle and the local when thru had a few pits showing--I complained and he redid--unfortunately all detail was lost. Red's did a bit better job-more expensive-but detail of lines on handle lost. I have now contacted Pauls Chrome and a company in Canada. Those pieces with detail will be sent to one of the two. I have used Pauls in past ant the company in Canada comes highly recommended. Cost will be approximately 50% higher but certainly worth it. I am having to acquire additional exterior handles as the ones which I had replated I will not use. Should have gone with the better companies but was hopeful someone closer could do the job. Am having local plater do some pieces which have no detail and they seem to do that without problem.

no photos. Dave does use internet and not sure he has digital camera. I have never asked for photos of any of the parts I have purchased from him and don't know that he would/could provide. Would assume that somehow he would provide photos of auto if you were interested in purchasing-would just have to contact and ask. Rod

Just got off phone with Dave and he advised he just purchased a 1936 special with 40,000 original miles. Doesn't have at home yet but should in the near future. He was really impressed with condition--straight, no rust and wood is in perfect condition. hood ornament and grill in really good condition. Asked him if he minded if I posted on website that he had and he just laughed and said OK. Also mentioned that he was referred to on many occasions as source for parts and he again just chuckled. . Am not posting price-was asked not to but he is certainly not asking for a fortune. I always think of Dave as parts source but he has several, probably many vehicles for sale. Said he has a two door coupe-1939 in great condition and only second one he has ever seen. I always enjoy speaking with Dave and he always has a story to tell. Perhaps everyone was aware that he has unrestored cars for sale and if one is looking for an old Buick he certainly would be a great resource--not just parts. Rod

I recently spoke with Dave and he was going on road trip--not sure if back yet. I have never had answering machine pick up my call but have spoken with Dave's wife a few times and she has him return call. As far as the trim on running board Max Merritt made stainles trim for my model 41--he has it in 1/2", 3/4 and 1" and you order the length desired. He has square, rounded and pointed tips. I've recently checked his web site and the price is $12.50 per foot and I have not found anyone else on internet that sells by the foot. Hope this helps. Rod

As far as cost the exterior handles are $100 both from Red's and local plater. The cost for those items in picture was just under $4000. The larger pieces are pot metal and the smaller are mostly steel. I really don't expect the quotes from others to be much less and If I received a quote for 50% I would most likely be skeptical and afraid to use. Might have them do a piece so I could inspect quality but pricing seems to be fairly consistent. I have spoken to Joe several times by phone and exchanged emails and he seems to easy to work with--may be just a good salesman. He priced all pieces in photo as if pot metal and I have tested with magnet and will email today to see how much price effected by many being steel. The internet great tool and gives us all access to vendors far and wide but I would prefer to use my local guy for many reasons but most importantly I would rather deal face to face and be able to discuss any problems with project in person. By the time I have everything replated I would expect to have over 5 grand in cost. It is not my intent to have show car and certainly expect to have more money invested than what I can recoup but it gives me something to work on and something I enjoy. I am currently putting the upholstery kit in my other 36 Buick, doing the seat covers, and never done before and learning as I go. Won't be perfect but kinda fun. I'll let you guys know what happens on the plating. This would seem to be a process where vendor very well could make a difference because alot of the detail in the piece is driven by labor as opposed to process. I've given the local and Red's a parking light bezel which are pitted and would appear to me to be somewhat of a challenge to replate. Red's charging 250 and believe local said 125-we'll see how they turn out as well as what the ultimate charge will be. Thanks for responses. Rod

Am getting ready to have some chrome pieces replated, both pot metal and steel. Have sent a couple of pieces to Joe at Red's Parts and Chrome plating. Have also requested quote from Paul's as well as having local shop do a couple to see results. I don't know that Red's is much cheaper than the norm but saw some work on a bumper that looks pretty good. He says on pot metal he removes chrome by sticking in solution for short period of time and then hand grinds the remainder. Would like to know if anyone familiar with what I describe as generally the consensus appears to be that with pot metal if you remove chrome by any method other than by hand grinding you will destroy the pot metal. Anyone familiar with Red's or the process? The best way to determine pot metal or steel is just the magnet test--is that correct? Magnet will not be attracted to pot metal but of course steel will? He does tell me the cost of replating pot metal greater because of the extra time needed to prepare. Always interested in saving some money but don't want to sacrifice much detail loss in process. Have attached photo of some of the pieces to be replated. Any thoughts appreciated.

They had the piece. Was pretty proud of it but not unexpected. Was able to buy the lever and chrome cover. They were really pleasant to deal with. Thanks again for the heads up. I should of asked but didn't but would assume they have other parts for the 36 special if anyone is need of anything.

Thanks for the lead. Called and they are to check and see and get back to me.

Checked with Dave Tachney and he doesn't have one--anyone have a seat adjustment lever--the one sticking up on side of driver's seat that pulls lever on spring allowing the seat position to be changed? Thanks Rod

Thanks for responses--I thought latches because of movement of the part with hook on end but the hooks don't make any sense-the two at bottom of photo.Always interesting to try and figure out even if never really determine what it is.

These came with the parts for my 36 model 40 and I have no clue what they are. Don't have the robe rail on back seat but these would not appear to be a substitute. Have the assist straps which goes on interior in front of back seat so just don't know how these would be used. The bottom section is threaded so it is adjustable. Anyone know what these are?

Bob Received the escutcheons and really appreciate it your digging those out for me. The one I needed the most was for the small vent winder and believe I can use the one you provided. Again appreciate the help. Rod.

Sorry--should have posted--I contacted Dave and he had one and provided it. Appreciate your checking.

That looks exactly like the one for the trunk. The one for the door is round and actually seems to pivot on rod/wire which connects the two ends. The body fisher body manual for 1935-46 , page 19, show photo altho quality not great. Link to page: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/fisher/3536fbsm/3536fbsm19.html Perhaps these are harder to locate than I anticipated. Decided to call Dave and asked if he is going to Chickas and he is not. I'm most likely going to Chickasha on the 17th and perhaps can pick one up there. Hope to see some of you there. Dave is going to look and believe he has one so I'll know before the swap meet. I was shocked he thought he had and he wasn't certain but it is amazing what a continuing resource he is. We are lucky to have him. He's also kind of a hoot to talk to-great stories and politics much like mine. Thanks for any help and appreciate the photo and post Don.

Sorry that would be helpful. 1936 model 40-special. Think that all used the same handle but not sure about other years.

not sure pawl is accurate but need the gizmo that goes thru the end of the exterior door handle and when the lock is turned it locks the door. It is about 1/2-3/4" long and maybe 1/4 inch in diameter. It is round with a space in the middle where the door lock shaft when locked causes the cylinder/pawl to move and lock the door. I must have misplaced or perhaps didn't have when I got the car. I've searched the internet and can't find one. If anyone has a spare or knows of source I would appreciate it. Not contacted Dave Tacheny but if unable to come up with one I will when I find other items I may need. Any help would once again be appreciated. This board is a great source of information and don't know what I would do without the help, Hope my description makes sense. Rod

Bob Mailing address is: Rod Cook 12122 N. Eastern Oklahoma City, OK 73131 Really appreciate it and would be happy to pay for the escutcheons and postage. Just stick a note in with the parts and let me know. Thanks once again for your help and making the effort to help me out. Rod

Guys-thanks for response. Bob I sent you a pm relative to what I need. Tom--reread the Fisher manual and figured out the installation of the handles. As you suggest the clip goes on and then handle tapping with rubber hammer and the clip expands and goes over the winder mechanism. I installed a couple before installing the clips first and got them on but not sure I would ever be able to get them off as I think I created a bind with the clip. Hopefully won't need to remove in my lifetime. Appreciate the responses. Thanks again Rod

Anyone have or know of source for escutcheon for window winder, both main window and vent, and/or for door handle? Haven't got ahold of Dave Tachney yet. Thanks Rod

I am presently installing the window winders and door handles on the interior of my 36 and really fighting the retainers. Have original as well as repos and have installed a few of the handles but not sure how the bite is behind the handle and escutcheon. I have the tool but I believe it is for later models as the rounded part of the retainer doesn't fit within the opening in the tool. Know the service manual shows a tool to use but I don't have it and don't know where to find. Any secrets on how to install? I've just used screwdriver and forced it in.Thanks for any help. Rod

an update which thought may be of interest. I bought some super magnets, have a hot glue gun and bought some velcro. Put in the upholstered piece over the rear fenders and had nails hidden under the upholstery but couldn't get good bite. In frustration used a brad gun and used 2 inch brads to get a bite to hold in place and pulled the material over the brad as suggested by trimacar. Also checked out instructions from Hampton and that is what they suggested. Much to my surprise the material was easy to pull over the brad and couldn't even see where they were. I will use shorter brads for the panels but this is what I will use. Should be able to pull off the panels without damage, if necessary, without destroying them. I believe trimacar is correct and sometimes the newer methods aren't better, maybe not as good, as the tried and proved methods used forever. If I have problems with panels I'll post but have tried on a couple of other places with other parts of upholstery and its worked without problem. Used a dentist pick to pull the cloth over the brad and didn't tear the cloth and can't tell.