v12lincoln

Thanks guys for the information. The covina brake link is broken for contact information. I found a few places that do manufacture asbestos linings and ceramic metallic, wrote them all, now to wait and see if they can make them or have them in stock.

Im in Calif and the only brake linings I can get are some crappy organic stuff that wont stop the car. Anyone know of a place I can get a ceramic matallic brake lining or at least a good asbestos material? If not I am changing it over to disc brakes. I found a kit that lets you use the original wheels so thats my only other option.

If you can get it to turn over, pull all the plugs and let them lay where they can get grounded with the wires attached, then have someone crank the engine while you watch and see if all the plugs are firing, I know it sounds simple but I have had the wires come loose inside the caps and it would act like it wanted to run but didnt have enough cylinders firing. While the plugs are out put some WD or Kroil, some light oil in the cylinders to lube the rings so it will have a little less friction when turning. One of the members of LZOC that rebuilds starters will put 2 extra field coils in there for you if you ask, this will make it spin like 12 volts is hooked up to it. Ive done it to one of my Packards, So far Ive had no problem with my starter except solinoids.

Phil Knapp just finished fixing a cracked block also, see what he has to say. Ive had my block pinned twice and welded on top of the pinning job. nothing has been permanent yet. The minor cracks I had in the exhaust seat were taken care of when I had hardened seats installed.

I just found a place that sells a kit for fixing blocks that are cracked with a special screw, its like pinning but the screws have a curved thread on them that interlocks. Its being used on a lot of diesel engines with no failures. I will post the web site when my wife gets home, she has it on her phone. Wish I would have known about it last year when my block cracked. Here is the web site for the crack repair. http://locknstitch.com/AboutCSeries.htm

Ive only used ATF and acetone on one engine and that was a 48 Packard 288 and after soaking it for 3 days it broke free with the starter and turned over easy. The smoke when it started was like San Fran fog and took 3 days of running to burn off. This was when I was a lowly Lance Corporal in the USMC and had no money. After the smoke cleared that engine ran strong for 9 more years as a daily driver only using a quart of oil every 1800 miles.

I have found that Kroil works the best for unsticking rusted or set rings. I pour about 1/2oz in each cylinder through the plug hole, take the intake off and spray it on the valves it will soak in real quick. Let it sit for 3 days then get your socket and a large breaker bar and try to turn it back and forth slowly, as the valves open squirt some more Kroil in the valves until you have them all oiled then let it sit for a few hours and it should turn over.

After I rebuilt my 48 V12 it was running 18"HG at idle with the factory intake and carb, after 500 miles it was still at 18"HG. After I switched it to the Edelbrock 2x2 with factory carbs the vacuum went up to 20"HG. I talked to a few people that have been doing this for a long time and right around 18"HG is normal. The only reason I can think of for higher vacuum with multiple carbs would be that the engine doesnt have to pull from so far away. Would be interested to see what reading someone with a 3x2 setup is getting, if its like my 440 six pack challenger it should read what a stock engine reads.

when you jump the battery with 12Volt make sure the 12 volt battery is out of what ever car your going to jump it with, just sit the 12 volt on the ground and then connect it. Ive seen them blow up if tried from car to car, not a pretty sight.

I have done the change with a new motor from vintage ford, fairly easy swap, only thing I dont like is the is no automatic park when you shut them off. the speed control is hooked up to a variable resistor which is connected to the original switch so it all looks factory. If you want to save some time and a lot of work disconnect the vacum inlet hose on the original wiper motor and put 2-3 drops of gear oil in it then move the wipers back and forth about 10 times, this will make the felts swell up and make a very good seal, hook the vacuum line back up and start the engine and turn the wipers on annd you will be surprised how well they work. GrandFather told me the trick after I changed mine out so I did it to the old motor and hooked it up and it works as good if not better than new. What do you have to lose except for 10 minutes of your time and a few drops of gear oil. Anything lighter wont make a good seal or last very long.

Check the conections at the resistor under the dash, if they are good replace your condensors, for some reason they go out very quick. Once you get spark and have it running check your dwell, I have 3 dist. set up on a sun mahine that were perfect but once bolted on the dwell chaged by 22 degrees, it would run but not as good as one set perfect. took me 4 days to get it perfect on all three when bolted on.

my first drive was in my 48 conv. coupe after 6 years restoring it. Cant say I was impressed as I didnt have the dwell set right and 3 wires pulled out of the cap, after fixing that I was impressed and used it for a daily driver for 4 years until my father in law wanted it. I gave it to him knowing I will get it back, He is blind and cant drive so I still drive it whenever I want. Im just now putting the engine back in after the block cracked. one more part and it will be all done. Love driving it better than the Packard V12 as the Lincoln gets much better gas milage and the top goes down.

Your distributor is the thing between the water pumps, you can flip the bail wires but some take a little force. dont pull the distributor unless you know how to set it up, they are not fun to get set perfect even if you use a distributor machine, Dwell will change when its bolted back on. Most of the time if its hard starting its the condensors. You can use any condensors from a ford or merc from 36-48, the only things that will be different is the mounting tab, just unsolder the ones off your Lincoln and resolder them on the new ones. If you cant find them local try Drake ford parts or Sacramento Vintage Ford. All the Licoln V12s turn over rather slowly, but make sure you have at least 2 guage wire, I run 0-00 welding cable on mine, makes a huge difference. If you need more help go down to the lincoln forum or send me a PM, I will be glad to help.

The silver toggle swith is for your running lights, it will switch the headlight to the running lights, The T is your throttle, pull it out to have early cruise control, C is choke, L for lights and far right should be cigar lighter if your car was equiped with it.

LAst time I checked my 48 with all the mods I did to the engine was getting 20mpg with the OD kicked in at 65mph. Thats with the 2x2 edelbrock intake, I do have L78x15 tires which are 29.5" tall which helps a little too. It cruises nicely at 75mph and should be a lot more fun with the new steering box.

This is the shroud I built for my 48, I got the dimensions from TWOZ about 6-8 years ago. All of this was built on a vise with a hammer and some tin snips. The welding of the fan blade cover was done by a good friend. If you have acces to a break you can make it look much better. Here are the dimensions. 26 3/4" wide on front side to side. top to bottom 26 5/8" top to cut out on sides 14 1/2" top center to fan opening 3 1/4" fan opening is 18" and on mine is 1/4" narrower on the drivers side to keep the fan centered and I only have 3/8" when mounted between fan and shroud. The fan cover is 1 1/2" wide and 42" long dont forget to add 3/4" to the sides for the bend top also, I added 1 1/2" at the top to make a rounded edge since it sits up against the core, didnt want a sharpe edge there. The side platesare 5" wide by 12" long and bolted to the inside of the fan shroud and then to the side plates of the radiator cradle. I used 18 guage sheet steel for everything with some J nuts to bolt it all together. If anywants more info on it or more detailed pics let me know and send me your email. I will see if I can find the TWOZ to post thier drawing of it.

That looks good Peecher. Cant wait to hear how it runs with the 4bbl. Just the extra 2bbl on mine with the minor mods I did made a world of difference. I also tried the 2 six volt coils and an old coil base plate and it works real good but doesnt look as nice as the stock coils, So I save it for emergancies.

The edelbrock intake hasnt been made since 48, there are a few around but I would go with one of the new 4bbl or 3 duece set ups. The 4bbl being eaisest to tune and make linkage for and the 3x2 set up for cool factor and the ease of set up. The 2x2 set up is a little pain to get the linkage set up, not to bad to tune and gas milage isnt very bad at all.

I will post some when I get a little time in the next day or two.

Never mind, got it figured out. If you ever have to do this, take the steering wheel off, take out the front seat coushion, dissconnect the shifter linkage and seperate the shifer bracket that holds onto the steering column, dissconnect the wiring to the steering wheel to allow travel of the column, unbolt the steering box and lift it up and slide it out of the car. If your lucky the column cover will come loose and you can skip everything after taking off the steering wheel and skip right to unbolting the box and lifting it enough to clear the frame and slide it out, this was done with no radiator or engine in the car.

I match ported the intake and exhaust ports and then ran a stiff wire brush in all the runners to clean up the slag and smooth them out, I have 3 ring aluminum pistons .030 over, got them from EGGE. running an old edelbrock 2x2 intake with stock LZ carbs. shaved the heads .010 mostly to clean them up. increased the crossover pipe to 2" and 2 1/2" from there out to a glass pack. Rebalanced the entire engine and did 3 angle valve job, engine runs stong and steady at 80mph on the freeway. OD helps a lot. I use Packard 440 wires with new coils and plates and condensors, always keep extra condensors as they seem to go out when you least want them to.

Im replacing my steering box on my 48 conv. coupe and would like to know if the sleve unbolts at the top by the shift linkage? Its all unbolted and slid down ready to drop, have a rebuilt one ready to go back in.

I built a fan shroud for my 48 conv. coupe, also running skips pumps and deflector pans and a 6 volt electric fan, mounted in the front as a pusher, nobody knows its there. My temp stays at 180 whenever Im driving even in the 105 temps in calif in this slow moving traffic. I still need to get a 3-5lb pressure cap just to help keep the fluid in as it still boils out a little after a long hot drive once shut off. I got the dimensions from the way of the Zypher about 8-10 years ago. If you need pics I can send them to you and do my best to get all the dimensions. Just send me your email in a PM.

Thanks Peecher. That will save me some time.

Anyone know what size the thread is on the steering shaft for the steering wheel? Found a used steering box and rebuilt it but the threads are ruined and need rethreaded.