PFindlay

I have diagrams for 1922, models EJ, EG, EH, EK, EL, EM, & SH. I'd be happy to send you whichever you need. Peter

Looks like an '11 Cadillac. I did all of mine - it gets easier once you've done a few. It's not a split rim, but a lock ring holding the side ring in place. There's another side ring on the other side of the tire. The lock ring What you need to do is compress the tire sidewalls, or perhaps even the side rings if you can get clamps on them. (i.e. make the tire skinnier.) Then you can remove the lock ring by prying out the loose end and working it around the rim until you get to the fixed end. Be careful not to bend or twist the lock ring. If it gets out of round you'll have a tough time getting it to reassemble properly. And everything will go easier if you remove any rust on the side rings or lock rings. Once the lock ring is off the side ring should slide straight off. If you can push the valve stem up into the tire then you can slide the tire, tube, and liner off together. When reassembling, make sure the lock ring seats right down and nestles inside the side ring, as shown in your picture above. You may need to tap the lock ring with a mallet to get it to seat properly. When inflating, I took the wheel off and laid it with the lock ring side down so it had nowhere to go if it wasn't secure. I also only inflated it to half pressure and let it sit for awhile and inspected the lock ring to make sure it was still seated properly, before going to full pressure. Peter

What is the ID of the largest one?

I was told recently that the Forney collection includes (or used to include?) a rare Canadian built Russell car. I'd like to confirm this and add the car to the Russell registry I'm keeping. Is there anyone who knows the collection well enough to shed any light on this? I've reached out to the museum by email but haven't heard anything back. Peter

I have two Paige 6-66 wiring diagrams. One for the Grey & Davis system, the other for a Remy system. If either of these are for your car I will scan and send. Peter

Here it is:

I would ask in the Oldsmobile club https://www.oldsmobileclub.org/ or on one of the Oldsmobile Facebook pages like this one: https://www.facebook.com/groups/269167770107591

Sorry, I don't have this part.

You are correct, there's no connection. The motorcycle Henderson Brothers, Tom & William, were grandsons of Alexander Winton and their father was a Winton President of some sort. One brother trained at Winton, but I'm sure both had much experience and many skills passed down the family line. The Henderson car family was out of St. Louis. Here are two of my favourite Henderson photos, one from 1912, the other from 104 years later.

Or how about "JackRabbit" (Apperson)?

The rear axle is underslung, i.e. the springs are hanging beneath the axle. The front springs sit on top of the axle. REO did this in the mid teens as well as other makes, I'm sure.

Here's the Jay Leno video about Element extinguishers. I carry them in my cars, hope I never get to try one. I like the fact that there's no mess and no "best before" aspect. It may sit there for 20 years before I need it.

These look like DeSoto Airflow skirts, maybe 1935-36?

Layden, do you know approximately what years Gemmer produced this model K box? Is there a date on the catalog?

I have two of these pieces. $40 USD + shipping each.

Center section from 1940 Olds dash - radio surround, speaker grill and ashtray. $50 USD + shipping. Single hubcap. $10 USD + shipping These are parts left after selling my '40 Olds. Also have internals from a 230 six engine I parted out (cracked block).

Nice job, Keith. A 100 year old car would look good on you. Be careful, you're getting close! Peter

This is exactly the attitude you need especially when driving pre-WW1 cars. I don't have signals and lights on some of my cars/motorcycles, but even for those who do, you can't count on the other driver seeing your signal or that neat little brake light you fitted inside your tail lamp. You have to assume that other car will turn in front of you, or stop suddenly, or veer into your lane as they try to snap a picture of you or ..., or ..., or ... and drive accordingly. (Not to mention the fact that you have to assume there's always the possibility of a mechanical failure - brakes, steering, tires, stalling in an intersection, etc. This puts the onus on you to make sure your car is properly prepared for each outing and avoid driving to the extremes, just in case.) So you do whatever you can to be noticed and keep safe. But it's all up to you. This is life saving advice for all motorcyclists as well as pre-war car drivers.

Sorry it's gone. The Prevost was my favourite bus to drive. I could spend all day behind the wheel and it never felt like work.

Is that the drive that I saw on Ebay recently, and asked about?

Actually, the factory used both spellings. Here are two clips from the 1912 Instruction Book and Parts Price List. On page 25 they refer to "every REO owner" and on the very next page the show a "Reo the Fifth". But the badge on the front of my 1912 Reo the Fifth says REO.

I've read somewhere that Reo is an impolite word in some South American countries, so they went with Rio instead, as in Rio de Janeiro. As for capitalization, at various times the company used both. On the car and in company publications.

Does anyone know how to contact Steve, or whoever is the current owner of this Jeffery?

Actually, neither. I'm the one guy that drives a 1915 Russell, the car Craig was referring to above. Perhaps the difference between the A-37 and the A-35 was the drive mechanism. Below is an A-35 picture I found. It has a mechanical drive. I'd need all those pieces too to put my car back to the correct starter. But, just in case - what's the price and has it been tested? Thanks.

Yes, thanks for posting this and thanks for spotting Russell there, Craig. It looks like a great resource. Could you get me scans of pages 341, 179, & 250? Thanks, Peter If there's anyone out there with a Bijur A-35 starter, I'm looking.