TheMoneyPit

I think the confusion is that these two look like they were made to mount directly to the door post on a closed car as opposed to clamping onto a somewhat round windshield post.

FWIW there is a 24 Special 6 Touring in the Studebaker section for sale at $6500 - do not know if that helps or hurts...

A valid point - we are only looking at pictures which can make a car look SO much better than in real life.

I think it seems pretty reasonable for something that could be a HPOF toy - look around and see what 15K gets in the Ford aisle and that Franklin is a Classic...

Tyrone/Altoona line - I know the car and Tony is at Hershey I believe.

There are similarities to the Studebaker for sale in that section but your picture is clear enough to show a rectangular radiator emblem. I agree it is high end, but am also at a loss.

I also want to date the Graham & Dodge truck shells together as 1928 - there used to be one around locally but the owner passed many years ago and I've not seen the truck since.

WOW - I think if you look around on the Model T Ford websites you should find twice the car for that much. I was thinking $3500 to $4000

The Roosevelt emblem is 29 only and I think the shell changed for 30 along with the emblem - but I also believe the shell was used on an export model but do not know for how long.

Another method I was told by an old(er) mechanic was to use a 10-penny nail - hold it on an angle in the timing hole so that you feel the indent just prior to it passing by the hole - then switch to the pin and use a light touch for the last few degrees. Bleeding off the compression as Dave mentioned is a good idea too.

Not all of them... For more automobillia pictures you can view my images thru my user profile.

No gear on the distributor side - the gear is part of the oil pump which you can stick in at any gear tooth - it does not matter at this time. Once your engine is assembled and installed you will need to time your distributor which you do by setting the cam lobe inside the distributor to match the engine - first you align the engine to #1 TDC using a pin thru the front cover (thats the funny bolt sticking out of the front passengers side) by removing it and flipping it around - then hand cranking the engine till it hits a detent area in the cam gear - once you have TDC using that pin you loosen the distributor cam and move it to match the correct cylinder using an ohm meter across the points. It's easy after you do it a few times, but sounds funny written out. There are mechanics manuals written by Les Andrews which are around $35.00 in all the ford parts suppliers catalogs - get Volume 1 as the information there is reffered to every time I do things like this. I have 2 copies now - one so greasy it can hardly be read.

A friend of mine bought the remains of an ignition restoration shop that had closed-up in the early 1970's - one of the things he found was an Auto-Lite 6 cylinder dual ignition distributor #1GE400714-1 which was tagged as for a 1934 Nash. He asked me about it, wanting to know what other vehicles it might fit and it's value. I'm at a loss on this, so any information on this unit is appreciated - I could post pictures in a few days if necessary. If anyone needs it PM me and I'll point you his way. Thanks, Mark

I agree - for under $200.00 you can replace every stitch in a model A or T - well worth the investment IMO.

Well - here is an idea for you - get some very high resolution pictures and the diameter measurements from the one in New Jersey (or any other original emblem) and talk with Karla Maxwell about having a reproduction made. There was a gentleman looking for a Chalmers-Detroit emblem several years ago who did just that using photographs of the one in my collection - the reproduction came out so good that you would be hard pressed to tell the difference.

+2 on the above. This is an earlier mascot, but I'm 90% sure that the threaded cap was integral to the die-cast for all of these (see pic of earlier version below) - which means the threaded portion was cut from the bottom of the mascot you have. It is in much worse condition than you think.

Adding to Dave's above and going to the other end - a really clean UNRESTORED standard roadster will go 12-15k - comparible phaeton 15-18k There were 3 poorly restored A's at the OHTM auction 12.5k to 18.5k and all 3 did not make reserve.

These are most likey aftermarket items - around 1916 most states started implementing laws against using plate glass lenses due to the glare of the lights and as cars became faster the light needed to be more focused than before - a lot of companies made replacements due to these laws. That being said the "bubble" lenses seem to be very popular to have on cars and would bring up to $50 - $75 on e-bay by someone who had a car they would fit into.

WOW

They look like something along the lines of a firetruck or commercial application to me...

I was going to toss out NRS ford, but am not close enough to really look at one first. A lot of cars had the plain splash shield front fender like that and it would be hard to tell them apart.

Ditto - Rarity does not value make, it is all about condition which is THE KEY in cans and toys...

Only if they are from a truck and not a beat-up car shell bondo'd and painted to look truck...

If you have pictures - I have a set of reportedly Studebaker shocks in the shed.

You should proceed VERY slowly here - that looks like a cut-down 4-door sedan in POOR condition and I believe you can get a better project from e-bay for half his asking price...