peecher

Those numbers look to be for the overdrive housing and the B2 is part of the engine block casting number. Don't know what the "V31622" is? the 6H is probably part of the original serial number. Any how if you have a post war engine you'll need a (Ford) 10" clutch. Earl Brown can supply a real nice set...Have one in my '48 club coupe...smoothest clutch I've ever used!

Jack, The only "seal" I've ever seen in this area is a felt material behind the washer. I think someone has used an after market seal. Mac's offer a inner axle retainer so this might work for you.

Dave, I think the addition of some Marvel Mystery oil might be a good move. With only one lifter acting up it may just have a sticking check valve. After a few miles the lifter may "free" up. Your oil pressure is normal for a Zephyr with a few miles on it.

Rotate the solenoid 1/4 turn and it should slip right out. Remember to do the same when installing.

There is no "easy" way to restring the engine wiring conduits. You can probably pull the engine wires out while the spark plug wires are still in place but you would have a hellava time trying to restring them with the spark plugs wire still in place. The accepted way to do this job is to pull everything out of the conduits, pull the engine wires( generator, ignition, overdrive and temperature)into the conduit first then pull in the spark plug wires. That left conduit gets real "snug" so be sure to use 7 mm spark plug wire.

Left bank front to back, odd numbers; right bank front to back, even numbers.

Abe, the Lincoln V12 fires un-evenly due to the common rod journals and 75 deg "V". Each bank of 6 cylinders fire evenly but side to side is off set. The points in the distributor do not "break" at 90 deg's apart, they too are offset. I guess the amazing thing is how smooth they run.

The unit on the left fits inside the lifter body as shone on the right. If you replace the lifters you should probably have the lifter bodies resurfaced.

The '38 and newer Lincolns had a hypoid type rear axle. I wouldn't use the 600W type gear oil. Try either the 85-140 or 140 type gear oil. I like the 85-140 especially in the transmission for easier shifting in really cold weather.

About the plumbing difference: the above scheme was used on the '39 cars but the gear shift levers on the '40 and newer cars made use of the center port impossible.

The top port at the rear is also the "feed" port. The pressure switch is screwed into a fitting in the line that from this port to th side of the filter canister. The center port at the rear should be plugged, this port was used during manufacturing. The lower port at the rear is the return from the bottom of the filter canister. This port terminates in the feed line for the hydraulic lifters. Be sure to check the small orifice in the side of the center tube in the filter canister. It's about a couple of inches from the top. All oil flowing thru the filter must pass thru this orifice. During engine operation, after start up, oil for the lifters is supplied from the filter.

Glen, this car was featured in a 1946 movie " Anchors Aweigh". It was painted a cream color, evidently for the movie.

While similar to the Ford system the Zephyr uses a cable operated Bendix system which features a "servo" action. I think the most important thing about these brakes are "free" cables and the right brake lining. Properly adjusted these brakes will approach hydraulics in stopping power. If you are not sure about how "free" the cables are I would remove them from the car and soak them in something like kerosene working them back and forth in the their conduits. Years ago I did this on a '38 and the brakes were butter smooth. The Way of The Zephyr magazine( Nov.-Dec 2013) gave a very detailed adjustment procedure for the '36 -'38 Zephyr. These brakes require very frequent adjustments at best and getting the car to actually stop in a straight line difficult.

You might want to check the color of the paint. My '46 was originally Sheldon grey and there was no metallic in it, just a light grey. When the '47 cars were "freshened" in March of '47 they did change the colors and there were a couple of new metallic grey finishes. The early '47 cars carried over the '46 colors.

Try Boos Herrel (sources). They were able to supply them a couple of years ago.

Seems like the spring has shifted to the left. The spring center bolt may have slipped out of centering hole in the spring perch cross member, the spring perch may have cracked or the spring center bolt may have broke allowing the main leaf to shift. I believe your car is a '40? In '41 the spring perch was rubber mounted to the cross member and with age the rubber mounts would deteriorate allowing the spring perch to move sideways. What is the tire to fender skirt clearance on the right side?

The design of the Edmunds dual manifold necessitates that the carburetors must be operated in unison. The intake runners are isolated in 4 groups of 3 cylinders making idle adjustments a little tedious. The 3 bolt bases usually do not have the vacuum tap for the distributor so you will need to use the vacuum tap on the manifold. The 4 bolt bases on your carbs can be easily switched and the main jets can be changed to lean up the mixture a tad. I can supply a couple of pre-war Lincoln 3 bolt base reconditioned carbs if needed. These are jetted leaner than the 4 bolt carbs used on post war cars and will work fine. Linkage is available to hook up the accelerator and choke levers so your original linkage will work. If you use and convert your 4 bolt carbs be sure to check the "flatness" of the base of the (center) carb body. These old devils warp causing a loss in vacuum to the power valve making for a rich mixture so those bodys need to be trued up.

I think you have the wrong manual, the general one for most cars using the BW OD. The 5 terminal relay and 3 terminal solenoid are the correct units for your '41. Later Lincolns used a 6 terminal relay. There are 2 wiring diagrams for the '41. They only differ slightly and either one will work. The kick down switch on the floor board under the accelerator pedal along with the governor are integral parts of the circuit and need to be in working order. I have copies of the wiring diagrams if you need them and can send them to you if you send me your address. dpnpo@wavecable.com Naragansett can supply a new wiring harness if needed.

All H series Lincolns have equal length (from center) leaves. The K series Lincolns had "short end...long end" springs due to it's longitudinal set-up.

Felpro may not offer the head gaskets individual or in a pair? Egge and Olson's both offer Best brand head gaskets separately. I've used these with no problem.

New floats are available from Mac's Auto Parts, $8.95. They also have gaskets or a complete sending unit if needed. 877-230-9680

Beltfed, from all your posts it appears that someone(s) has really messed things up! Lots of "undoing" to do. The only thing I can think of about those items above is that perhaps the PO had intended to install a stabilizer bar? the '40's and newer had similar brackets that housed rubber grommets that supported the stabilizer bar...trouble is there is no extra "eye" to attach the linkage.

The body tag number is unique to your car as well as the serial number. I would check with your DOV before attempting to change your title when transferring.

The serial numbers for 1947 went from 7H152840 to 7H174289. This number is stamped in frame rail next to the left front engine mount. The 5EH prefix was used for post-war parts unique to the '46 to '48 cars. I think some where along the line the Body Tag on the fire wall got confused with the serial number. The serial number is also stamped in the frame near the left rear shock absorber and on the transmission casting near the clutch inspection plate.

Originally the factory offered the '48 Maroon Continental Cabriolet in Red or Tan all leather, Red leather with Tan whipcord and Tan leather with Tan whipcord.