peecher

I mentioned the small orifice first as it's pretty easy to check....it's about a couple of inches down from the top of the center tube, about .040 -.060" diameter. The by pass valve is located under the large (15/16") hex cap next to the fuel pump bushing and will require the removal of the intake manifold in order to get at it. This brass valve ( 7/16" hex) is normally closed unless there is a pressure differential of around 4 psi between the oil filter exit line and the main oil line from the pump. They can malfunction/stop-up. The pump has it's own relief valve (on the side) and is set a fairly high pressure depending on which pump the engine has. The relief valve for the hydraulic tappets is located at the front of the valve chamber under a similar 15/16" hex cap. It's set at 20 psi so the tappets don't see too much pressure. If this ball and spring was missing it too would cause the tappets to run low on supply allowing the feed lines for the tappets too lose pressure. I suspect the "real" oil pressure is higher than the 0-20 psi you mentioned?

Dave, this sounds like the tappets ran low on oil supply. The main oil supply for the hydraulic tappets is from the oil filter and I would look for a restriction in the small orifice near the top of the center tube in the filter cannister. This could very well been over looked during a rebuild as could the small bypass valve. The bypass valve was intended to allow oil flow to the lifters when flow thru the filter was clogged so that too may need to be checked? The high RPM's during the highway speeds may have been what triggered the tappet noise. Rather doubt the relief valve in the oil pump stuck. By the way what is the running oil pressure?

These are standard Ford items and will work. You'll need 3. p/n 99A-2079-A. used on '39 to '48 Fords. Mac's has them at $14.75 each.

key "off" the gauge will sit at full "hot"

Unforunately the Color library lists paint colors for 1936 for the K Lincoln. Starting in 1937 they list colors for the Zephyr. The "Zephyr Blue" used in '36 was probably the same (or close to) the "Zephr Blue" used in '37 or '38.

Fixing someone's screwed up work is no fun at all! Mercy. The little "ball" is in the end of the grease fitting...it's spring loaded and won't allow any back flow when shooting grease thru it. Many, if not most folks would pump chassis grease into the U-joint so that's no shocker. I personally use a "dukes" mixture of 1/2 chassis grease and 1/2 gear oil for the U-joints on my cars.

Bob, it's the nuts on the horizontal studs. there are two more on the bottom for a total of 4. These nuts are threaded on studs so when loosening them the stud may turn loose and this is ok. After removing the nuts you can rotate the "ball cap" 180 deg's. You may have to undo the speedo drive in order to get enough rearward movement of the ball cap to rotate it. Someone just didn't know what they were doing when they assembled it.

The speedometer take off is in the correct position on the torque tube. The attaching cable makes a big loop and runs forward up to the fire wall (or toe board) and thru it to the speedo. If you have a Columbia rear axle there should be a small gear box located in the engine compartment that the cable attaches to. There's another cable that goes thru the firewall that drives the speedo. This small gear box corrects the speedo reading when the Columbia is engaged.

If you are using the standard Ford fuel pump it will produce 1-1/2 to 3-1/2 psi but I would check the float level and the float valve itself. If you hold the air horn upside down the float will complete close and not leak with just the weight of the float. Re check the snugness/ seal at the nozzle bars...any looseness caused by a mismatch in height between the nozzle bars and the accelerator spray nozzle. Loosen the back clamp for the nozzle bars to check for looseness at the front (near the fuel bowl). Normal fuel level in the bowl is right at the level where the nozzle bars seal at the carb body. I would recheck the power valve for leaks just to be sure. Some times the brass check valve for the accerator circuit (under the spray nozzle) is missing and this might cause some over richness. If the carb is operating like it's supposed to the idle mixture screws should be 1/2 to 3/4 turn out ( from seated).

Dave, you definitly do not need that breather. The PVC system will do a much better job with that breather plugged up. The location/placement of that breather is probably critical? Just be sure to use the regular (breathable) oil filler tube cap.

The 50 psi unit is correct for all V12's however you may have a hard time finding a "new" one as most suppliers offer only the 80 psi unit. The 50 psi senders were used on Kaisers and I managed to get one from Kaiser Parts but that was sometime ago. It's a bit larger than the Ford unit but works with the Lincoln gauge.

Chrome exhaust tips were usually an aftermarket accessory and might have been offered by Ford dealers but dual exhaust were never a factory option to my knowledge.

Lee, I wouldn't worry too much about the modern oil with reduced zinc (ZDDP) content. The valve train on the V12 is not "loaded" heavy enough to require oil with large zinc content. You can use oils such as Brad Penn which do have big doses of ZDDP or some oils designated for diesel engines if you want. A fresh V12 should be able to use a good quality 10-40 and maintain good oil pressure.

During the regular point operation the spring moves slightly so it depends on when and/or if the spring touches during the opening and closing of the points.

Suggest you take a close look at the points on the "bad" side. Check to make sure the spring (blade) on the points is not touching one of the adjustment screws. The springs come very close to these screws. You may be able to correct this as the spring has a slight larger hole where it attaches. The voltage at the coil connection should go to full battery (feed) voltage with the points open. The terminal plate dosen't really have anything to do with this.

Believe that's the way they should be...both my post war cars are that way.

Oil flows from the oil pump cavity to the main oil line that feeds the cam, main and connecting rod bearings. There is a tap ( rear of engine) from the the oil pump cavity that feeds the oil filter. There is also a by-pass valve in the main oil line that feeds the separate valve lifter oil lines. After oil circulates thru the oil fiter the return feeds directly into the valve lifter oil lines. The by-pass valve only "opens" to the main oil line when the oil pressure differential between the main oil line and the filtered oil drops below approximately 4 psi...such as when the engine first starts up or when the filter becomes clogged.

You will now be able to correct for any wear(excess play) between the roller shaft and worm. If you are satisfied that there is no up-down movement in the worm shaft you can remove one (thin) roller shaft shim at a time and check for snugness with roller at the "over center" position. You will have to install the upper cap and remove end play (up-down)in the roller shaft to do this.

You didn't mention the gas tank or fuel line? Any rig sitting this long may have an accumulation of crude/rust in the tank. There's no need to dribble in oil thru the top fitting (oil filter line). Change the oil and with all the plugs removed turn the engine over with the starter for about 20 seconds...this will "pre-lube" all the bearings.

Any number of things can be the culprit but in this case I suspect the distributor. "Losing power" can mean one bank of cylinders is losing ignition. A bad condensor,coil or even the points can be at fault. I suggest you remove the distributor/coil and send it to Jake Fleming (see "sources" at this site) for a check and repair. I've had a case where one set of points would stick slightly open intermittedly, losing ignition to one whole bank of cylinders.

Your synchronizer clutch is probably worn and double clutching is probably a good idea until you get it fixed. After 1937 Ford and Lincoln used a different type of unit with blocker rings and what would happen over time and useage is that the bronze "blocker rings" wear to the point where that they don't grip the main drive or the second gear. When the synchro is working like it suppose to you can shift quick and silent. Not sure how available new/rebuilt synchro clutches for this eary Ford/Lincoln transmission are?

Oops, you are so right. Those "hex" caps were threaded and the "round" ones were the pressed on type.

The owner's manual(s) and the '46 Ford manual gives the compression pressure as 105 to 125 psi for both the FordV8 and LincolnV12 engines.

You have pictured a front hub. It requires no puller. Remove the cap (pry off) unscrew the nut, outer bearing and the hub can be removed. The old puller will work on the rear hubs which do have the "groove".

I agree it's probably the sending unit next to the filter cannister. Finding "good" 50# sending units might be hard so you may end up using a 80# unit and while the indicated pressure won't be accurate at least you'll have a better indication of oil pressure. Engine stalling: by being hard to restart a "warmed" engine do you mean the engine cranks slowly and laborious? You may have to set the idle up a bit until the new rebuilt "snugness" subsides.