2seater

I agree with Ronnie. If the behavior changed with the sensor change then it needs further scrutiny. Some GM models with the same engine may use two sensors of some type for differing purposes but the Reatta only uses one two wire sensor and the ECM/BCM does the rest. Not exactly the same, but I had a Saturn many years ago which used two sensors. One for the gauge and one for the ECM. A common problem was for the ECM sensor to fail (poor design) and the car would become almost undriveable while the gauge read normally. While not the same, it does indicate seemingly unrelated things can act up with a bad signal.

I am not sure if there is such a thing as a new Memcal available but I got a good used one from Jim Finn. Part of the unit is reprogrammable but the majority is not, and I am guessing that part contains the knock system. I understand the desire to have a replacement part available, but the car will run and work successfully with the ECM hanging loose, so it would not really be out of service if reseating the chip and ECM connectors doesn't work.

On the three LN3 manifolds I have, the coolant temperature sensor is below and slightly to the rear of the throttle body. It points slightly upwards and toward the rear. It is a two wire sensor.

With larger injectors, the mixture will be a little fat when in open loop, like cold or at full throttle. The expected injector flow rate is adjustable in the chip if desired. Regarding the knock counts, I had a similar issue where it would not register any knock when testing. I replaced the Memcal with one from Jim and the problem went away. I would at least try disconnecting and reinstalling the harness connections at the ECM and the Memcal itself.

I would not expect the integrator and block earn to be at exactly 128 unless the engine is cold and the O2 sensor isn't functioning. The integrator should indicate above and below the 128 number as the O2 sensor keeps the fuel mixture at the target value. If the injectors are indeed larger than stock, the block learn "should" be a substantially lower number, maybe 110-115 as it is making a gross adjustment to get the integrator in the ballpark.

Correct on the size and rating of both the stock Reatta injectors and the Multec's. I can't imagine how the injectors, working or not, would affect the 041 code, but if it's gone, that's great. Take a look at the integrator, E019 and block learn, E020 to see that the ecm has properly adjusted for the greater flow. I would expect the integrator to circle around the 128 number and the block learn to drop down to the low 100's to compensate. Are the Multec's gray with a rather fat body? This is not meant as a criticism, but the Multec's don't have a sterling reputation for reliability with ethanol in the fuel. I also have a set which ran successfully for some time but I did have one fail.

Without data, we are lost. Just for reference (although my chip is not stock), I checked a few readings while driving to my cottage. This is at 65 mph on relatively flat highway: spark advance: 40*-45*, O2 cross counts: 8-24, Integrator: 124-132, Block learn: 119. I would consider all of that normal. Block learn is a little low so I must have calculated the 24# injectors slightly low, but well within tolerance for the ECM. Everything else boringly normal as well.

It is curious. Likely not fuel delivery since it apparently has no issue with speed or acceleration. We really need actual sensor readings when it acts up, like a snapshot of everything. Short of that, watching each individual ECM data output to see if it suddenly changes in the trouble zone. If it isn't a sensor acting up, then the ECM or Prom are suspect. Without more data, it's just guessing.

I do not know if there is a difference between the 89 and 90 regarding temperature sensors, but the '90 only uses one. I do not know if the '89 has selectable F* and C* for the display, but the '90 displays in C* only, which would be about 230*F. Perhaps someone with more experience with the touch screen could enlighten. Any luck on the rest of the readings or snapshot?

The screw and locknut set the endplay of the motor shaft and worm gear, which looks like it may have been loosened about the thickness of the nut. The white gear has a flange, or non-machined portion on the inside edge that requires a pretty good tug to get past. Many people remove a portion of that non-machined area to allow the worm to slip past for assembly. The arm still looks pretty serviceable from the photo as long as the nut that holds it is good an tight. I have found setting the end play on the adjustment screw to 1/16" or less helps the door open more smoothly. You can check the end play with the manual adjuster knob near the middle of travel and pull in and out on the knob.

I know the knock sensor behavior has been our focus, but just out of curiosity, are the fuel integrator and block learn, ED19 & 20, stuck on 128 by chance? If I read the touchscreen indicator correctly, it was in open loop, warmed up and cruising. Once beyond a certain TPS voltage value, the ECM goes into power enrichment, which may be masking some other issue. What coolant temperature is indicated?

Multiple values at the same time are helpful as Padgett mentioned. In the absence of a scanner, you could try a snapshot of the readings when it acts up. It may show where something is amiss, but the update rate isn't that fast and may miss something, but worth a try. Interesting that it seems normal at full throttle. The knock sensor is still active under those conditions and should indicate if you are seeing high knock counts, which will trigger the spark retard. The O2 should certainly be active at cruise and moderate throttle. As far as I know, the O2 will still give actual output voltage under full throttle but is ignored by the ECM and reverts to the base programming values. I do not know if a dead O2 sensor will give the odd behavior. I would think at the least, mileage would be pretty bad. It is never a bad idea to install a new O2, especially if the history of the present one is unknown. I don't have as much experience with the touchscreen, but as pointed out, it looks like not in lockup and in open loop, which would not allow lockup?

The name "spark angle" is sort of a misnomer. It is the spark retard ordered by the ECM in response to knock. I don't know of a reason a standard naturally aspirated engine should ever indicate spark retard, although it is not impossible. Under ordinary driving, it should never indicate spark retard, that will really cause drivability issues. It is not unusual to get some knock counts, ED17, especially on startup or under some high stress situations, but it takes a lot of knock counts to get the ECM to retard the spark, in other words, some knock counts are expected. The number should not stick in one place and stay there. You can usually trigger the knock sensor to indicate knock counts by rapping sharply on the rear engine lift bracket while idling. You may even be able to get the engine to stumble. If the knock counts don't change after doing this, then I would suspect the knock sensor or connection first, or a flaw in the EPROM. If the knock sensor is tightened excessively, it may become overly sensitive. The ED08 reading is about right for warm idle, and will likely jump up a few degrees when idling in gear. While driving, the spark timing will vary all over the place and is normal, although it should stay somewhat constant under constant speed and load. You need to watch that ED16 while driving in that zone that is giving you fits. I think Daniel is on the right track. I don't know what the conditions were for the O2 sensor readings. The sensor must warm up before it will become active and a cold start or prolonged slow idle will not keep the sensor hot enough. It is best to watch it while driving for a bit. If the cross counts stay at zero, it's either the sensor or connection. A good active sensor will likely be in the teens for cross counts while cruising, essentially more is generally better.

X2 on checking the reservoir tank. I just checked mine by pulling the line from it and it held some amount of vacuum after sitting for six hours, so it would seem the controller should hold reasonable vacuum also if tested separately.

You can read the voltage for adjustment in diagnostics, and a helper would make that easier. The TPS is in an awkward position, so if you try to change it on the car, place a rag or something underneath to catch the screws if dropped. They are stainless steel and non-magnetic.

These aren't antique plates. I believe they must be pre-1945 to qualify in Wisconsin. I agree the odd specific nature of the rules look suspicious ?

Hobbyist license plate numbers are assigned to the vehicle owner for a lifetime and the registration does not expire. A letter suffix is added to the number (i.e., 1A, 1B, etc.) for each subsequent hobbyist vehicle owned by the same person. Hobbyist plates cannot be personalized. Types of hobbyist vehicles Street modified vehicles Must be at least 20 model years old. Can still be recognized as the original vehicle year and make. Are altered from the original vehicle. Are typically known as "hot rods" or "street rods". Replica vehicles Must replicate a vehicle at least 20 model years old. Are reproductions of vehicles originally made by another manufacturer. (Indicate the year and make that the vehicle replicates in Section A of the application.) Reconstructed vehicles Are constructed from a vehicle at least 20 model years old. Are no longer recognizable as the original vehicle. If newly reconstructed, the application must include a bill of sale for all major parts used in the construction of the vehicle. May need an inspection by a Wisconsin State Patrol inspector. You will receive a letter requesting an inspection, if needed. Homemade motorized vehicles Must have been constructed from new or used parts with a body and frame not originating from or resembling a previously manufactured motor vehicle. Homemade motorcycles must replicate a motorcycle 20 or more model years old. May need an inspection by a Wisconsin State Patrol inspector. You will receive a letter requesting an inspection, if needed. Vehicles that qualify A motor vehicle at least 20 years old from the current calendar year that is being preserved because of its historical interest and has no alterations to the body may be eligible for Collector license plates. Please refer to the chart below for examples of alterations; however, please keep in mind this list is not all inclusive. It will be the owner’s responsibility to properly certify if the vehicle has body alterations. Misrepresenting a vehicle’s eligibility could result in citations for improper registration. This list in not all inclusive. Changes made Alteration? Comments Paint/graphics No Replacing sheet metal/repairs No As long as it mirrors the original body. Flared fenders Yes Louvered hood Yes Unless owner provides evidence it was a factory available option the year the vehicle was manufactured. Custom badging/cloning No For example, re-badging a base model Camaro as an SS, not an alteration to change or add badges, graphics, etc. Ground effects kit Yes* Not an alteration if factory available option offered the year the vehicle was manufactured. It is an alteration if not factory-offered (after market). Wings/spoilers/hood scoops Yes* Not an alteration if factory available option offered the year the vehicle was manufactured. It is an alteration if not factory-offered (after market). Lift kits/Lowering kits, wheels, tires No As long as the body wasn’t altered to accommodate larger wheels for lifts, or to accommodate wheels for lowering kits. Snowplows, trailer hitches, etc. No Accessories such as these are not alterations unless the body of the vehicle had to be altered to accommodate them. Truck bed conversions Yes* A 1-ton pickup or larger likely would be delivered without a box, so the bed conversion/addition would not be considered an alteration or modification. Engine or engine parts No Windows/glass replacement No Fender or bumper replacement No Interior of vehicle (seats, dashboard, radio) No *Indicates possible exceptions All vehicles are required to meet the standards outlined in Wis. Stats. 347 Equipment of Vehicles to legally operate on Wisconsin Highways. The following former military vehicles also qualify for Collector plates, even if they have been altered or modified: GMC DUKW ("Duck") six-wheel drive utility vehicle originally manufactured for use by the U.S. military forces during World War II that is at least 25 years old Humvee multipurpose wheeled vehicle originally manufactured for use by the U.S. military forces that is at least 22 years old Kaiser Jeep M715 that is at least 25 years old Pinzgauer all-terrain, four- or six-wheel drive vehicle that is at least 25 years old

I have considered the plates before but the colors are butt ugly, (sorry Dave). Hobbyist is a pea green and collector is a weird blue, and I just can't bring myself to apply those colors.

This is the somewhat lengthy thread on the controller modification. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/236973-climate-control-programmer-question/

I did extensive work on an HVAC controller several years ago and replaced the valves with externally mounted Ebay units. That worked flawlessly, but is a lot of work. That said, just drawing a vacuum on the black main feed to the controller yielded inconclusive results when testing to see if the whole assembly would hold vacuum. There is another check valve inside the controller with multiple connections to the four valves, and yes, it is possible to have a valve fail, although rare. The valves appear to be primarily gravity operated to close, although there may be a very light spring, and I have not dissected one. The reason I mention this is they will likely leak vacuum if not stood on end like the installed position. You can also check the individual actuators to see if they hold vacuum. The best way is to remove the entire vacuum connector on the bottom of the controller and apply vacuum to the individual ports. The connector is held in place with a threaded stud and something like a 7mm or 8mm nut in the middle.

That would explain the low BLM. The Bosch type 3 are available in 19# rating which would be stock. It sounds like they may be in the 22#-24# range, if everything else is working properly as mentioned before. If they are, it may run a bit rich when in open loop unless the flow rate is adjusted in the EEPROM.

The Block Learn is doing its job by keeping the Integrator in the correct range, but, it indicates it is reducing fuel to compensate, so it would indicate excess fuel. A larger than stock injector, fuel pressure too high or possibly one or more leaky injectors could cause this. The first place to check is pull the vacuum line from the pressure regulator and check for fuel leaking through the diaphragm. Another oddball place for pulling a combustible fluid is the vacuum modulator at the transaxle but very rare. Check the fuel pressure if you have a gauge. Dave's suggestion is a good one.

The green connector is a direct "hot" wire to the pump and only needs B+ to run the pump. The reverse is also true. A VOM connected to that connection will show if the pump is getting power.

X2 on the camber adjusting. There is already a camber bolt the sticks out straight toward the wheel and the strut is simply clamped in place to hold adjustment.

It sounds like a possible vacuum leak. When cold the rpm's are raised and the mixture is richer which may mask the excess, unmetered air. A commonly overlooked vacuum leak possibility is the PCV system buried under wires at the passengers rear of the intake plenum. You have already hit many of the common culprits.