rocketraider

Change fluid and filter first. If that doesn't stop the slipping, you may have to go into the transmission. It should have a Turbo 400 which doesn't have or need a kickdown cable. It downshifts electrically via a switch on the accelerator pedal under the dash.

Check your private messages. Flashing envelope at welcome message top left of screen.

Try www.usapartssupply.com , or I see new cores on ebay all the time. The 1968 Chassis Manual tells how to R&R the heater core. Heater only- drain coolant, remove the blower and duct assembly under hood (7 nuts), then pull the heater case from inside the car and you can access the core. A/C is a little more involved as you have to remove the heater case from inside the car under the dash. 11 screws and a couple vacuum lines, way back under the dash. Glove box needs to come out on both air and non-air cars. One thing to remember is to run a bead of soft sealer or caulking around the case when you put it back in the car. Otherwise you'll have a dust or water leak around it.

This is as simple as I can put it. When one is working right, it's right, and when it's not working right, look out. They are very sensitive to fluid level and throttle valve rod adjustment. They are also difficult to find someone qualified to service them. Parts availability is good; several companies have the rebuild kits. Torus covers are prone to cracking, creating an internal fluid leak which will affect operation. Most have a rough 1-2 shift, but it's no worse than a later GM 700-R4 or 4L80E in a truck. They tend to confuse younger service techs when taking the car in for service. I've had more than one ask me how to make the car back up? Other than these quirks, SlimJims are no worse to live with than other earlier automatics. Lack of people who know anything about them is the biggest drawback to owning one. Most of those guys are long retired or dead. Case in point: a trans shop here. The founder of the business could rebuild Hydra-Matics, SlimJims and Dynaflows in his sleep. He died in 1997, and his 35 year old son, while a competent trans man in his own right, knows nothing about these transmissions. He says he understands how they work, but has never tackled one himself and sends them to a guy 40 miles away who cut his teeth on them on the 60s. I wish he would do one himself, so I'd know there's someone still young enough to be around for a while that can work on it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think the OD65----- is the transmission code for warranty service, but my 65 manual (Sept 64 edition) doesn't show an OD code. It may have been in the supplement that was issued when the 400 engine was released. </div></div> OK- found the documentation on the running change in the November 1964 Service Guild. "Transmission Usage: Since the start of 1965 production another Turbo Hydra-Matic assembly has been released for use with Starfire engines. Originally, the Starfire engines used the OB transmission together with all other 4-barrel carburetor premium fuel engines. The Starfire engine now uses the OD transmission which has the 1-2 accumulator pressure tailored to match the increased engine torque and provide a firmer 1-2 shift. Current usage of engines and Turbo Hydra-Matic transmissions is as follows: Trans: Engine Usage OA Premium fuel 2-bbl carb OB Premium fuel 4-bbl carb OC Regular fuel 2-bbl carb OD Starfire engine OE Heavy Duty engine option" Amazing what can be found with a little research! Especially since I was looking for documentation on a Starfire script location change...

Not to my knowledge, but a competent body man shouldn't have any trouble making them as they are simple contours. Weatherstripping and some of the scripts are reproduced. Other than that it's NOS or good used. The mechanical parts are easy to find though. I'd be more concerned about the top mechanism than patch panels. Make sure it's not loose or binding anywhere thru its travel. Those all-electric "scissor tops" can be expensive to repair if something goes bad.

In nearly 15 years of doing the OCA Nationals, I've never seen one of them. I remember one Ninety-Eight coupe from PA. Seems most 61s at Nats are Starfires, and rarely more than a couple of those. Depends on where the show is. <span style="font-style: italic">Standard Catalog of Oldsmobile</span> says 12,343 Ninety Eight Sport Sedans made vs only 4445 coupes. The six-window Holiday sedan was most common at 13,331. I expect the Buick numbers were comparable. Now that I think about it, there was a mint green one in Richmond VA about ten years ago; it came to the first OCA Southeast Zone Meet we did in Clemmons NC. I remember it because I showed several people the "Sport Sedan" nameplates on the inside door panels.

Brian, that is a handsome automobile and no more common in Oldsmobile. The only one I ever remember seeing was the 61 Ninety-Eight my uncle and aunt had from 1962-64, which replaced their 1951 Roadmaster which was totalled in an ice storm.

These are the Super Stock IV Polycast wheel for 1971-72 Deltas. They came with trim rings, but those have a tendency toward getting road-rashed. The trim rings clip onto the edge of the rim, and it takes a careful tire man to get the balance weights in just the right spot so they don't interfere with the mounting clips. These bands are peculiar to the SSIV and to the 1977-79 Custom Chrome Wheel and other Olds bands won't fit into the recess between the polycast part and the outer edge of the wheel. However- I found out that a 15" trim band for 88-up Chevy/GMC pickups will fit this wheel, as will a Ford Polycast wheel trim band as used on mid 70s Thunderbirds and Cougars <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />. They'll fit any 5x5 bolt pattern Olds, and set the early 70s big cars off nicely. I have a set on my Ninety Eight. "A fat man in dancing shoes" is how one of the Mid Atlantic Chapter guys describes it. The wheels were made for Olds by Motor Wheel Company and are an adaptation of a design they introduced around 1968- the "Exiter" Polycast. It is similar to the SSIV except uses no trim band (polycast material goes all the way to wheel edge) and has a "tower" center instead of the big cast chrome SSIV center. Which an Olds SSI or early-80s Ciera SSIII center cap snaps into like it was made for it! How do I know? I found an NOS set of "Exiter" in 5x4-3/4 pattern at Fall Carlisle last year and decided to put them on my Hurst/Olds. For $10 each, I couldn't have gone wrong even after spendfng about half a day searching thru piles of junkyard center caps to find something that would fit. The Ciera caps with repop SSI Rocket decals look real nice on them. The tire? Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s of course!

I have seen exactly ONE in my life. Kinda doubt it's for sale.

67-70 disc brakes from another B or C body Olds are a bolt-on. 67-8 had the four-piston calipers which are harder to find. All 1970 88/98 had disc brakes. I'm not sure of the interchange across GM lines, but traffic on the Buick forum says there's not much in common before 1971. Post the ? over there and see what they say. A couple Buick guys are really knowledgeable on this sort of thing.

All the Superfly items were aftermarket. Plenty of "carriage companies" built these conversions for dealers, and the Oldsmobile dealer in Lenoir NC was known for selling them. A 1977 "ElToro" Toronado conversion ordered and sold new by Bush Olds showed up on traderonline a few months back. It would be the same as ordering/buying a conversion van, and truth be known some of the van companies were probably the ones building these cars. BTW, me 76 Regency has similar seats in blue velour, and Olds was using that loose-cushion style as early as 72 in Regency and Toronado. So the Electra's jacquard seats could have been pre-empted for Olds versions. Not a true pimpmobile though- no flashy wheels, "diamond in the back" padded top, or huge overrider bumper guards.

Well over half of these I've seen were on 71-75 OLDSMOBILE Delta 88 converts, and at one time I owned 4 of them myself. Made good money off the three I sold, especially considering what I paid that Cad-Olds dealer for the privilege of cleaning out that building. I have seen only two Caprices with the parade boot, and I don't think I've ever seen a Pontiac wearing one. Back to orig ?, if it was made to fit a Cadillac, it should fit the other C-body cars- Electra and Ninety Eight.

I have a 1976 Ninety Eight with the same problem, same door. I tried a slim-jim with no luck. One body shop says they can take the rear door loose at the hinges and pull the door off, but that still isn't going to release the rotary lock so the door will come off the striker. Not too crazy about buggering up the PW wiring and conduit either. My paint is decent, I'd just like the door to open. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> Now that I think of it, an uncle had a 64 Ford wagon that did this on the same door, and a neighbor had a Chrysler do it.

Pertti, the part numbers are different. 63 and 64 are the same, but 61 and 62 both carry different numbers. There's also 2-groove and 3-groove versions depending on whether car has air conditioning (and I think I remember yours does). They will probably slip onto the crankshaft, but may be different in diameter or timing mark location. www.realoldspower.com , there's some guys on there who are VERY knowledgeable on 394. Yours may be rebuildable. www.damperdudes.com is one damper rebuilding service I know of, and I think there are others.

SG- visit www.realoldspower.com . I think you'll find plenty of info about this there. Yes, I'm on there but under a different name.

1973 442 was based on the fastback Cutlass or "S" coupe and wasn't available on Supreme. However, a loaded 455 Supreme is still a very nice car to have. If the History Center ever gets up and running again, they can research the car by the VIN. If you've got a friend in law enforcement or insurance, get them to request a title search and history thru your state DMV. Used to be anyone could request it, but the cop and insurance lobbies pushed it thru nationwide to where they're about the only ones with access to it anymore. Bad move IMHO. I like to know my car's history from the MSO to me.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a 69 442 400 with the close ratio M21 4-speed with a 3:91, and it's undrivable on the expressway due to the high rpm. </div></div> That's because y'all Atlanta folks think 85 is the speed limit, not the road number! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Sorry- couldn't resist! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Several years ago a bunch of us came down from NC for the Peach Blossom BOP and got fouled up at the Moreland trying to get on 285 to Marietta. I had told them to stay in the second from outside right lane and drive with traffic (which is usually 80-85 mph) until they saw my turn signal for the 285W exit. Well, natcherly one guy in a 55 88 didn't do that, and we saw him sailing on down 85 toward downtown as he looked over and saw all of us in the getoff lane. I think he finally got to the Marriott about 8 that night. 'Course, the rest of didn't make much better time. Took us over an hour from 85 to Marietta. We learned- time your Atlanta approach away from rush hour.

Woodgrain plastic wheels were available in 64, 65 and 68. I have yet to see a 64-5 Cutlass with one installed- only factory photos. They're more commonly seen on the big cars, but still rare. The 68 looks very much like a 66-69 Chevrolet wood wheel and is fairly common, but they tend to split. (Same as the 66-67 plastic wheels! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />) Any GM steering wheel will physically mount to any pre-airbag GM steering column, and the aftermarket wheels all have adapters for GM hub and shaft splines. You see nice ones on e-bay all the time- real wood rim, brushed aluminum spokes with teardrop cutouts, and a Rocket horn button.

Tim, click on their username at left of the post. That opens their user profile and you'll see "send a private message" at the bottom. You can usually contact folks using that. 'Course then they have to realise what the flashing envelope means so they can answer you <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />. The profile has a field for e-mail address, but I know people are wary of posting it because of spam and virus bombs. I finally quit posting on 442.com because of it. Every virus attack I ever got came from that site's memberlist.

The major literature vendors will often have them, but I've found most of mine thru old-time Olds service people who have retired and don't want to see the stuff go in the trash. The parts books I have are 1974 edition and 1976 model year supplement. Ebay is a good source for them. The Service Guild was a factory sponsored technician training and excellence program that started around 1951. There was a monthly test that generally covered current year service manual stuff, and the monthly magazine contained updates and service tips on repairing current and past Oldsmobiles. Much of the info in them was found nowhere else in the service publications.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's all about 70's oldsmobiles. </div></div> Unfortunate, but true <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Your easiest solution will be to subframe it with one from a GM X-body (Nova, Omega, Ventura II/Phoenix or Apollo/Skylark, possibly even a 76-79 Cadillac Seville). The Seville or an Omega with 260 or 350 Olds engine will already be set up for Olds engine mounts, and you get the advantage of good steering/suspension and disc brakes. Grab the X-car rear axle too- they're set up for leaf springs and will give more desirable axle ratios than the deep originals. Another idea is to find a later GM car with similar wheelbase and transfer the whole body onto that chassis. And 1971-76 88s and Ninety Eights just happen to have one- 124" for 88, 127" for 98 vs 125" for the 1941. The later tread widths are a couple inches wider than the '41, but everything should fit under the fenders. That way, you have a completely modern chassis. You'll have to make some allowance for the later perimeter frame in the running board area. While I'd certainly rather see a 1941 restored rather than rodded, I like your ideas about keeping an Olds powerplant in it. A streetrod with the ubiquitous Chevy 350 engine is boring as hell and shows no imagination, no matter how well-executed the rest of the car is.

Steele has it, but my newest Fusick catalog 15BC lists it for both coupe and convertible- roofrail, door, quarter and vent window, stationary glass, trunk and all of the door and hood bumpers. Bumper fillers too. Unless it's backordered they should have it all. Rubber parts and scripts are all that's reproduced for these cars. Get ready for a shock when you find or price NOS trim. I'm still missing two pieces of rocker moulding simply because I refuse to pay $350 each for them.

Look on page 7-48 under "Clutch Specifications" which shows V8 55 & 65 styles (Vista Cruiser) and HD clutch use an 11" clutch. The 1965 442 ads mentioned 400 cid engine with heavy-duty clutch. Interesting that you could also get the HD 3-speed trans w/ W29. Parts book lists p/n 3884598 clutch cover/pressure plate for 1965-68 F85 HD or 400 engine. Driven plate is 9779392, 1965-67 F85 V8 Police or Special Duty. 442 comes under these listings. These p/n also apply to 400/425/455 cars on thru 1973 or so and 330 car standard duty p/n are different. So yes, a 442 should have the HD 11.00" clutch. Other items in the 442 package are: boxed rear control arms, HD springs and shocks, sway bars front & rear, 3/8" fuel line, and I think red-line tires were part of the 1965 package. Find a set of 1965 Service Guilds and Dealer Tech Bulletins. There's a lot of stuff about the 442 in those. www.442.com also has info.