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Peter J.Heizmann

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Everything posted by Peter J.Heizmann

  1. earmea...My thoughts are you should at least have the courtesy to post "who gave your daughter such an assignment, what is the assignment's purpose, what is the end goal." There are many learned automobile enthusiasts on this website that would better serve your query with more information. Personally, I look at cars within the hobby, no matter what club affiliation, as simply "old cars", to include mine, and that's it friend. The maintenance of said cars is where the fun enters the equation. Regards, Peter J.
  2. Bob, if I recall accurately, the jargon for remnants of "re-treads" we all see on the highways is "...an alligator at mile marker whatever in the hammer lane". Come to think of it, they do look like alligators. These lazy-hazy days of Summer are getting to me, Wayne. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
  3. Proud of you, Tommy...another good one. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
  4. Bugs...point well taken. Heat disipates naturally. Like you, we are only going by Mr. Barlett's description of the "fire". I have first hand experience of "cast iron" warping while in "steel shot" Wheelabrators simply by the "blast" heat generated. (The Wheelabrators blast the foundry sand off castings.) In answer to your point, and, based upon little detail of Mr. Bartlett, if the fire's heat melted solder on the radiator, I would still check the frame of the car, as Bob suggested, above, for warpage. In a progressive order, aluminum is liquid at 900 degrees, cast iron/ductile iron in my industry is poured around 2600-2675 degrees, steel is usually around 3100 degrees, so... the heat generated into the area of the car's fire certainly dried out the air starting from top-to-bottom. The spokes, obviously old, were more than likely hotter than the daylights at the time of the fire. Dried out even further by the fire than their age, more than likely. Just my observation based on the author's information provided. I remain with my above suggetion, along with Bob's, that, the frame, welds, wooden spokes, brass radiator should be looked at very closely for warpage so Mr. Bartlett does not enter into a project that could be very costly. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
  5. Bob, good points to Mr. Bartlett. Aluminum is poured (liquid) around 900 degrees, so, that tells me it was a "hot" one. As Bob stated, check that frame for warpage, and, while your at it, check any welds. As for the wood spokes, I am only making an assumption based on little fact, that they may not be burnt, but, sure are brittle from the heat. Who knows. Regards, Peter J.
  6. Terry, thank you for the info. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
  7. Howdy, Wayne...thanks for posting the photos. After most meets, there are usually some folks that post, but, so far, not in the AGNM's case. I'm certain someone will get back soon. Regards, Peter J
  8. Hi, folks... Could anyone who attended the AGNM in Cedar Rapids give us the scoop on the show? Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
  9. Hi, Wardy...hope all is well. See, folks, some of the early forum members are still around. Thank you for the offer to find parts, Wardy. I will check my list and e-mail you later today. Nice to hear from you again. Regards, Peter J.
  10. Bill...welcome to the Forum. Just a note of advise for better exposure. Re-post to the "Buy/Sell" category on the main page and the "Buick Club of America" as well. Scroll down on the main page... Regards, Peter J.
  11. Hi, Robbie...Welcome to the Forum. My thoughts are "it is totally up to you". Are your goals to restore it ground up for shows, or, a nice daily driver, and so on. Does not sound like insurmountable problems, unless, there are other major problems you did not list. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
  12. Hi, Rich... I know your question was hashed about over the years. At the top of the Main Page, click on Search When the search screen prompts, fill in the blocks: 1-All Forums 2-Word to Search for: Correct Paint 3-Entire Phrase 4-Date Range: All Posts 5-click on "Search" There was a post titled: 55-Correct Paint on Engine dated 8/24/01, and, others that you can check out. Regards, Peter J.
  13. Centurion (Hi, Brian)... Good post. I put on a set of Coker 185-15 Red Lines on my TR6 2 years ago. No problem, however, your scenario peaked my interest as to "tire dies", "hose dies", and so on, when a VENDOR offers their "wares" as reproductions/original specifications. Why did I reference "VENDOR"?? To me, anyone selling reproduction parts to original specifications is exactly that: A VENDOR. We, within the hobby, are the "FACTORY" in our attempts to keep the vehicles to "FACTORY" specs, thus, the advertisers in the miriad of magazines we read, are the "VENDORS". Related experience: In 1999, I became serious about "FACTORY" detail on my TR6. Ordered a set of heater hose/radiator "CORRECT" hose from the Roadster Factory. (These hoses are ugly, but, correct. Rubber hose with a canvas-feeling, close to grass colored green material.) When the set arrived, I thought "great". Drained/flushed the whole system. Thought, that's it. Done. WRONG!! The rubber composite deteriorated during Winter storage. In the Spring of 2000, I did, what a lot of us do, get the car ready for the Summer. I could not believe it...all the green hoses turned into a dark black color. Called the Roadster Factory. They were honest, and, in all fairness, are an overall good VENDOR. They informed me the hoses are made to FACTORY SPECS in Taiwan, and, they admitted they have a composite problem with Taiwan. Cost without my labor: $90 range. Going for a 1st Junior, stupid me, I orered another set, hoping the problem was resolved...Nope! This time in the Spring of 2001, only 4 hoses turned "Black", but, the rest remained the ugly green. Contacted Rimmer Brothers in England, and, they too, admitted they have a problem with Taiwan. Finally, true to their word and being a good "Overall" VENDOR, the Roadster Factory sent a 3rd set of hoses. Working well ever since. Only problem is I probably spent $300 for all of the above. Where/What/Who generates the rubber composition at "rubber" related products remains my question. Coker, and, probably many other VENDORS, tout, they spent thousands of dollars buying up "original dies" to satisfy your needs. My question: "WHERE ARE THE DIES UTILIZED TO PRODUCE THE PRODUCT AS ADVERTISED???". In this day and age of ISO Certification/QS-9000 Certification of commerical products within this Country and a growing number of Foreign Countries, where do "OUR HOBBY RELATED VENDORS" actually manufacture the product?? Sorry for rambling... Peter J.
  14. sshudgens... Please do not take my comments as cynical, however, if you are asking for the names and addresses of collector car owners, you probably will strike out if the owner is intelligent. I may be misinterpreting your intent here, however, most owners today watch their rear view mirrors very carefully when driving collector cars around, let alone when they they pull into a motel parking lot, or, their home driveway. You may want to post some specifics. Your query/intent is somewhat vague. Regards, Peter J.
  15. Hi, Steve... You can get the Antique tags when you settle in PA. Randy Berger's post was a good one detailing PA's regs. I think someone above mentioned it now costs $90 per car. I paid $65 back in 1997. You have to take photos of the 4 angles of the vehicle and submit them with your registration form. Matt: Dave has an excellent idea about posting a form within one's company. In my plant alone, there are no less than 3 managers that have about 23 cars between them. I'm going to poll them tomorrow for their thoughts. Regards, Peter.
  16. Been there myself, Dave. Would not even think of getting you started as I would do the same. Ames, at the time, looked great in my rear view mirror. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
  17. Dave...thank you for agreeing with my thought pattern above. Matt does, in fact, have a good idea. As for Reading, Pittsburgh, Cincinnati? Heck, you have complained so much about all 3 over the years on the forum, that, I simply take it in stride. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
  18. Hi, Matt... I echo what Dave, Frank, and, others stated about PA's Antique license rules. In 1997, I had Antique plates put on my 1972 TR-6. Why? Back then, my thought pattern was I only put 2-300 miles per year on it. I travel with extensively utilizing a company vehicle, and, I guess, basically to save a few bucks back then. In 1997, the fee was only $65. (Though I do not have to get it inspected yearly, I have it done annually just for safety. The only difference is an inspection sticker does not have to be on the windshield.) Had only 2 experiences with the local police: Both involved police facing me at red lights with, I suppose anxiety at its height to pull me over and see why there was no inspection sticker. Of course, when the light turned green, these 2 guys made immediate U-turns, follow me close, see the antique tag, then, back off. Relative to Dave's case example, there was a guy in the Reading, PA area that could be seen 365 days a year driving a ratty looking old Mercury Comet around. He had antique plates. I pondered how he received them, considering, one must send in photos of all 4 angles of the car, along with the application, as they "state the car must be in restored/good condition", not a rust bucket. I suppose some "who gives a damn government employee" in Harrisburg rubber stamped it. Who knows. As for antique auto insurance...it is clearly stated that the car must adhere to parades, car shows, etc., but, not for daily use. If someone creams the car in the workplace parking lot, it may raise eyebrows of the insurance company. The annual mileage limitation of an antique tag, I really can't remember as I never came close to it, is 2500 Antique/5000 Classic. Don't take that to the bank, but, I think that is what the law states. Dave is also on the mark, that, the police have better things to do, however, you always risk an aggressive cop. Also, you risk someone, maybe a fellow worker, that decides to be a whistle-blower out of jealousy, nothing better to do, or, whatever. The mileage limitations I can accept for the owner's safety if they receive an antique/classic plate just to buck the system, totally forget to have it checked over for safety for, say, 12,000 miles. I guess that's the reason for the rule. Regards, Peter J.
  19. John and Diz... You both exerted a lot of thought and time into your immediate posts above. Good job to both of you for passing it along. Pretty well explains the hobby's scenario and reality as we know it, at least on this forum. Regards, Peter J.
  20. Dave, don't blow another head gasket, bud. Let me elaborate. "If I can see it, the judges can see it" is exactly how I approached my car. Simply put, if I see a ratty looking wire, the judge can see the ratty looking wire." In lieu of having a judging sheet, this method worked very well for me. If you want to read things into my statement, go ahead. My procedure was for advise to use seeing as we cannot access judging sheets, at least today. Have a nice one...Peter. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
  21. nearchocolatetown...you have a good point. I guess we agree to disagree. My post above is how I accept and participate within the purpose and guidelines of the AACA. Take care, Peter.
  22. John...thank you for the details. As for the folks that have not experienced the museum visit, guaranteed, it is a must. Peter.
  23. nearchocolatetown: I've read a miriad of posts on the divulgence of scores issue. I think it is quite simple: "Go over the car with the disciplined attitude that if I can see it, the judges can see it." Worked well for me with absolutely no judging problems. The main point of this rule, in my humble opinion, is all part of the hobby of correct restoration/preservation. For example: "if you attach a "widget" with some left over "wudgets" you have, thinking, heck the judges won't know the difference, then, you should get docked. Don't act surprised, as you knew it going into the show field. To respond to your query "how do you know what to fix" is also a simple answer: "The hobby of it all". The hobby entails meeting friends (the most important aspect of the hobby), study the car's history, investigate, study, communicate on tools, such as this forum, and so on.) That's the hobby in my opinion. The judging of the AACA and other clubs is not different than back when we were in school: If your buddy received an A on a test and you received a B, did you ask him how he did it? If so, he probably told you he studied/worked harder than you. Remember: the AACA's judging purpose/goal is as it came from the manufacturer. Wayne: I believe it is a judgement call of the Northern Neck Region's. Personally, I could not care less if one ego-driven person became upset and, based on this, would not even consider changing the venue due to one or two upset people. On the other hand, I have attended many shows where just showing up is a blast. Take the Duryea Days Show put on by the Pottstown Region & the Boyertown Museum of Historical Vehicles. (2003 show is August 30th.) This show generates roughly 500 cars of all makes and models. It is highly acclaimed in the Eastern PA area for fun for family, car nuts, etc. There are, I believe, just 3 trophies given out, yet, the show grows every year. Regards, Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
  24. Thought I addressed this before. I'll give it another shot... I saw it in "print in the meet schedule" that the corral will be at the Giant Center, the car show "I assume" out front as that is where it was last year, and, the corral could only be staged "within the spaces behind and to the right rear" as that is the only place. That having been said, I have never witnessed the corral being moved on Saturday no matter where it was located. Should this not be satisfactory, in lieu of any officials responding, I suggest you phone National Headquarters. Amen... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
  25. Good points, JT. I compare never recouping time and money in old cars with green fees for golf: "you love the hobby, it costs a lot to do it, and, do not look to get your money back for the enjoyment you had". Regards, Peter J.
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