Coley

A picture would be of great help. My Chevy books show the Group No. 16.330 to be a door lock assembly. The Group No. for a vent wing regulator is # 10.650. The number 3842346 looks like about 1958-60

He couldn't really give us a reason, but it worked.

Need more side view pics.

Might be an automatic trans governor kit.

Lower left - left hand door handle for a 1932/33 Chevy roadster.

Exhaust valve guides can suck oil out of an engine and it won't show on plugs. Once you have the drip fixed, that may help. If not try valve stem seals. Working at a Ford Dealership in the 70s, we had a new Ford truck with a bad oil consumption problem. We ran 30W oil to try to stem the use. A Ford rep told us to use 10W40 and it would stop. We didn't believe him but after 2 oil changes, it stopped using oil.

Possibly 1964 Chevelle

What I have done is go to an art supply store and check out the "POLYMER CLAY" You can mix colors and then make a plaster or urethane mold of the knob needed. Then put the clay knob on the shaft and bake it in an oven for the time required. You can polish them and with some practice make most plastic replacements. It would make a good side-line business with low overhead.

Back in 1964 when I first started to work for a Chevy dealer, I painted cars in the evenings. A 1957 Chevy that I did for a friend was a hand rubbed lacquer paint job, Door jambs and all. The paint was $50. The labor was $475.00. Times have definitley changed.

I was sent a survey from eBay after the del conf ordeal. I listed eveything I thought was wrong with the way they do business. I was not kind about filling out the questions. Know what their reply was?? "Thank you for selling on eBay"

One really bad part about eBay is that they think all sellers are crooks and that all buyers are angels. Neither one is correct. I use delivery confirmation on anything over $ 9.00. eBay has shown that they don't honor del conf . They will give out a refund even though you have proof of delivery. It sucks, but I still sell over $00,000+ yearly, in items I pick up at sales, that I go to at least 3 times a week. Craigslist has done nothing for me in selling parts.

I have been selling on eBay for over 12 years and have had good results with most sales. Recently, I joined eBid. A lot of eBayers are going there as they are fed up with the crap from eBay. eBid Online Auctions - Buy & Sell in our Fee Free Internet Auctions for United States They have a low fifetime membership and a lot of items for sale. The only problem is that not much compares with selling the new auto partys that I make, on eBay. eBid is growing and should do well, if enough people get used to using it. It is worth a looksee.

I used to cast door strikers, hood retainers, hood handles and bumper bolts from a 300 series stainless. One order of parts that I got back from the foundry was made of 400 series stainless. I put them on display at the Belevidere swap meet and we got rained on. Why pickup stainless from a little rain? It will show how good the parts are. Well, when the rain stopped, I had red parts lying in the puddles on my table. When I aske the foundry about it they claimed the added strength or the 400 series was a better product. Told them can't sell parts that will rust. Also, some stainless is atracted to a magnet. Depends on the alloy.

Looks like a universal aftermarket model. Not a specific car production part, especially with the motor-meter mount.

What is also disturbing about our car hobbies is that the older ones are dying off and the next generation isn't quite as CAR-HO as we used to be. Don't know what direction the old car hobby is going to take...

The open space in a clear type filter is under pressure as well. How else would the clear glass show a level at all. The filter would be full with no air showing. or am I missing something??

Thanks for the info. Mine would fit close to the body. Anyone looking for one?

I have one in my shop that my uncle had in his shop service truck. I ring it every so often in his memory. Always makes me feel good.

Here is a side view of the curve..

I bought this nice old luggage trunk at an estate sale that has a "PACKARD MOTOR CAR COMPANY DETROIT" tag on the lower front panel. It has stainless latches (no keys) and stainless braces on all the corners. The hinges are stainless also. The edges are covered with leather. It is 28" wide and 17 3/4" tall. The back side is curved to fit a sedan body.

Thanks for the info. I will put it on eBay to see where it goes.

It says made in USA on it but there is no other name on it. It has a hand choke and chrome lever ets. The paint finish is a black wrinkle finish. The metal tag has the number 2392 on it. The bore is 1 3/8". The mounting bolt pattern is 2 7/8" The mounting holes are slotted a bit.

A photo of the bottom side with and without the stand would help. The name sounds wrong for any Chevy.

Been a while but: Remove the hood and the top cover for the radiator and all braces. Then the hoses and I think the fan blade (might be needed) and lift it up and out.

Those are locking latches for a 1934 Chevy town sedan. Might have been used on some other GMs as well. The 1933 Chevy latches are similar but they don't have locks.